RecoilFreak

I have a mildly built '97 auto 4x4 - S300 class turbo (unsure on size - inherited it), three piece exhaust manifold, unknown fuel system mods, tons of tranny mods (Suncoast full manual valve body, Suncoast pressure regulator/overdrive solenoid, all the Suncoast billet parts, triple disk converter,etc) , 5" exhaust, cold air intake, EGT sensor/gauge, tranny temp gauge, boost gauge, etc. I bought this truck this way. I plan on doing some tuning as I am not happy with how it runs. It has better than stock power but tries to stall at cold idle when putting it in gear, only spins to ~2800rpm, and could just run better overall. I have a feeling a previous owner just started throwing parts at it without tuning or considering choice of upgrades to work with each other. I've read a lot about 191 delivery valves and how they are a good upgrade on power. I know delivery valves dictate how much fuel is sent to each cylinder, but what can I expect with each different type? How do I size delivery valves based on other mods (i.e. 191's vs 024's)? I don't know what DV's/injectors/fuel plate/AFC mods are currently in the truck. I have to replace the head gasket, as the previous owner did not stud the head before throwing mods at it, and my cooling system is pressurizing. Since most of the fuel system has to come apart anyway, I plan on ID'ing what is there and modifying things to just make it work better together. Some guidance would be nice. I've been looking for knowledge on delivery valve/injector sizing, but not finding much other than "use our parts". Thanks.

Greetings! I was driving yesterday with my scanner hooked to my truck trying to figure out my lack of overdrive and noticed my TPS was reading 18% with no throttle input at idle. I shut the truck off and mashed the throttle to the floor - 73%. I purchased a new TPS and installed it - same results (now 19% at idle, 73% at max throttle). I followed the procedure by @Cowboy in the tech articles to check all my throttle linkages. Got the front ball set 5" from the bracket upright. I probed the center lead on my tps harness, set the resting voltage dead on at 1.0v. Voltage at full throttle is 3.73v - within spec according to the tech article. It still reads 19% at idle and 73% at max throttle. This is my first diesel. I've been dreaming of owning a 12v for almost 3 decades. I've got tons of experience with gassers, but I'm at a loss with this issue. Can anyone shed some light on this problem? Anything else I can check? I don't think it would be the PCM since it just came back from ACS with a clean bill of health. Original and replacement TPS do the same thing. Please help a diesel noob out. Thanks!

@Mopar1973Man Man, I'm sorry to hear that. Road salt cancer is THE WORST. Not bragging at all, but that's not something I have to worry about in Texas. Given that rust is not a concern and I can modify the setup to center and accurately hold the shaft extension; were you in my shoes, would you use one?

It's pretty easy to modify those pillowblock bearings for three set screws. Like you, I have never liked that design. Seems like the extension on the gearbox should be machined to be a very close fit on the ID of the bearing. Is that not the case? I drove my truck on an actual trip today to pick up a rented piece of equipment. While backing it up to the trailer on a nice concrete parking lot, my steering was obviously working harder than I would like to turn those 35x12.50x18's. I'd like to give it the best chance I can to live as long as possible. I have the capability of machining parts. Maybe I could make it work. The concept seems sound to me. A shaft supported on both sides of a heavy load will be much more robust than one supported only on one side - even by two bearings.

Fixed the charging - replaced the ESS with a new unit (did you know you can't get these from Chrysler/Dodge anymore?). I originally had the gap set at about .057" and the alternator was "kind of" working. I reached my oversized meathooks in there and adjusted to the required .050" and the alternator is now working like a champ, but the tach is still not working. My PCM was just rebuilt by ACS. I assume that is not the problem. Any other hot spots to check? I read that fuse #12 in the dash fuse panel controls several gauges, but all of mine work... except the tach. If you've run into this before or even just read about it before please speak up. Thanks!

Greetings! Just bought a 1997 Ram 2500 12v 4x4 auto. I was told the PCM was bad - turns out it was the wrong PCM (for a '99 and also bad). ACS kept my '99 PCM and sent me a refurbished '97 PCM for an auto. My speedometer now works and my tranny shifts as it should (although O/D is not kicking in - might be TPS?). My alternator is not charging, and my tachometer is not working. Below is a list of info I have collected and troubleshooting steps I have made: PCM rebuilt by ACS (tranny would not shift out of 1st, speedometer, tach, alternator, a/c not working - now tranny shifts and speedometer works) 7.5a fuse installed in W/BS wire from pin 25 connector C3 Replaced alternator with AC Delco 120a unit from Summit Racing Checked wires on back of alternator - 11.7v on white/blue stripe from PCM, ground on other wire Hot lead from back of alternator shows battery voltage ~12v Launch scanner shows TPS at 17% at idle (TPS is bad/needs recalibration?) Launch scanner shows correct RPM (ESS is good? ESS is the only source of RPM, right?) ASD relay replaced with known good relay Checked all fuses and fusible links in engine compartment fuse box Launch scanner shows P0753 and P1765 codes - both tranny focused, shouldn't be related to charging. I am assuming that since my scanner shows RPM while running that the ESS is good. Is there any way to check if it is causing the problem other than replacing it? If the alternator is new, turning while the engine is running, and has 11.7v and ground on the two connections on the rear, shouldn't it be outputting 13.5-14v?

W-T, do you think this fix is applicable to the 94-97 P-pumped 12v's? I had my PCM repaired at Auto Computer Specialists. It's due here in 2 days, and I want to make sure I don't fry it as soon as I plug everything in. Thanks!

Greetings! I know this has been discussed several times here - I have read all that I can find, but didn't find the answer to my question. My ball joints are worn out, and I would like to convert to a T steering setup. I know plenty of guys have said their Y steering is just fine if setup properly with no lift or big/wide tires. I have a lift and big/wide tires. According to what I have read, the newer style T setup will bolt on, but the taper is different in the knuckles and the pitman arm. I have read there is an HD T setup for 98-99 trucks that will bolt in and have the correct taper, but I cannot find a complete setup like has been mentioned here before. Does anyone know what the taper is if I want to ream the holes? What are the options here? I don't want to spend Synergy or Apex money - just stock style parts. The truck came with an upgraded track bar and mount, so that's not necessary. Is the steering gearbox brace worth the money? Thanks.