hawkeye213

Thanks man was reading about all that on your other post but I got it fixed. Update Ok never mind. I was testing it with just the key in the on position. I just went out and actually started the truck and it works just fine now. It even works now with the key only in the on position. Weird but I'll take it.

Everything was working fine. The blower motor has only run on high for a year or so. My blower motor started making a funny noise like the squirrel cage was rubbing against something. So I pull the blower and disconnect the electrical plug and pull the resistor also while I am down there. The resistor just need a spot soldered back which I did. The blower motor has like a rats nest of insulation in the squirrel cage. I did reach up thru the blower housing and feel around to see if there was any other junk up in there and there wasn't. I put everything back together and the blower motor blows on all speeds now and the noise in the blower motor is gone everything is great except it only blows out the defroster vents no matter what I select with the switch. I was only working right there where the blower motor and resistor was.I have had to knock something loose right there but cannot figure out what. Thanks for any help you can give me . Update Ok never mind. I was testing it with just the key in the on position. I just went out and actually started the truck and it works just fine now. It even works now with the key only in the on position. Weird but I'll take it.

Ok need a little advice. Currently own a 2002 Dodge diesel HO 2500 4x4. I am 58 and planning on retiring @ 62. I want to buy my last truck and get it paid for before I retire. Don't haul a lot ,but every summer we load up the cab over camper and hook up a trailer to haul a couple of four wheelers for a month in Montana. Have a friend who I will 2 or 3 times a year help haul hay 32' trailer with 300 square bales I have a 20' bass boat that I pull to the lake every 2 months or so. 90% of the time I put less than a 80 miles a week on my truck. I am looking at a 2014 2500 4x4 Tradesman crew cab with the 6.7 6 speed automatic (68 RFE). May end up with toy hauler after retiring and do the summer in the mountains and winter down south thing hauling it around. Does this sound like the right truck for what I want to do ? Another quick ? The four wheel drive selector is either manual stick or electrical with a knob on the dash. I am old school and like the stick but is there really a difference? Thanks Rob

Went out to the the truck tonite and noticed the driveway had some wetness on the ground and noticed a pretty good drip coming from my truck. I thought oh great what now. Got to looking and it was anti freeze dripping from the water pump. My first thought was great probably going to have to pull the radiator, shroud, front bumper,rear bumper, starter, tranny, and about 800 other things just to put fix the water pump. I was sure I was going to need a special dealer only tool also. Its not just a Dodge thing but seems like its always something, the manufacturers or engineers always make everything so difficult and you to have hands the size of an elf to be able to get to things. Came in fired up the internet to research the fix and to my surprise it was 2 bolts and the belt tensioner. Took longer to go get the part than it did to fix it. Oh well maybe I shouldn't be such a pessimist. Must be my lucky day.Thanks Rob

Ok got the hub off in about 30 minutes. Dripley I modified the power steering trick (pst) a bit. After taking the rotor off I threaded on a lug nut on one of the studs on the hub and then slipped on old rotor back on the hub and then put a lug nut on the stud opposite the above mentioned stud. It makes the rotor sit offset or as we say in Texas woppy jawed. I then loosened the bolts holding the hub on about a 1/2 inch and then applied PST and then I rotated the hub with the high side of the rotor opposite the socket and extension braced from the bolts to the axle tube and gave it a good whack and she popped the first whack. I then just moved the socket and extension in an x pattern and reapplied the power steeering and then rotate the high side of the rotor to be opposite the socket and give another good whack. Loosen the bolts another 1/2 inch and repeat the above steps.the offset rotor creates a fulcrum lever thingy on the bolt you have the socket braced with the power steering. The first 100,000 miles on this truck were in the Pacific Northwest so I was thinking these would just be rust welded on there. The pst might have worked on its on but I was afraid to really reef on the power steering for fear of that socket and extension slipping off the tube and go flying thru my eyeball or something. I had read about the rotor trick on another site and just combined them and it worked perfect. - - - Updated - - - Now to the seal. First off I didn't realize I had to pull both axles to remove the pumpkin. DUH !!! Anyway after pulling the differential and getting a look at it I decided I needed to get a little more educated about this task. When I went to the part store and he showed me the seal I thought he was joking But after looking down the axle tube it is indeed the correct seal. So I guess my question is how would you go about knocking the seal out. That cone thing is almost the same diameter as the tube and it is metal and where that cone thing tapers down and attaches to the seal is right where the rubber seal is .So if I beat on the cone end I will just be putting pressure in the middle of the seal spreading the outside of the seal and wedging it tighter ????? I understand the concept of using the all thread to seat the new seal But the 1 3/4socket as you can see sits just inside the edge of the seal and I am wondering if that would effect the integrity of the seal ? Also if anyone has some thoughts on how to remove that pumpkin correcty. I just had this vision of prying on it and it just falls out on the ground with a thousand little shims going everywhere. Thanks Rob

