Lone Watie

I like ISX's way, thanks...

My SGII speed, if I set it at 5 results in less miles driven than my GPS odemeter, and if 6, then more than GPS odometer. Can't seem to get the miles driven to agree with GPS. I find myself changing the speed about a 1/2 way through tank to get miles to agree, so I can see the potential for error, but it's pretty close.Was your 25.3 done at 55? If not what speed did you average for that mileage. I don't know how much longer I can tolerate 55 on the interstate, it's eating into my time, also, have to leave for work 15 minutes earlier than before.

Are the intake air heater gaskets reusable? Just checking before I open them up and get stuck up the creek. Thanks. Also, any tips/how to's on checking the relays?

I forgot about the link on your web site for OBDII, and quickly pulled that description for a 1291 off a google search. Anyway, I'll check that stuff out as you suggested. I think something may have got wet today. I cleaned the bottom of engine and tranny with some degreaser and was spraying a lot of water from the bottom up, so maybe got something wet. I'm pretty sure the grids are working, as I see the usual voltage drop in the morning when they're cycling, but I'll check all that stuff out anyway. Thanks.

Every now and then I throw a P1291 - No Temperature Rise Seen From Intake Air Heaters like this evening on way to work, only on start up. I usually just reset the CEL and go on my way, but curious if anyone has experience with this code, or what I could check. I'm guessing the intake grid heaters, but they seem to work okay, voltage draw when cold, , wait to start, etc. Thanks.

Well, at risk of being run down by truckers for past tank of fuel, I tolerated 55 mph to/from work (60 miles each way, altitude gain/loss 2000 feet from Flagstaff to Winslow and back), and resulted in 25.68 mpg hand calculated. Scan Gauge II was giving me 26.4.

Do you think having port on cooler end of the line will make that much of a difference? We're only talking about a little over a foot, and I can't see temp dropping that much in that short of distance. Just curious. I guess if doing heavy towing, maybe the small drop in temp from the short difference might be critical - just thinking out loud.

Thanks for suggestions. How about that tranny line in my post, anyone using it, or something similar. From what I've read, I don't want to tap the pan, but want the hot line to the cooler, and to keep the probe out of the mainstream of the fluid flow. Thanks again.

Getting ready to order boost/tranny temp/EGT gauges soon. From what I've read, I need 0-1600 EGT, but not sure range of boost gauge. Is 60 PSI boost good enough? Also, anyone running the tranny cooler line from dieselmanor which is already t-fitted for a sender? http://www.dieselmanor.com/dm_products/DM-CLG2.asp

I was going to finish this file before I uploaded for all here, but it seems to be a good time to upload what I have for now. I've been working on putting together info on electrical system in a more-or-less user friendly format. Junction Block_Fuse Data.xls

When I first installed my gauge and turned key to on (no start) my gauge would briefly go to 5-7 PSI for the prime prior to normal start. I had to close my needle valve a bit to control some gauge needle jumping and noticed that for the key on/no start prime I now just get a quick movement up to maybe 2 psi, should I be worried about this? Running pressure are above minimums at idle and driving. Thanks.

Will do. I just know myself, and if'n I don't get stuff under control from the get go, I'll have wires going everywhere, and as already demonstrated to myself, chasing wires is not fun.

Will this work to take the fuel line off the top of the tank? http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/sku/images/large/I_362315_CL_1.jpg

In an air dog install, does the factory return line from the VP stay in place, if so, how does the return line for the air dog from the pump affect the factory return line at the tank? Thanks.

I'm actually going to install one of the painless kits for 4 ign/3 constant, but was just curious about the factory panel. I guess that one's best left untouched.

Is it possible to get to the back side (just curious, don't want to do anything to it) of the in cab fuse box without too much hassle? I've had the lower leg protector under steering wheel off with its 3 screws, but don't see easy way to get the next piece of plastic off? Is the next piece of plastic all one piece across the lower dash, i.e. will I have to mess with air bag electronics to go deeper into the lower dash, or upper for that matter (for when I go with the dash top 3 pod gauge mount, which I like better than a-pillar. Thanks a bunch.

Also, I think you answered already, but when running through stock filter housing, are you using a stock filter there, or just the canister alone for fuel heating?What are advantages between air dog and air dog II?

Any possible way you could sketch up a quick flow diagram of how you have your air dog plumbed with the stock filter including the return line? Thanks, I can't seem to find the answer, but is the air dog output pressure internally regulated, or can you adjust it like the raptor pump?

My next goal is 25, but at what expense? 50 on the interstate? I'm already probably not making too many friends here in N. AZ with the truckers on I-40 bearing down on me before they realize there's an old lady driving a cummins. Probably will have to let the bug fester in me and start doing other things to achieve 25. I don't mind 55-65, it actually makes my drive to work more pleasant as I don't have to worry about constantly switching lanes to pass people like me, and the fact I'm saving significant bucks is icing on the cake. Question, without doing anything else other than what I've already done, and without stomping on it, will I gain much with BHAF with mpg, or is my stock set up sufficient flow for my OL style of driving? Thanks, I know this subject been discussed elsewhere, but forgot the answers.

