Sufarry

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Sort of an update here: I found the lift pump wiring pulled out of the backside of the connector... I don't know when that happened.. Maybe when I was reinstalling the harness? I'm going to get a new connector for it. Basically the truck was running like **** because there was NO LIFT PUMP. Hope the little bit of idling I did with it didn't hurt the VP!

Took some time after work today to try to figure out whats going on with the truck.. still no real diagnosis now. I noticed when I start the truck it runs normally for about 7-10 seconds before it starts idling weird and misfiring. Here's a VIDEO of what its doing now. I'm about this 🤏close to just selling it like it sits. I'm frankly tired of working on it and even more tired of spending money. I'm still not getting any codes... no real path to follow now.

The only code is the lift pump code and the oil pressure sensor code for the faulty oil pressure sensor ( the lift pump code has been there for years. I have an in tank factory conversion that i bypassed for my raptor lift pump, so the plug is disconnected causing the code)

UPDATE Got the wiring harness back in the truck! While I was in there, I also did the WT mod: Alternator power wire is now routed to the passenger side battery The ground splice near the VP has been removed, properly soldered, and terminated on the backside of the timing cover case All good on that front. Now the new issue: Fired up the truck and it’s definitely misfiring — both at idle and under throttle No codes thrown (verified with a good scan tool) The only code-related issue is the ABS light, which wasn't on before When I press the pedal to the floor, it’s slow to rev and misfiring badly and smoking. Ran out of daylight to dig deeper, but that’s where things stand for now. On a positive note: When the idle randomly smooths out, the knock disappears and the truck idles great — so I think I’m slowly getting somewhere!

Sure did! Resistance tested and load tested every thing. No issues found. No crushed wires, no cut/damaged anything. The mystery continues!

Small update: Been real busy at work and general life events! Sorry! I got the Tesa tape in the mail today and finally had a minute to re-wrap my harness. I've never worked with this stuff before. It goes on easy and looks so professional, and apparently holds up well under engine heat. Only time will tell if that's actually true though! Look at all that old grimey, brittle and sticky plastic loom. Feels good to get that off of there!

So far I have found nothing! It's not difficult, just time consuming. I have this old power supply that I'm using to help load test the wires! Good to know! Im a cheap *** and prefer to struggle my way through this LOL.

Well, I decided to pull the engine harness. I want to completely strip it down and go through EVERY wire just to eliminate the possibility of it being a harness issue... The amount of man hours I have into this issue is actually insane.

Looks like you're going to win by default, but also this is really a great photo!

I've actually swapped in a know good ECM. It seemingly helped for a few miles and then returned to knocking. I might have a video of before and after the new ECM somewhere come to think of it! It's hard to tell in this video but the knock appeared maybe a mile or two after the "used but pulled from a running truck" ECM. Almost like it relearned this behavior after a few miles. VIDEO

Thank you for the clarification. I'll give that a shot. I'm on my phone now, so this will be a little less wordy reply lol. I checked the tone ring. No missing teeth (except the one thats supposed to be 😅) and it wasn't loose or movable in anyway. I had had my brother in law rotate the engine over while used my inspection camera to verify it's condition. All good from what I could tell.