Invaliduser113

Perfect I will give that a try and see what it does.

Yes, I get choke in the turbo going to wot. I am receding throttle position and have it calibrated to my application.

I have altered the base tuning and got it 90% but I am having issues on the 2/3 to 100% throttle.

The issue I am having is at 2/3 I will see drive pressures over 40psi. My boost around 15-23, I am seeing about 80k rpm. 12cm is usually to big for me as I'm running this on my 4bt and that causes the turbo rpm to fall to drastically. I will see dtbr at about 2.6 and higher I have been setting the turbo to 9 than 10cm^2 and that helps at higher engine rpm. 30 is just a reasonable number I picked that seems to be when it is running the strongest. If I wot at a low engine speed the turbo stays small and the drive pressure gets to about 40 to 44 and gauss the engine to fall on its face.

Yes sir I have a thought, if I can get the controler to regulate drive pressure on the top end, mostly under Wot it would be a much more efficient turbo. I think I think the controler could keep it in its sweet spot better than me writing values.

Very bottom of tab E_Pos manage if (turbo_rpm > curve_rpm[3]) {vane_position -= TPS_range;} if (turbo_rpm > 110000) { if (turbo_accel[2] > 60) { vane_position -= 10; } if (turbo_accel[2] > 90) { vane_position -= 10; } } // Overrun protection if (turbo_rpm > 140000 ){ // 145,000 rpms is where I get worried about shaft speed. if (turbo_accel[2] > 0 && BoostPressure > 25) {vane_position = last_vane_position - 2;} //this will creep the vane position more open each code cycle if turbo rpms are above 150,000 if not in curvea ( perf mode defined by "F_watchpot" tab) else if (turbo_accel[2] > 0 && BoostPressure < 25) {vane_position = last_vane_position - 1;} else {vane_position = last_vane_position;} } if (turbo_rpm > 155000) { vane_position -=10; } if (turbo_rpm > 160000) { vane_position -=40; } } vane_position -= (FuelOffset * SpeedOffset); } if (turbo_rpm < minimum_turbo_rpm) { if (BoostPressure < 10) {vane_position = 700;} else if (BoostPressure < 20){vane_position = 600 ;} else { vane_position = 500;} //so that the turbo will default to %50 if no rpm sense. } if (ExhaustPressure > 30 ){ // Max exhaust bakpressure. if (turbo_accel[2] > 0 && BoostPressure > 20) {vane_position = last_vane_position - 2;} //this will creep the vane position more open each code cycle if back pressure if not in curvea ( perf mode defined by "F_watchpot" tab) else if (turbo_accel[2] > 0 && BoostPressure < 25) {vane_position = last_vane_position - 1;} else {vane_position = last_vane_position;} }

I have been trying to add some coding into version 1.08 to control the max exhaust pressure while driving. But i am having issues trying to figure it out, this is what i got going at the moment, I am trying to get coding to limit the max drive pressure. Not even sure if any of this is even remotely correct. if (ExhaustPressure > 30 ){ // Max exhaust bakpressure. if (turbo_accel[2] > 0 && BoostPressure > 20) {vane_position = last_vane_position - 2;} else if (turbo_accel[2] > 0 && BoostPressure < 25) {vane_position = last_vane_position - 1;} else {vane_position = last_vane_position;}

Did you get your speed sensor working?

Thankfully the sensors are easy to change. When your tuning the turbos, have you found it is easier to get the turbo spooled starting with a little larger housing or keeping it tight and opening it quickly?

I just had issues with my maxxim chip, ended up having to make a new one. The speed sensor could be temperature sensitive and when it gets cold it opens, seen that a few times.

You already have snow? Yuck! Did it sound like a big rig? Haha its a safety measure can't get on it and cause a spin out. I have been making test passes in the rain. I'm having an issue with the speed sensor reading. At the moment I have tried wiring the chip up as a1 and a2 mode and exactly as you layer it out on pg 14 hopefully correctly per the diagrams on maxim. It will not read any rpm. The circuit to the turbo is good. If I hook up just the speed sensor sorry +wire into 8 port it will read a turbo speed. I have #1 as the port with the little dimple on the chip.

