Harry

I'm using the Cen-Tech OBD II & CAN Deluxe Scan Tool. This 37 max read is an issue. So the 2 gauge readers will provide accurate and higher readings? May have to get one of them right away to see where I'm really at. In the mean time, I'm trying to start w/ a reflash of proper code and just see if my issues clear. Really hoping the original MIL status thing just don't return.

Mopar man, I love the Scan Gauge, looking into one of those. As far as Pressure, 14.3 to 14.7 at idle, 37 WOT, and I can't even hitt 37.1. So now it's back to the dealer to see if they can re-flash it back to what my truck calls for. Maybe, when they are done, the original issue will be cleared... (Big Dreamer)

Thanks man, is 37-38 under load or when I'm in it? Is there idle and load numbers I should be looking at, I'm guessing my numbers or over pressure is during max boost?

The flash... I have no idea which scares me. I think I'll see about getting it re-flashed with the right code once I have it passed the smog issue. As far as the boost, I don't have a gauge to monitor it. I'm assuming either the sensor is bad throwing a false high pressure reading, or the waste-gate isn't operating as it should. Is there a simple way to check the Boost pressure. I can run the ODBII scanner live, what setting/sensor am I looking at (if this is know), and what should it be? 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 3rd Gen 5.9 (non-CA model) Banks Cold Air intake

Hey Guys, sorry for the long delay in updates. So I took my truck to the dealership, they ran all the basics and would listen to nothing I had to say about what I'd done so far. Then after about 2 1/2 hours (and removing/testing my check Engine light and cluster), came back and said this makes no since, they were baffled. They said they have no "newer" code for my truck and cannot simply flash the ECM with out newer code than what I am currently running. Another hour later, they come back again and say the have code that's not for my truck but they believe it will work. They flashed it, and still the MIL status ON is showing. According to them, this is normal and I will have to complete a drive cycle to clear it now (I call BS). What ever they saw in "In-Sight", they said has cleared. So now I do have a code kicking, and may be the issue from the beginning, but I'm unsure. Code P0234, "Turbo/Supercharger Over charge". So now I'm thinking I need to replace my waste gate? Any idea here would be greatly appreciated, and maybe the how to if someone's done it before. Oh yea, I removed the Edge programmer and have not re-installed it, nor do I plan to (AH64ID scared my with motor melt down). Anyone selling a Smarty cheap, and which Smarty's best for an 03'? 2003 Dodge Ram non-CA model 3rd Gen 5.9 Banks Cold Air intake

I had already removed the Edge at one point in the beginning, it altered nothing, same issue. I did run by Performance Diesel, a local shop that is well known. I asked them if they have ever heard of this and if they can fix it. The guy laughed, said yes he's heard of it, and my only option to clear it is the dealer. Dodge/Chrysler does not like to share their software, and it's needed to clear this issue. I'll report back as soon as I can get it in. Hopefully they can tell me "why" it happened, and what they do to clear it.

Edge EZD1000C

This model of Edge is the under hood, plug-n-play type. I have to remove a cover and change the jumpers manually to change the program. I have the manual but do not believe there is a way to clear with this Edge model.

Update: Never got anywhere before I went on Vacation and put 1765 miles on my truck while pulling. When I returned, I was hoping a new scan would show an all clear, that's a lot of miles form the system to clear itself. Instead, I finally got something to work with. Note: The Programmer is still in, it is the Edge EZD1000C Stored Codes: None Pending codes: P0514 (device says: "Battery Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance") Freeze Frames: DTCFRZF P0483 (device says: "DTCFRZF Menu", DTC that caused required Freeze Frame data storage) DTC Guide says: Faulty Intake air temperature sensor Faulty Battery temperature sensor Vehicle has recently used a block heater (this is not true, but it was running the fuel heater when the scanner was running)

TRS changed, but no drive time and haven't checked to see if MIL cleared, I will check that tonight. Any thoughts on why the MIL may flash on/off that fast just the once (maybe once a week or or so), but not kick any codes? On a side not: if your oval around your gear choice stops reading or reading accurately, change out the TRS (32-35 bucks, and 2 T-20 screws). But you'll need a pan for the tranny fluid that comes out. And I learned last night, It comes out fast and a lot more than I expected (my face is glad it was only warm).

No update yet, and no change, I haven't had time to make the dealership yet. I'm worried I get the ECM flashed and the issue returns, but with no codes why would it? I do have 2 things I failed to mention, wasn't really thinking of them, maybe some insight on these will provide some answers both ways 1st: the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) has started acting up, seen "reverse" light up at 70 on the freeway, but no codes. 2nd: I have seen the "check Engine light flash on/off (just one time, not flashing), does this every now and then. Never kicks a codes and goes out so fast took a while to figure out which light was doing it. Forgot to mention because the wife had to remind me it was even happening. Any thoughts on these? I do pick up a new TRS on my way home today, so that will be resolved quickly, but been this way for about a month.