Well, I'm on my way now, got the bug. Couldn't wait any longer and installed my 3/8 vulcan line from FF to VP this afternoon. Moved my FP gauge down to the tapped fitting for the VP inlet. Re-primed the entire system (running isolator with little to no loss tested against a test gauge). Still running around 14-14.5 at idle, so thinking that lift pump not quite where it should be, but primes (key-bump) at a higher PSI than before I changed out the line, so thinking that opening that line up a bit helped out (positive thinking). Stuck now on next move, been reading past couple hours on airdog v. fass, etc (again, don't want to stir up a debate, as I understand it all will boil down to personal preference), or raptor v. fass hpfp, we'll see. Stuck my head up under the truck today and got a decent look at the fuel tank top, and think I can do this no problem without dropping or moving anything once I decide on which system to go with. I appreciate all the insight and suggestions here, and look forward to keeping you all posted on my next move. I did drop another 150 or so today with Geno's on some nice to have things like drain plugs, etc. Question, can I expect a bigger PSI difference if I just moved the OEM pump back to the frame rail, or will it just be a matter of it being easier on the pump because it's pushing not sucking? Also, I was reading elsewhere here of running air dog with factory filter still in place for fuel heating, will that head loss of fuel moving through 3 filters v. the airdog's 2 before the VP affect the overall pressure too much, or is the regulated pressure of the air dog sufficient to overcome this head loss? The good thing with all this is I'm no longer a virgin in the ways of messing with my fuel system and getting air out of it. I remember when truck was new, and original VP went out due to incorrect fuel gauge and fuel starvation, that first time I changed out the filter how long it took to get started again made me really worry that I was hurting something. Now I can get it back up and running with a few bumps and turns of the wrench in no time. By the way, pulled 23.4 out of last tank of fuel, hand calculated compared against the SGII, and includes 2500 feet of elevation drop/gain for my round trip to work. Been really grandmothering the thing though to achieve that, i.e. 55-65 depending on the gradient. I calculated last night a savings of around 150 bucks a month v. 15-16 mpg at 82 mph which is where I was 6 weeks ago which equals more goodies for the truck.

Anytime, the way I look at all this, passing this info around helps us save money, which lets us buy more tools and toys, so we can fix more things, and save even more money, then buy bigger tools and toys........well, you get the picture. It all became clear to me after I fixed it yesterday. When I had the problem, I thought, why do my lights come on without rhyme/reason, and even worse, why did my alarm go off couple weeks ago in Best Buy parking lot, now makes sense, because even though my door was shut, the contact with the switch was not enough, and the alarm went off, of course after I was already inside store. Funny thing is, I don't know how long it was honking, as we were inside for better part of an hour, which I guess is pay back for all those times when I lived in townhouse complex and someone's alarm would go off in middle of night for 30 minutes.

If I used JP Weld, then I couldn't brag that I had my truck held together with duct tape... Honestly, didn't think about using something to fill in the dimple, it will definitely be more 'permanent' than the tape. Thanks for the tip.

A few days ago I posted a thread seeking assistance on a wiring issue with my mech gauge. The dome/courtesy lights were intermittently illuminating, and the key in ignition alarm was sounding when engine off with door closed, and ignition off. While troubleshooting today, I needed to stick my head up under the dash to look for loose grounds, etc. Well, in order for the lights to be off, and to make it more comfortable, I closed the door so I could put my feet up on seat and put my head under the dash.Anyway, when I shut the door, the lights went out as they should (ignition on/engine off) and then immediately illuminated again. I thought that's weird, so I pulled on the door and they went out, let the pressure off the door and on they came again. Yep, door ajar switch not making contact completely, but it wasn't the switch. It was the metal of the door. Throughout life of truck the plastic tip of the switch gradually wore a little dimple in the metal of the door. A little 100 MPH tape (fancy military duct tape) to fill in the dimple and a little more between switch back the body for insurance, and it seems I'm back in business. All this time I thought I had wired my light for the gauge wrong and goofed up the CTM. We'll see tonight on way to work.

Good info - now for the next question: If my pressure valve on the return line doesn't open until 14 PSI, but I'm rolling down the road with 13 PSI, what happens to the fuel in the VP which isn't used by the injectors, but does not return back to the tank because the valve is not open? I'm still learning this system, so please bear with my questions. Thanks. In response to AH64, I thought the whole idea was to measure pressure on clean side to give you a clean pressure reading with a clean filter, and when you see a pressure drop (in my case, filter is clean - just changed it couple weeks ago), the first culprit to check would be the filter before suspecting the lift pump. All the recommendations I've read stated to tap the pressure on the clean side, maybe I didn't understand your response, so just seeking further clarification - thanks again.

So, in other words the pressure through the big line from filter to vp will go'backward' to give me correct pressure... thanks.