440Rat

I was inspecting my intercooler hoses this afternoon and the lower ones have seen better days. So I figured I replace all the hoses regardless of them leaking or not. As far as hose kits go are some better than others or are they pretty much all the same?

I've been experiencing transmission issues for the last month or so, weird shifts, shuttle shifting, torque converter slippage, and a really hard 2nd to 3rd shift which has been going on for 6 months or more. Anyway I discovered a video on you-tube talking about a transmission wire that runs past the alternator, and it went on to say that if this wire was close to or touching the alternator in any way it could pick up a signal and cause issues with shifting and whatnot. For the heck of it I popped the hood and there was that wire laying across the alternator. I moved it up out of the way and drove the truck, and amazingly all the weird shifting and slipping went away. I still get the hard 2nd to 3rd shift, but for the last 2 days I've been pushing the truck trying to make it repeat what it use to do and it hasn't.

Don't all flex plates have a little slop around the center hole though to allow for what heat expansion there might be? The video I watched on flex plates all showed a little play around the torque converter. Or are you talking the outside diameter being off? Kinda hard to imagine seeing as they are most likely turned on a lathe.

Anyone have a contact for John at dynamic? He gave me a number awhile back, and I've left a couple of messages but haven't received a call back yet.

Anyone have a contact for John at dynamic? He gave me a number awhile back, and I've left a couple of messages but haven't received a call back yet.

Did you replace your factor lines with rubber hose? Also what size fittings did you use out of the transmission?

01 and 02 had torque management i believe, does the smarty bypass that? What about replacing the old cooler lines? Is there a source for OEM, or an aftermarket option? I've read some about replacing with rubber lines, any experience with that around here?

Got off the phone with Jeff at Goerends transmission today and felt a little light headed. I explained what my intentions for the truck, around 400 horse and more aimed towards towing my car trailer and 31 ford, than hauling ships or mining equipment. But I'm going to over build it so if I ever have to... We came up with a list of parts and I figured I'd ask around here to see what others have to say from experience. My truck just shy of 167k so I'll be rebuilding the whole transmission. not just replacing the torque converter and valve body. Anyway the list of parts are as follows, Master rebuild kit 2.5 quart added capacity transmission pan Billet input shaft Valve body Triple disk torque converter Now in my reading some may say the input shaft and torque converter are overkill, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. And I'm sure I can shop around and find better prices on some of the parts, but I'd rather buy everything from one place and have it all shipped at once rather than 6 different places. I also questioned Jeff about upgrading to the 48re planets, and he said it wasn't necessary unless I was going to plow snow. My question for you is, Is there anything else I should be considering parts wise or am I pretty well covered with what I got?

Thanks guys, thats kinda what i figured, but wanted to be sure.

silly question but when you guys are talking 7x.008 or 7x.010, is that the number of holes and diameter of the holes in each injector?

So whats the difference in a SAC and VCO injector, is it just flow?

Good to know. I'll be giving a DAP a call in the next couple of weeks. Thanks for all your help.

I was on the DAP website earlier looking at their injector selection, for those that are running a bigger injector how are they for cold starts? Cold being below zero..

In the next couple of weeks I'll be pulling the failing transmission out of my truck for a rebuild, and while its out I want to upgrade the injectors. I'm not looking for anything crazy just a nice towing injector, so between the 50 and 75hp rating. I realize that power all revolves around other mods, but take for example 75 horse injectors. Are they in fact good for at least 75 horse?

I'll be going through my 47RE here shortly and was wondering who's got a good master rebuild kit? Talked to a local guy last week who used to be the transmission tech for the local Dodge dealer and he suggested Kevlar clutches and band... I'm not looking for 500 horsepower just want to build a nice towing rig, 350hp or so.

I'm running 3rd gen wheels already. Will the rear pads fit the 2nd gen calipers? It looks like you need caliper brackets to do the fronts..

my rear brakes are toast, in fact the one is still smoking after being parked for 20 minutes. Anyway I found a thread on here about 3rd gen brakes for the front of the 24v trucks, and I was wondering if the rear brakes on a 3rd gen will fit as well?

I could be wrong, but i thought the 3rd gen and 4th gen trucks ran a much higher fuel pressure than the 2nd gen vp44 trucks. So wouldn't their in tank pumps be to much for the vp?

I called a diesel shop here in town and told him my fass was making 18psi and he told me that was to much. and that the Dodge in tank pumps were a bullet proof solution and better than fass. I'm not 100% sure why the pump was running like it was, but I'm guessing it may have had something to do with my failing batteries and bad battery cables. Since I've replaced those items the pump runs pretty much steady at 18psi it shows a slight drop to 16.5-17 under load.

