cummins24valve

i was just assuming if im going to get a bigger turbo and injectors why not go 150's with a b special? any good recommended brand of injectors that wont brake the bank? i spent 500-600 if i remember on my 275's also have my old stockers which bench tested ok #2 was a little sticky but could have 150 tips put on maybe save some money? - - - Updated - - - Another question I'd like to ask say I was to stick with my stock rv 275s is there a good turbo out there that's best for that set up? I'm really wondering with big sticks and a bigger turbo how much life that's going to take out of the motor? Cajflynn you got over 1,000,000 miles what's your thought on this? My block is also a 53 and my current set up does pretty good hauling 15k no egt problems at all just stay out of over drive on steep hills

so rv 275s arent really enough to get that super b special spooling good enough? will 100-150 horse keep my fuel economy where it is now assuming my foot stays the same hwy im at 24 city 17-18 now also had plans for a pacbrake prxb so should probly get the 4" inline design to support future mods? with 100-150 injectors and a super b special single turbo with a smarty intake and exhaust with a airdog 100 what would be a guess of hp level? also the airdog 100 should be able to support the fuel demand?

well i guess even if i went with the ats 2000 id need a new down pipe so that adds another $150 i'll just keep my eyes peeled for something in the range of an ats 3000? the guy had said he would recommend a 62/65 with my set up and i figured i was working the stock turbo a little to much my boost guage stops at 35 psi and it will peg it so i adjusted my wastegate to keep it around 35 dont want to pull pieces of my turbo from the cac cooler

well just replaced my manifold to a 3 piece stocker was cracked fuel economy is awesome 17-18 in town hand calc 24 fwy at 60 im running a smarty tuner with rv275 injectors S&B air intake and 4" exhaust with an airdog 100 ive got a chance to pick up an aurora 2000 for $500 my truck is a 1998 24 valve auto wondering is this worth buying and upgrading? currently my boost is at about 35 i dont plan on making over 450 hp as i tow heavy 15k and want a reliable motor that will run 500k+ miles so should i keep my stock turbo or upgrade? the stock turbo clears up my exhaust very well and my temps range about 900 while towing at 30 psi of boost and last of all any power gain with this new turbo? any mpg gain? i greatly appreciate everyones input on this hands down this site has been the most helpful with my cummins

I think I better stop complaining then last fill up smarty on level 1 hand calc 17 mpg 2nd with towing 6,500 for 30 miles of the tank yielded 16.8 hand calc did a run to Seattle to pick up a new fridge I'm guessing I was in the range of 24 mpg heading up there smarty on level 1 timing on 3 on the way back I didn't do so well according to the scanguage avg was 18mpg so combined run there and back just shy of 21mpg the fridge was standing up right so it made for a fantastic wind sail price you gotta pay unless you wanna lay it down and wait 12 hours for the freon to settle my truck is also 2wd drive auto so the guys who have 4x4 sit a bit higher catch a little more wind however i do have a 300 lb front bumper and 90 gallon transfer tank - - - Updated - - - Also made sure to stay set at 60 for cruise unless I got frustrated with Seattle drivers had a few 65-70 speed ups

I'd like to get about 18 around town and 22hwy i did a run to the coast towing my little aluminum boat 500lbs and got 18mpg granted the roads are windy and has a few mountain passes I was going 50-60 mph I've often wondered would I benefit setting the smarty at level 1 and timing at 4? Last time I did that without the iat fooler didn't gain any mpg however my truck weighs in at about 8k I've got a 80 gallon transfer tank and big tool box with a buckstop bumper on the front also live in Portland,or so x2 on

alignment is dead on just spent darn near 2k on the front new shocks borg warner steering box a new steering bar helps frame flex new ball joints new ceramic front brake pads this truck is my DD so i try to take good care of her

i could see a gain with city and having a manual but cant imagine gaining much on the hwy as the tq converter is locked up just like a manual? i use to have a zf5 speed in a 7.3 powerjoke and driving that truck around town got old real fast super stiff clutch to push down even after a new clutch don't know how the dodges are never driven a dodge stick but if its anything like the fords i guess i'll suffer with the 2 mpg loss im a tree climber so already killing my knees day by day and the stick only made it worse

mileage seemed about the same with the PO had a set of toyo highway tires really smooth tread design my iat fooler is set off of your idea 143* and to answer other question the truck had a bad lift pump when I bought it so I had the airdog 100gph its less than 30k miles old installed with gauges the gloshift gauges are junk but according to a shop im at 18-19 idle and under load of about 1,500 rpm (in drive foot on gas and brake) down to 14 psi i also drive 50-60 on the freeways never over unless on a road trip so either my vp 44 is damaged due to the PO running it with 9 psi for who knows how long or my auto trans being bone stock is the problem i imagine a low stall converter upgraded valve body would go a long ways but the trans is not ready to quit yet

Hey guys, new to the forum. I have a '98 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 5.9L 24valve automatic 2 wheel drive 3:55 rear axle ratio. I have done literally everything I could possibly do to my truck to improve the mpg. Yet, I cannot seem to get anything over 15-16 mpg in the city and hwy can vary from 16-22 mpg. Current mods are afe cold air intake, airdog 100gph pump, rv275 injectors, smarty tuner, 4" straight exhaust, IAT fooler, scanguage 2, tires are toyo m-55 245-75-16 filled to 80 psi. The truck would get 15 mpg city/hwy bone stock with a 3" exhaust however when the fuel pressure was tested I was told that it was at 9psi at idle. I'm wondering if its done damage to the already weak vp44 I seem to see other 4x4 trucks getting 18 mpg city as for me doesn't matter what smarty setting I am on or how much timing I give it if I really baby the heck out of it I can maybe manage to pull 16 possibly 17 city hwy mix. I'm planning on changing my diff oil to amsoil 75-90 same weight as I have in there now just hoping the amsoil will help also running 5-30 amsoil in the motor with a bypass. What could be causing the mileage to be so low? Truck shows no signs of starving for fuel I have the airdog set at 18psi now but if damage has already been done not knowing how long its been running 9psi from the PO is there any test I can do without having to pull the whole pump out?