Lone Watie

I installed the switch with the pig tail and that works out pretty well, that way I have it for priming and in case I lose a belt. It wasn't too difficult to do, just ran a couple wires and put a switch in the cab. I don't use the pressure switch at all for my setup, I just directly wired the pigtail to my switch. The pressure switch is there but not wired up. One of these days I'll pull it out of the fuel line and run a straight hose up to the filter. Maybe when I install my new filter setup next week.

I need some help identifying the electrical connectors on this fuel filter head I got from ebay. It accepts a fleetguard FS 19596 7 Micron fuel filter with the water separator at the bottom and and electrical connection at the bottom. As can be seen from the pics, the filter head has a connector on the side, and 2 plugs, which are tied in together. The FS 19596 filter, as can be seen, has a connector on the bottom. I am looking for 2 things: 1. What type of connectors are these, as I plan on getting the correct mating partner for each (i.e. are they deutsch, multi lock, etc) 2. What are the connectors used for. I know the one connector on the side is definitely for the fuel heater. The writing on the side does say delphi. - - - Updated - - - I think I figured out part of what I needed to know. The connectors are Delphi Metri-pack 280 series I believe. The connector with the green seal plugs back into the filter head, and the connector with the blue wire support on the end plugs into the truck (will need a mate for it). Anyway, talking with a buddy at work and we deduced that the wire harness is for the heater (as I knew) and a temperature sensor. What I need to figure out now is how to determine which wire is the hot wire. The factory heater connection has a black and a red going into the stock filter head, so I need to figure out which side of the delphi connector the red or black goes to. Any tips on chasing sparks on that to determine which is which would be great. Also, is there a way to determine wire gauge by just measuring the diameter of the insulation? Thanks.

Great, thanks for the info on that, it helps a lot.

Another quick question, which filters better, my mind is a little slower this morning: 2, 7, or 10 microns. In other words, the higher the micron the better the filtration, or do I have it backwards?

Looking like the verdict is fuel heater not needed. Time to start fabricating a new filter system in the stock location. Shouldn't be too hard. Thanks for the replies. - - - Updated - - - What is the difference between a basic fuel filter and a fuel/water separator filter like on the FASS or AirDog? I see that GDP's kit uses the Fleetguard FS1001 which is listed as a fuel/water separator. I'm sure it's apples/apples but wanted to check.

Do I need a fuel heater? If not, I can do the kit without the heater for $209 from Glacier. I'm just curious how important is the fuel heater. I could fabricate a bracket no problem with some left over T6061 aluminum I have laying around, and attach a filter base to it, but that doesn't solve the WIF sensor issue or the heater question. Rich's kit above basically looks like an attached heater/WIF sensor to a base with its own spin on threads for the fleetguard filter.

My filter canister is leaking, and am going to replace the o-ring in the heater element hoping that will fix it. But, if that's not it, I'm afraid the canister might be cracked at the very top on the aft side. So my question is, how important is the fuel heater? My choices for getting rid of the stock canister are the $360 kit from Rich at Glacier Diesel, which includes the fuel heater and WIF sensor, the non-heated version of that kit for $209, or the non-heated spin-on kit from Glacier for $150. I'm just looking for advice on the need for a fuel heater. I do live in Northern AZ, and it does get rather cold here in the winter. Thanks for the advice in advance. I like the heated version kit from Glacier, but I don't need the big line kit that comes with it, as I already have that installed from my stock filter to the VP. Here's some links: http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=MK109852-BLKH $359 kit http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=MK109852-BLK $209 kit (same as above minus heater http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=FS1253-K $149 spin-on kit no heater I do know that Geno's has the same kit as Glacier for $130, but would like to give Rich my business as he's a standup guy to deal with.

I didn't get any kind of adjustment tool with mine. But, it's all good now. No sound, no fury.

The belt is not supposed to be too tight, as that will cause the pump bearing to fail prematurely. But, I'm guessing it did stretch out a bit after my initial installation, and I should have adjusted it a tad. It is not supposed to be treated as a fan belt, per se, as far as tautness.

A few days ago I posted that I was hearing a 'rumbling' sound coming from my truck after starting off slowly, after the first start in the morning. A buddy of mine walked beside the truck the other morning when I left from work, and told me it was coming from the front of the engine compartment. I had already determined that the wheels, bearings, brakes were normal. I looked at the belt on my fuel boss, and it was very loose (the instructions for the fuel boss state not to have it too tight). Anyway, it was loose to the point where I could almost slip it off the pulleys. I got to thinking that maybe in the morning when the belt is stiff, it might be jumping the cogs on the pulley until it became more pliable, and might be making that sound. I tightened the belt up slightly, and sure enough my sound has gone away. Apparently, it was jumping the cogs enough to where the pulley was just barely grabbling the belt, and emitting my phantom noise. It was mere coincidence that the sound appeared after I had changed my crankshaft position sensor and had the starter out. Just wanted to pass this along in case anyone with these mechanical pumps ever hears a weird noise and has some trouble identifying it.

Bearings and brakes are okay. Friend at work listened as I got going this morning and heard the noise coming from the front of the engine compartment. I'm leaning towards my belt slipping on the cogs of the fuel boss mechanical pump. I'll check the tension later. I'll keep you posted.

