Sufarry

So far I have found nothing! It's not difficult, just time consuming. I have this old power supply that I'm using to help load test the wires! Good to know! Im a cheap *** and prefer to struggle my way through this LOL.

Well, I decided to pull the engine harness. I want to completely strip it down and go through EVERY wire just to eliminate the possibility of it being a harness issue... The amount of man hours I have into this issue is actually insane.

Looks like you're going to win by default, but also this is really a great photo!

I've actually swapped in a know good ECM. It seemingly helped for a few miles and then returned to knocking. I might have a video of before and after the new ECM somewhere come to think of it! It's hard to tell in this video but the knock appeared maybe a mile or two after the "used but pulled from a running truck" ECM. Almost like it relearned this behavior after a few miles. VIDEO

Thank you for the clarification. I'll give that a shot. I'm on my phone now, so this will be a little less wordy reply lol. I checked the tone ring. No missing teeth (except the one thats supposed to be 😅) and it wasn't loose or movable in anyway. I had had my brother in law rotate the engine over while used my inspection camera to verify it's condition. All good from what I could tell.

Thanks for the reply! It sounds mechanical, but the fact that I can make it go away makes me think its not. If it were, it would be there under all conditions I would believe. "Have you partially blocked the exhaust to see if there is a steady miss when the sound is occurring?" - I'm not sure what you mean by this? Can you explain? "Have you removed the valve cover to see if anything unusual is happening - with or without the engine running?" - I have. Many times. It all seems fine. Nothing appears to change valvetrain wise if I do those procedures with the valve cover off. Not that I can tell. All looks normal. I should add that I have adjusted the valve lash and checked it many times. All within spec. "Can you detect if there is a cylinder miss when the sound is occurring?" - Doesn't appear to be missing. It sounds like over advanced/retarded timing to me. Like the fuel injection is happening too soon or too late causing this sound. It can be heard through the lower end of the rev range, but seemingly smooths out under load, but it's hard to tell. Like I said above, I found ONE other person ( I've been searching for years to find someone that had this issue ) just last week that had the same exact sound as my truck. Even the exhaust note was the same "choppy/stutter" sound. He fixed his by replacing the crankshaft position sensor. I had already done that, but I replaced it again just for giggles. I've Ohm'd out every sensor and sensor wiring on the truck and have yet to find a fault. Having said all of that, the only thing I haven't changed on this truck is the batteries. They are from 2018. I'm going to buy a set of batteries and possibly do the W-T mod as well. I don't suspect any of that will help, but it can't hurt! Well.. It does hurt my wallet!

UPDATE: I ordered a Cummins OEM Crankshaft Position Sensor. I got it installed today. Unfortunately no change. The truck is still behaving the exact same way. So I guess my journey to figure this out continues. I am starting to lose hope again. I think my next step is to buy the Quadzilla tuner again (I had it on the truck before, but it died on me and was out of warranty so I never bought another one) at the recommendation of MoparMan. He says the quadzilla has the ability to data log actual timing and compare it to commanded timing. I'd like to see what changes when I end the kill test (causing the knock to go away). Maybe that will help point me in a new direction.

Hey buddy! I don't know the sizes, but you can likely find another bolt on the truck that will fit it to help you gauge diameter and thread pitch at least. Then take that info to your local hardware store and get the right length!

Hey everyone, I’m excited to announce that I’ve officially taken on the role of Gallery Moderator here at Mopar1973Man! I’ll be working to keep the photo gallery fresh and active by featuring member trucks from all generations! To kick things off, we’re starting a Truck of the Month (TOTM) photo contest! 📸 How to Enter:Post ONE photo of your truck in this thread. All generations are welcome. One submission per member—please do not post multiple photos. Submissions are open now and will close at 11:59PM on 6/30/2025 from the time of this post. 🏆 What You Win:The winner will have their truck featured on the front page of the Mopar1973Man Gallery starting July 1st, 2025. 👥 Not a Member Yet?Join the community! It’s a great place to share your build, ask questions, and learn from fellow diesel/truck enthusiasts. Let’s see those builds—good luck!

Thank you for the opportunity! Happy to be here and be a part of this ever growing community!

I appreciate the phone call as well. Good to chat with someone that actually knows what they're talking about! I hope to update this next week with a solution! This has been an ongoing thing for years now!

Hey! Thank you for the kind words and thank you for replying! I believe you're right. I'm sure disabling the injectors causes it to temporarily not read from sensor data, therefore causing the knocking to go away. I did forget to add that I did check the tone ring - partially. I removed the crank sensor 2 days ago to inspect it again. I took a photo inside of the crank sensor hole and tried to budge it with a flat head. No movement. What I DIDN'T do is rotate the crank around to verify each tooth. I suppose I could do that this evening and see. I would like to think if it was missing a tooth that there would be a CEL for CAM/Crank sync, but who knows! When I get home I'll whip out the inspection camera and see what I see! Thank you again!