I replaced the cross over cable, drivers side positive and negative cables with 3/0 wire, along with the 2 grounds on the drivers side with 4 ga. wire. Both batteries charge evenly now and everything seems to be working just fine.

That I don't know, I tested the voltage at the FASS pump by jumping the relay, before swapping the batteries. Not running it would read 12V and at idle it read 3.8-.01 volts. When I tested the battery at idle the drivers side read 14.5 and the passenger side read 10.5. With the truck shut off for a few minutes i checked both batteries and they seemed to be equalizing each other in voltage. When I swapped the passenger side battery with the drivers side, and jumped the pump relay it ran and built pressure like normal. I couldnt test the voltage at idle because when I went to start the truck something went "pop" and I had no power to start the truck. With 2 new batteries everything worked fine for 4 days minus the grid heater which I figured out today wasn't cycling. I charged up the passenger side battery tonight and the Fass pump runs like a dream, but that battery isn't charging while the truck is running. What I cant figure out is why the dash gauge reads 14.5V and the drivers side battery reads 14.5V at idle but the passenger side battery wont charge. Its obliviously discharging that battery but wont charge it, if its not charging why would it read that it is on a gauge? Could the wire that ties the positives together be bad?

Will a failing VP44 draw more voltage under load? I discovered last Tuesday that one of my batteries had failed, so I replaced both with 2 brand new batteries. After installing the batteries, the truck starts hard when cold or sitting for 8 hours or more, and runs incredibly rich. This morning I noticed my fuel pressure drop from 18psi to 16psi, and on my way home the pressure would drop from 15psi at idle to 5 under load then come back up to 13ish. FASS said to check my VP44 overflow valve, that it sounds like its returning more fuel than using. I'm assuming the pumps original to the truck and has 160k on it, could it be seals are worn out and leaking fuel past causing the rich starts? I also noticed today that at idle the injector pump just didn't sound the same, I haven't witnessed any dead petal issues but I do see weird rpm fluctuations (less than 100 rpm) under acceleration. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Alright I did some voltage testing and talked to a few people, and it looks as if my alternator is bad. With the truck off the drivers side battery reads 12.5V and the passenger side reads 7.5V. At idle the drivers side reads 14.5V and the passenger side reads 7.5V. I'm assuming that both batteries were fully charged when installed, and over the course of 5 days the passenger side battery slowly discharged to the point that its creating my voltage issue. I figured I had about 2.5 hours of run time in those 5 days. My issue with the hard starts I think can be narrowed down to the grid heater not working.

You can hear the motor and that loud pulse is coming from the return line... drove it about a mile to see if the pressure would fluctuate and it dropped 1psi in 10 minutes. It appears I have a slight leak on the feed line, so that may be the cause for my pressing loss. Pump.mp4

Called FASS back and the guy told me its got an air leak some where. I pulled the return line and checked for debris, and pulled the fitting to get at the check valve. The rubber ball has a slight ring worn in it from the spring, so I rotated the ball 180 degrees and put it all back together. I also pulled the feed line to the injector pump (was kinda loose, but not leaking) and made sure that was clear. Put it all back together, and tapped the starter and the fuel pressure jumped to 16-17psi, and stayed consistent for the 15 seconds the pump ran. With the truck running it still reads 16-17psi but its got a slight pulse I'd say 1/2 psi. The positive battery terminal has some corrosion so I'll clean that up now and see if that's causing a voltage interference? I questioned the guy at FASS about the fuel pressures of the pump and he said anything above 9psi I should be ok. I went about a month without a pressure gauge so I don't know what it ran out of the box. I do know that when I hooked the gauge up little over a month ago it read around 14-15, and has slowly dropped since then. I'm assuming its because of that rubber ball being worn?

While I'm waiting for FASS to return a call I figured I'd ask here as well. I changed my fuel filter last Thursday and ever since, my FASS 150 is all over the place for pressure. I noticed this morning that every time the grid heater cycled the fuel pressure would build to 15psi, then drop back down to 12-12.5psi. Running down the road it continues to bounce between 12.5 to 15 some times it will spike at 18psi, then drop back to 12.5. Driving style doesn't seem to effect it either, Sunday driver to hot rod it doesn't drop below 12psi. Before I changed the filter it ran a constant 12.5psi and would jump to 15psi at start up then drop to 12.5. I bought a new water separator after work today to swap out the one that's on there, and other than pulling lines to look for debris I'm outta ideas. FASS states these pumps are preset to run 16 to 18psi.....