I may be headed to the dealer. Turns out the smog tech started w/ a Snap-On, then tried an OTC tester (no name), then a Worldwide unit. It's possible the OTC is the same as the one I'm using, or maybe not. Either way, this is 3 or 4 different brands and defiantly 4 different meters. I'll post my finding and resolve as soon as I have something real to offer.

Mike/Dork, Your right in the eyes of any non-government related item. But the smog machines in CA now link directly to the DMV. Since there is no DMV agent at the smog shops, then only what the vehicle tells them is what they see. Therefore, even though my light is not on, when the system tell the smog machine it is on, that is what the DMV gets. It's a real joke, or isn't in my case. Josh, 2 things; the scanner I use is a cheap one, the smog tech won't buy cheap equipment, so not likely the same brand... but I'll ask for the hell of it. Also, is the MIL or check engine codes stored in the ECM? I ask because I'd hate to have it flashed and it not help in any way. But if it'll clear the MIL, I'm up for taking it in. I'm up for a Check Engine Light, but only if it can be fixed, this ain't right.

Well no luck. Still no Post code, pre code, or freeze frames. I'm not an expert at the scanner i'm using, but when I run a live scan... it shows MIL status ON, while the truck is running, but not illuminated. It is so odd, I'm gonna start asking shop to shop to see if anyone's heard of this before. Maybe the part that checks/clears the MIL has failed to clear, but I bet that is the main CPU I.E. Pretty penny. When I find the cure for this cancer my truck has, I'll let y'all know. In the mean time, keep throwing'em at me. Oh yea, the Programmer is back in, not turned all the way up so it don't smoke unless the foot is on floor, and still not too bad since I still have the OEM lift pump. Also, how many ways is there to reset any and all systems on this truck. Can I reset the ECM, CPU, or any other system to make it start checking all over.

I'll plug the scanner in tonight and see if any codes are showing, or if the MIL is still showing and report back. I know this is an odd one, and why the smog tech (former mechanic) is also baffled. There should not be a MIL error if there is no code.

This should be the case, no light, no issue. But this is not the case. The smog Tech (a friend) has a meter/scanner he checks with before smogging, it shows a MIL error. I have another scanner, it also shows a MIL error. But, there is no codes. I had not checked before removing the programmer, so I can only assume the MIL is because I removed the programmer and had not completed a "Drive Cycle". Then again, I'm not sure and am lots. If this will not clear after completing a drive cycle, then how do I get it to pass with a MIL error. And I don't want to go to the Stealership if I can in any way avoid it. It won't be to my local dealer anyway, they really are mentally handycapped.

I'm located in Bakersfield CA, USA. Of course smogging a truck that was not designed to smog, at least not planned for smogging at the time it was built is the first issue (thank you CA). But yes, it looks like is all working properly, including no check engine light, but yet the scanners are saying it is (MIL). And there is no freeze frames, active codes or stored codes. I'm really hoping it's just the "Drive Cycle" thing. Does anyone know what is expected to complete the drive cycle for the year/model? Maybe I can take it out and try to complete it directly. Every drive cycle I've read up on shows specifics that my driving style may never achieve unless I focus to complete it.

Sorry Guys, bad to miss something like that one. 2003 3/4 ton 4X4 4-door Non-CA version I.E. 50 more horses and no CAT Bank baffle remover/cold air intake Edge under-hood programmer. No other upgrades - no know issues Mopar1973man: there is no codes. Dorkweed: Yes, the truck does not have the light illuminated, but multiple scanners say it is. The light comes on during ignition on, then goes out after start, so it ain't a bulb. ....... I sold the my old truck and my wife's new truck to buy this truck, so she "gets" to drive it until I replace hers. I went ahead and re-installed the programmer, no change (except more power again). All I can guess is that I have not completed a "Drive Cycle" yet. I'm keeping the programmer in the truck and will check it daily to see what items get checked/cleared from the drive cycle list. When they've all cleared, hopefully the MIL will clear too.

Truck due for a smog, so I pulled the programmer out (quick plug in under hood Edge). Runs fine (with a lot less power), no problem codes through odometer check, and no dash lights. When the key is turned on, the systems does the standard dash light check, truck starts, and all lights go out like normal. I have no reason to believe there is any issue at this point. Wife takes truck the to smog shop, they won't run it because it will fail. They plug in an ODB quick check tool and it says my "Check Engine Light" is on. Tried disconnecting the batteries for more than an hour, no help. Borrowed a friend scanner tool, it truly show a MIL issue, but no codes of any type are found. Anyone else ever had an issue like this? Until I get the MIL issues resolved, I can't pass the smog, and my tags have expired (but payed for). Quick thoughts: - should I reconnect the programmer and see if the MIL goes away? - can I pass the emissions test w/ the programmer in, if MIL clears with it, maybe a low setting? For reference; ODBII tool used: "Cen-Tech Deluxe OBDII & CAN Scan Tool"