Thanks guys for the replies. Ur right I have never done either of these processes. I will give the power steering thing a try. I have read the hubs can be a bear to get off. I don't have the cad on my truck. Was wondering about having to pull the guts out of the differential to replace the seal.Thanks Rob

ok am replacing the front driverside axle seal and front driverside wheel bearing First off do all 2500's have the Dana 60 upfront. I looked at the differential and it doesnt say. There is a metal tag that has the #'s 52070136A0 354 611 223Do those #'s mean anything to anybody.Any suggestions or tips on replacing the seal inside the differential.Any tips on removing the hub have heard it can be a bear to get offThanks Rob

Sorry for starting this thread and then bailing. Anyway got under there tonite and jacked the front end up and gave the wheels a spin and could immediately hear a noise go to looking around and the u-joint from the tcase to front drive shaft is shot. It is hidden by the skid plate. Removed drive shaft will take to the machine shop tomorrow get some new ones pressed in. Hopefully that will solve everything. If not I'll be back Thanks Rob

Alright you have the normal road noise ( tires on the pavement )the last week or so I have what I can only describe as the same road noise but it is just louder. It sounds like it is coming from the front center of the truck As you accelerate it gets louder. I finally got the boat out for the first time this year and pulled it to the lake. The ramp is unbelievably steep so I just put it in 4wd to drive up the hill. As I am going up the hill I hear what I think is the safety chain bouncing up and hitting the frame of the trailer. I go fishing and then put the boat back on the trailer put it in 4wd and start to hear the clanging again Get up to the top of ramp and realize it's my truck making the noise. I take it out of 4wd and it stops. Put it back in 4wd and turn the wheel and slow rate of speed and the clanging seems to get worse. I looked at all the U joints and checked all my fluids and everything looks alright. As I drove home from the lake I was thinking the loud road noise and the clanging in four wheel drive must be connected. It doesn't make any noise when turning the steering wheel in 2wd. The steering is tight and straight down the road. I used the 4wd earlier in the winter and had no problem. Any thoughts on where to start ? Maybe a u-joint going bad ?Thanks Rob

Yes I am and it is true experience is the best teacher. But I really do appreciate yours and others guidance on this forum to solve these problems. Dripley good luck on your truck.

IB I replaced the core. Dripley I got mine from Miller Radiator. It was like $60.00. It was a Ready Air 398313The inlet outlet tubes swiveled at the heater core. Which made the installation much easier. I highly recommend getting the swivel tubes. I did not have to remove the evap lines to do the removal. Nor did I have to completely remove the dash. Cant swear to it cause I didn't try it but I think if you just cut the tubes away from the old core and pull them out thru the fire wall hoses still attached and you get the new heater core with the swivel inlet outlet tubes you might not even have to remove the heater box from the firewall. Getting the old one out with the non swivel tubes was tight because of the evap lines and cannister being tight to the firewall. I did it by myself took about 4 hrs total. The hardest part was finding and removing the bolts to the heater box in the engine compartment. There is a video on youtube that helped alot. Not sure how to embed a link for it. Just typed in "google" heater core removal 2002 dodge ram 2500 and got the video. It will be nice to have heat this winter. Last winter was miserable. Like I said earlier I flushed my heater core when it was still on the truck and it seemed to flow thru great. After I got it out I hooked a hose up to it and it appeared to flow just fine and that was when I thought " great it really isn't the core. " Mopar tried to convince me it was the core last winter when I asked about this. I just kept thinking I have flow thru the core. Both of my heater hoses are the same temp "hot". it can't be the core. Thanks Mopar one day I'll learn to quit being so hard headed.:banghead:Thanks again Rob

Got the heater core changed out today. Man it gets really hot now. Thanks everyone for the advice. Wasn't as big a pita as I thought it would be. I tried the flush deal but did not help. Even after I pulled it I flushed it again and had good flow thru it and thought great I pulled it for nothing. But like Mopar said it was partially blocked or something cause it really puts out the heat now.Thanks Rob

Thats what I figured.Thanks Rob

When I turn my heat on it is just semi warm. I have searched the forum and checked everything. The Ac compressor kicks on and off correctly when the selector is turned. The air comes out of the appropriate vents when selected. The blend door works ( watched mopar video ) when the temp selector is turned. The big flapdoor over on the passenger side moves when the max AC is selected. The radiator was replaced and flushed 10,000 miles ago. New thermostat also. Temp gauge heats up to 190 and stays there no matter what I am doing. Both heater hoses going in from the engine side are the same temp and they are hot . I pulled the glove box and can see and feel the heater core and the in and out pipes on it are both very very hot . This heater use to get my truck unbelievably hot. I am inclined to believe its the heater core that is bad and I should just quit procrastinating and change it. Any thoughts would be appreciated.Thanks Rob

just want to thank everyone for their post and advice. Mopar thanks for the forum links for all the diagnostics pages it really helped alot. I love this place. Thanks again Rob.