onealrj

This is both (front and rear) extruded aluminum bumpers (with energy absorbers) from a 1980 checker cab bolted together. Still needs some diamond plate on the top and sides.

Yes, also dissimilar metal corrosion by the minerals accumulating in the bottom of the slowest moving and coolest areas? I once witnessed the large aluminum fuel tank of a boat that was ruined by a penny that someone had dropped into it several years prior. It made a perfectly clean penny sized divot (with engravings visible) in the bottom of the tank. It sure would be nice if there was block drains like the older V8's used to have. Again, several good cooling system guidelines. Periodic thorough flushing with thermostat temporarily removed Completely drain flush fluid Refill with 50/50 mix of distilled water and appropriate coolant only

Wow! Thanks for all of the info! Cleaning out the oil was to be my next question, thanks. I'm sure it would be wise to pressure test the transmission cooler (on the coolant side) after getting this all corrected as well. Will do on the coolant changes, I am holding hope that once I get it off the truck I will see signs indicating oil bleeding past a hastily installed RTV seal.

Recently bought my 2nd 97 12v. Currently has a long warmup cycle 20 miles + and was going to replace the thermostat (with a big block per Michaels suggestion) Turns out I have a small amount of oil in my coolant :sad4:. both the thermostat and oil cooler have formagasket and the heater core was recently replaced. I am suspecting that the oil cooler was recently checked or replaced and perhaps the form in place gasket is not so good. Question is what year make and model thermostat do you suggest? Secondly does the oil cooler break down and leak with age like the heater core? I do not seem to have coolant in the oil and am hoping it's a problem that replacing the gaskets on the oil cooler will fix. Hopefully not a blown HG. Any suggestions welcome.ThanksRich