DunnerCummins24

Yeah that would have been a good idea. What would you recommend as next steps? From what I’ve read online my readings are way high, but from the guy I talked to yesterday he said they’re fine. Should I pull the alternator and send it out? I was going to try driving it this weekend with alternator unplugged and see what happens.

Talked to someone today at a alternator/starter rebuilder spot, and the guy makes wiring harnesses and rebuilds alternators and he said those values are fine but sounds like I have a wiring or ground issue, especially since after I did the WT ground mod it was better for a few weeks then came back. Was saying that sounds like when I did the ground mod I had “touched” whatever the problem was or affected circuit since it did get better for a short amount of time.

Hey guys, been a bit since I last posted. I didn’t drive the truck much over the winter but when I did zero issues. Now it’s warming up outside here and starting to have problems. Drove it last weekend and took me 20 minutes to do a 10 minute drive. Dead pedal and revving up on its own. Sometimes it would dead pedal and id pull over, wait a minute and then the throttle would be back without clearing the codes. It would happen again and sometimes I would restart it and it would start revving high right away at the same high RPM like when I shut it off. Eventually I left the code and kept trying to get where I was going and it surged a bit while I was driving but eventually ended up being okay. I brought my multi meter home from work and checked for AC noise because I’ve been suspect of the alternator. With the truck running right away with lights, radio, defrost heat, grid heaters, etc. I was reading .112-.185 depending if heaters or compressor clutch was cycling. With heat shut off I was reading about .071 and seemed to be coming down as truck ran longer but I usually have problems when I first start driving. From what I’ve read these readings are way to high? Am I looking at a new alternator here? If so what’s the go to? Looking at getting a 170 amp and have looked at nation and mechman. Thanks!

Thanks for the info John! I have the timbo APPS, do you think it would be worth back probing the green wire and adjusting the set screw? I know the previous owner had an issue with the set screw backing itself out but this is an entirely different assembly than what he had when that happened.

Hey John, Thanks for the reply, was away for a bit and then was driving my TDI Jetta, have been driving the truck, the pedal reset seemed to work for a couple days. Then it started acting up again, now that it’s happening on almost every single drive I’m going to check the throttle position on the scanner while it’s doing it. But it seems to be getting worse. It’ll be revving high when I’m trying to come to a stop, doing it at idle or even while cruising it’ll surge up and then come back down. Saturday I fired the truck up and it went straight to 2k RPMs, shut it off and turned it back on and it was fine, kicked up a bit leaving but like before once up to temp it’s USUALLY okay, it has done it the odd time once warm but it’s rare. It’ll throw a code still but won’t dead pedal, it throws a P0222 Idle validation signal code. A weird thing I noticed if I plug my mini scanner in it takes forever to get all the monitors to run, but the CEL just disappears when you plug it into the OBD. No issues with snap on scanner. Is it possible I have an injector issue or oil issue causing it to idle up like it has been?

Hey guys! Thanks again for all the help, truck ran the best it’s ever ran for 3 weeks after the ground mod. Then Friday morning took off for work and coming to a stop at the first stop sign the idle was staying high, kicked up a couple times and kind of just drove through it and really tried to keep it moving and once temp started coming up it ran fine. Ran fine on the way home. Then this morning was leaving to go help with picking up hay, fired the truck up and went inside and heard the idle kick up so ran out and was around 1200 so watched it and kicked back down after 30 seconds or so and then it went up to like 2k so I shut the truck off, fired it back up and just took off. Ran fine all day, picked up 3 loads of high, truck was on and off, drove 2 hours total after to pick something up. Ran great all day. I did check AC volts Friday when I got to the shop and it was fine with the truck warmed up, haven’t checked in the morning. Was thinking maybe when I had the excessive AC noise maybe it did something to ECM, VP or alternator? But why would it be good for 3 weeks and then come back and only happen when cold? Was thinking of installing a high idle to try and get it up to temp quicker but don’t want to bandaid an issue if something else is going on. Thanks again!

Yeah so I did the drivers side 4 wires to the case, then did case to drivers negative. Then did alternator to passenger side positive terminal with 150A fuse inline. It made sense in my head that it would be okay to leave it unplugged, so I went ahead and fired it up, and I’m gonna be honest with my previous readings of .127Vac I did not think this was going to make much of a difference, but I rechecked and .046Vac!! Still higher than some peoples readings but took it for a drive and ZERO issues, truck ran the best it’s ever run since I’ve owned it. Also I’m not liking my fuse setup so I ordered a fuse holder and switched to AMG fuses but I’ll run this for now.

Alright awesome! Any issue leaving it for now and doing it later?

Okay sounds good, tackling the mod right now, as for the new ground going from gear case to drivers battery is it okay if I use 4GA cable compared to the 6GA that’s used? I have brand new 4GA lying around. Also is everyone leaving this connector just open? And leaving the other ground that goes around the air box?

And you just use a stock alternator? This the fuse you’re running? And just ring terminals bolted on both ends?

I’m just about to order the breaker and was looking at a Blue Sea 150A, but was thinking if I do need an alternator is it worth upgrading? Are guys having luck with these upgraded alternators? Just don’t want to get a 150 breaker if i end up getting a 170A alternator. I also read something about using a quadzilla for the high idle?

Yeah no kidding, will be tackling the ground mod this weekend. Only question I’ve got is the AC noise I’m getting at .127 is pretty high, will the ground mod clear that up? Or do I have an alternator issue as well?

Thanks for the reply John! I have gone over a lot of the grounds, battery terminals are good, did those when I dropped two interstates in when I first bought it. I’ve seen that WT mod before but out of laziness never did it, I guess maybe it is time? Was just looking at moparmans write up on it as well. Maybe that’s something I’ll get done. Has anyone on here had luck upgrading alternators to something like the XDP or mechman? Also good call on the idle screw, i will make sure it hasn’t moved.

Hello everyone, New to the forum here, have a 2000 Dodge 24 valve. I’m a mechanic by trade, bought the the truck off one of our customers. He had this issue towards the end of his ownership, truck would surge during idle and the odd time would throw APPS code but he could still drive it. The trucks had a couple different APPS sensors, OEM and aftermarket. When I bought the truck last summer I did a ton of upgrades/maintenance, starter, alternator, 2 new batteries, FASS and sump, fuel pressure gauge and a bunch of other things non related to the problem. I did all the APPS testing between sensor and ECM and everything checked out. After doing the timbo APPS my issues seemed to go away (the alternator change was around this time too). We have a truck bed camper and went on a couple long trips with no issues. I don’t drive it much in the winter but again when I did, no issues. The start of this year also had no issues, and then things slowly started to creep back. I’d be sitting at a stop light and truck would kick up a bit, started becoming more frequent, and now it’s dead pedalling again, I’ll take off for work in the morning, I’ll be trying to come to a stop and RPMS will stay high, then 2 minutes later CEL comes on and no throttle. Takes me a while to get into the system with my scanner, I’ll clear it and I can drive but will either rev real high right away and trip the light or it’ll throw it a minute down the road again. But then if I work through it enough times, and the truck warms up enough I can get going with no issues. I can go somewhere, shut the truck off, go in somewhere and drive all the way home, again no issues. But if the trucks cold or sitting for days it’ll give me issues. I checked for AC noise and am getting 0.127V, is this possibly an alternator gone bad? Like I said I replaced it last year with the timbo and was good for awhile but now a year later dealing with the same problems. Just want to make sure I’m not missing something here. Seems weird to me that it goes away when the truck warms up. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!