I wonder than at what speed is it detrimental to the turbo and how far it can actually be pushed. If I blow mine up I will let you know what sped to not exceed. The hx40 would be a slightly larger turbo tho. So maybe it can not spin as fast?

What does holset rate the turbo to135k ish? I would think you could get the drive up by keeping the vanes small that should really spin the turbo and to keep the drive a but higher should really help out the boost to. Wonder what the 6.7 guys spin the turbo to in modded form? They have to be above the 140 mark. I just got my turbo on my 4bt have g issues with the speed sensor so I can update ya to with what I find by playing around.

Holly cow you have been busy. That actually should work out really well.

There where no 6.7's at work and I was busy replacing a manifold on a c12 acert, I will keep a look out and try and get any information I can when one comes through the door.

I think I can through insite and put it on a thumb drive. I will give it a look tonight. Usually we have a few 6.7 sitting around waiting for work.

Just noticed you asked this. From what I under stand talking with cummins is that the ecm monitors drive pressure, boost pressure and turbo speed and along with a host of other engine information. With the engine anything off idle to meet egr flow the turbo stays small to create back pressure, but to keep the gases moving and the dpf and doc happy the engine needs the boost to keep the gasses warm so the turbo will stay small until it hits it's eficency point at what point it will try and maintain the efficiency point for that driving condition. When drive pressure gets to high the egr can open to drop it back down. If egr does not work it will open up the housing just as your coding does. Driving them down the road most of the time under light driving the turbo is 80% closed. When viewed with in site.

Not sure if the above worked here are the links. http://vid1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc480/318Dakota4x4/Mobile Uploads/20151027_125807.mp4 http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc480/318Dakota4x4/Mobile Uploads/20151027_124950.jpg http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc480/318Dakota4x4/Mobile Uploads/20151026_235623.jpg

Big thanks to Nick for all his help. The issue was c9 was defaulted instead of c10 on the can board. Hopefully this helps some on in the future. I am running the seeed bus v1.2 can bus if you are having communications mainly not sending check the back of the board. I will post up pictures and a video of the 2nd vane test. 20151027_125807.mp4

So far no luck. I tried another uno r3 board with the same no response. Not sure if it matters, but I am using the r3 board.

Well here is the update. I set the actuator up and had it hooked to a Cummins motor in an 07 f650. turbo and actuator work properly. I could fool the boost sensor and the turbo would move as comanded so i know the turbo is working. Am using a new steeed can bus shield still can not get the turbo to work with the controller. The gnd light is lit up, RX light is lit up INT light intermittently flickers but the TX light never comes on. Is there a setting one needs to set up in the code? Do I have to jumper the ICSP pins? Trying to figure out whatIi missed.

I uploaded the program and it cycles the turbo according to the display... but the turbo does not actuate I am going to guess the shield is burnt. I will let you know how it works when I get the new shield installed.

Here is the update. I uploaded the program it runs through the start up screen and displays cm^2 = 25 but stays at that screen, characters never change and turbo never moves. It does this if I have power to the turbo or not. I ohmed out the actuator and have 120 ohms, I am starting to think the board is not communicating but am going to check the controller tonight at work. Not sure if this helps or not but i have 49k ohms between can high and can low on the board. and about 74 milivolts when back probing the can h and l wires.

Here is the video of the screen and what the actuator does when applied 12 volts. it goes to full open, the only time i see them do that is when the 1939 goes down they will default to full open on semis. http://vid1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc480/318Dakota4x4/20151004_2341581.mp4 I greatly appreciate the help.

The vanes do not jump but you can hear the actuator power up. I pulled the actuator off and the gear does move. I will try and post a video or link it to photo bucket. It seems to be the correct start up and cycling vanes. I have double checked the wiring to the actuator for power and can + and -. They are correct.