I will check that stuff out, but my concern is that this noise started only after I replaced my crankshaft position sensor a couple weeks back, and had to remove/reinstall the starter.

Possible on the bearings, but just replaced those couple months ago, and they've been fine. Plus, it only does this when the truck is cold. If I went out right now and drove slowly forward with the truck warmed up, I won't hear it.

No one has any thoughts on this? I'm really baffled with it. Thanks.

This will be a little difficult to describe. When I first get the truck rolling in the morning, I'm hearing a rubbing sound which sounds somewhat rotational, in that it is not constant. It seems to be coming left front. It started a few weeks ago after I changed my crankshaft position sensor, where the only thing I had done was remove the started and reinstall. I have not lifted front end up yet to check wheels, but this noise stops after a few hundred feet, and seems to be only when the truck is not warmed up. If you have any tips please let me know so I can start checking into some things. The starter is brand new rebuild as of yesterday (warrantied one went out yesterday), and it's in there securely.Here's a little history:1. In Feb of this year I changed my starter2. Back in end of July, I replaced my crankshaft position sensor, and had to remove starter again3. This past weekend my starter went out at the store (had her towed home to fix)This sound is not so much a rubbing but a rumbling sound and like I said, it's not continuous but like there's one spot it's rubbing as I roll and then it stops (I think) after a few hundred feet, and doesn't do it again until the truck is cooled off. I was concerned it was the starter mechanism not retracting fully and rubbing the flywheel, and then retracting, but with having to replace a starter (which may have just been an auto zone dud) again this past weekend made me focus on the starter. I'll have to lift the front up a bit to roll the wheels around to check out if it's coming from the wheels to rule that out, but as I mentioned this all started when I replaced the crank sensor a few weeks ago. Any ideas?

The CKP on my truck (as far as I know) is the original, so here's to hoping it is just its time to go. I ordered one from Napa for $48, but got one from O'Reilly's for $78, so kind of just going to sit on it until my napa comes in, and change it out on Friday (next day off), to save a few bucks, and I'll return the O'Reilly's sensor. I need to chill out today anyway. I've been gone almost a week and really don't feel like pulling the starter motor today, that is assuming I need to pull the starter to get to the sensor, is this correct? - - - Updated - - - Put the new sensor on a little while ago. Codes cleared and all seems okay. Hoping that was the problem. Damn, that top starter bolt is a pain to get at, especially with my fuel boss fuel lines in there. It was weird, though, I went to drive it up onto my ramps and it barely had enough power to get up on them, I guess the engine was in a limp mode due to the sensor, does that make any sense? Anyway, all is well for now.

Sounds promising on the sensor. Glad to hear of some success stories, vs. the alternatives of ECMs and FPCMs and (ahhh!) VP44s. I'll keep my fingers crossed. She's been running fine other than that since I put the fuel boss on, and even before the fuel boss.

I'm hoping that's all it is. I picked one up at O'Reilly's few minutes ago, but will have to tackle that in the morning. We'll see.

Threw P1690 and P0336 last Sunday night before I went away for a few days (not in the truck). I just started combing the threads and Mike's articles, but haven't done any actual troubleshooting yet. Just wanted to open up a thread in case I need some pointers if I can't find in the other threads and articles. Basic symptoms at time of occurrence, though, were the tach started jumping around and then was running rough. I had seen my tach rough idling the few days preceding the codes. When the codes appeared, I was less than a mile from home, and turned around and got her home with no issues. Just got back today from a little time off and the truck did start, and the codes are still there, even after having cleared. They reappear immediately, and idle is still rough. Will keep you posted here on my progress. Mine is 1999, so it's a CKP not a cam sensor, fyi.

I bought a heavy duty puller at a pawn shop which does the trick, but with those bolts in place, that bearing is gonna come apart when you pull on the assembly. With the bolts out, the puller pulls the whole unit out as the rotors are behind the bearing/hub.

I changed my rotors and hubs yesterday; I was metal on metal on the right. Anyway, it took me most of the day, and by the time I got to the driver's side, I forgot to take out the hub bolts and proceeded to pull the hub/rotor assembly off, and pulled the bearing apart. Good thing I had a new bearing to stick on there anyway.Finished it up this afternoon, and it's nice not hearing that scraping sound anymore and no more pulsating stops coming from warped rotors.

I see. I haven't been back there yet. Keep us posted.

Are you talking the fuse or actual connector on the back of the instrument panel? I'm not sure what pin you're looking for. There's several wires coming from the junction block (fuse panel in the cab) that go to different lights. Not sure if these diagrams help; they're from 99 FSM.[ATTACH]5651[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5650[/ATTACH] Instrument Cluster_1.pdf Instrument Cluster_2.pdf

Tap-a-fuse into the hot side of a switched fuse on the fuse panel, w/s wiper for example. Connect that lead to the red on the power outlet, black to ground.Use 12v circuit tester to identify the hot side of the fuse you'll tap into. The tap a fuse might just be the male part of a spade terminal, so you may need some wire with a female spade terminal to reach the red lead on the outlet. I think I'm using 16ga wire.

Good idea on the amazon. I couldn't wait so paid couple bucks more.