AGPTurbo

Back of rad is clean, first think I looked at before buying- puke bottle is wet but not destroyed. I wonder If I should to a T-stat just to be proactive. The gauge will fall some on a normal temp day, but that day was like 9 above F, normally once its warmed up it stays there. I would say by only 3 drives to work it usually is leveled off as I'm parking. That's a 10 mile commute with 8 being highway. Thanks AP

Gentlemen, I have done a few searches and I just want to be sure: That these Cummins engines are the coolest running motors around. I have driven this truck about 500 miles since owning it and I have learned it takes forever to warm up, and when it does, a red light will knock the gauge back down to lower normal. I think its great, and though the wife wants the heat on full blast in June, once the truck warms up to mid gauge, the heat is HOT HOT HOT! I already made some homemade winter fronts to fit in the grille with some custom cut black acrylic sheet, so I'm asking- This is normal or no? AP

I have a replacement pump, block mount but horizontal, looks like an Airtex style but who knows. AP

MoparDave, just did mine yesterday. Moog p/n 245, only on the transfer case end, the axle side is a different joint. The double joint is no big deal, nothing will fall out, add some grease if it looks dry. Just be sure to mark with chalk the yolks that line up just in case. I did mine in a vise, put a socket to catch on one end and used a nut to push on the other, cranked the vise and when it got tight, struck the vise with a bfh to shock it, then repeated till done. I did look for a grease-able unit, but it was fruitless. Either way the first one lasted 103K. Good Luck AP

Hey bud, I'm new to the Cummins thing here but what you need is some basic troubleshooting. Take apart the plug you see, its a basic 12v system no matter what the plug. Put one end of the test lamp/ multimeter into one side and the other into the opposite side. You should get 11+ volts if the truck is off. Try with the key in the start position, but don't run it while you are under it. If you don't get the voltage, test one side of the lead at a time with the other end of your test equipment to a good ground. Still no power? Make a jumper to bypass whatever relay someone has in there by getting a good length of insulated wire and jump power straight from the battery to the pump. At least get this far so the guys with similar equipment can walk you through. Good Luck AP

OK, no CAD on my truck (4/02 Build date). So the front drive-shaft spins all the time, 2wd or 4wd, hence the blown u-joint. Strange they made no provision for disconnecting the axles after the CAD. That would have been a 1-2 highway mpg improvement I'm sure, though I'm not sure I would have wanted the CAD anyway. AP

I'm going to have to investigate the setup on mine, but just from the wear on the u-joint, I'm sure it spin all of the time. Also to get at those bolts on the drive flange, I had to put the t-case in neutral to spin it. (BTW- Moog P/N 254 for the CV style front driveshaft joints, case side only) AP

hex0rz, for me the isolator is not redundant. I did not want any chance of diesel fuel spraying into the cab if there is a gauge or line failure. And from what I read the snubber is to reduce the hammering effect of the lift pump, a totally different purpose than the iso.

Yeah I know, Guess I'll start saving lol

Thanks Wild, I cant believe it wasnt squealing on the 300 mile ride home from purchasing the truck. The bearing caps were cracked from being beat up from the u-joint stem. I appreciate all of the replies AP

Well, just got back from a test run. A little highway, back road and some red lights. Looks like after it settled down, I'm getting 15-16 idle, 10 freeway, 5 if I mash it hard. So far, it looks like I'll pocket the 500 for an Airdog/Fass and carry a spare whatever-brand-stock-style-pump this is. I'm expecting the paperwork from the dealer in a week or so, and he has the previous owners receipts for the pump replacements (VP and Lift) that were done on it in May 2013. So the fact I'm getting OK pressure is most likely due to the fact that the pump is 7 months old. I'm glad I did the FP gauge first, and Geno's parts were a good fit and quality if anyone is looking. AP

OK, brake caliper repaired! I thought the weak brakes were just part of the dodge design! Way better now that they are bled, must have been a lot of air that worked back into the line. Also did the front output seal in the t-case and found a u joint on the CV end that was ready to fall apart. This transfer case spins the front shaft all of the time right? AP

Ok guys, got the new FP gauge installed with a snubber and fuel to antifreeze gauge isolator, looks like 17lbs of fuel at idle, need to take it for a test run still. This thing is a beast compared to my 5.4 gasser f250!

Thanks for the reply. I actually have a K&N OIL FILTER! I need to take it off right away obviously. I actually only want the edge for the gauges. Even at $800 its still cheaper than buying all of the other ones as I go, also, I'm not a huge fan of the gauges all over the cab and A-pillar. The auto trans shifts great, no problems, locks up and doesn't hunt at all. I read about the 2 cycle oil, and thought something like Howes Lubricator may be better for the anti-gel properties it adds. AP

Hi guys, Just picked up a Flame Red, 102K 2002 Sport, Auto, 4x4, 3:55's, Qcab, 8' bed. Truck is stock and I searched for this one to be like that on purpose. I already have done some EXTENSIVE (a year plus) reading before getting one of these trucks, and I really purchased for the MPG and pulling power for my side camper/boat repair business. It was hard to let go of the Super Duty for the sheer toughness alone but I couldn't take the 11mpg average. Anyway, I already ordered a column gauge pod and an Isspro mechanical fuel pressure gauge, a fleetguard filter to swap out the scary K&N oil filter and a new fuel filter. (I pan on adding a Edge Juice W/ Attitude for the array of gauges when cash permits) The truck has had a new VP and stock block style LP as of May 2013. I want to keep this as stock as possible for reliability and ease of operation sake. What is the opinion f this board: Should I get a stock style lift pump to have at the ready, or start saving for an Airdog 150 or FASS? What else should I do right away to save face? Thanks AP

OK Guys thanks for all of the help. After getting it in the garage today I was surprised to see that what I thought was brake fluid on 3 of the 4 inside wheels must have been water from the road. The r rear caliper however, had taken a dump, and after closer inspection, must have been seeping for a while judging by the dirt cake. It must have finally gave up on the Pittsburgh hills because after dis-assembly, there was a huge hole torn in one of the seals most likely from a prying screwdriver. I ordered 2 seal kits from Advance for 7 bucks. Way cheaper than 60 per caliper. Feeling relieved for sure, I was thinking all of the worst case scenarios in my head because of the new-to-me truck. Thanks AP

Thanks guys, I'm going to get a better look at it today, but I drove it home 300 miles with no problem. All of the sudden it starts leaking. It didn't seem to be applying the brakes or dragging. I do have code P0234 MAP sensor- could an over-boost be pushing pressure into the brake system somehow? I'm hoping this is a failed or dirty MAP and not a stuck waste-gate, OR just a result of the wild temp swing we had this week (35 to -15 to 20F)

Guys, hello and thanks for having me aboard! I just sold my 2008 5.4 SuperDuty for a very clean 2002 Sport Quad cab 8' 4x4 Cummins with an automatic. Picked it up in Virginia on Saturday and drove her home 300 miles and averaged 20.7 mpg. I have over 400 miles on the trip clock and have still have 3/8 tank- i cant believe this fuel economy, Unreal! Anyway, after the drive home I got under the truck to give it a once over with my creeper and trouble light and saw no major issues. Today, after it being very cold here in SW PA, I noticed fluid on the inside rear tire. Under closer inspection, It appears to be brake fluid, and after more inspection, seems to be pushing fluid past the caliper seals and brake components on ALL 4 CORNERS! Anyone heard of this before? Its dark and I was using a flash light on snow, but I am totally freaked out after owning this for 4 days, Any help appreciated. AP