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billy bee

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Everything posted by billy bee

  1. I checked the relays and could not figure out which one was for the lights. What is the PDM? Is that the bank of fuses and relays directly behind the driver's side battery? Which relay? How is it marked? All the smaller relays are the same, so it would be easy to check with a known good one. Meanwhile I have taken the two multi-finction switches completely apart. It was pretty dirty. I cleaned all the contact surfaces. None of the contacts are burned in any way. They cleaned up beautifully. I will re-assemble it in the morning and report what I find... bb
  2. OK. I'm still at this. I changed put the switch and still no lights. No, I did not buy a new one. I got a good used one. At least I think it's good. From what I hear, the switch burns out. Melting plastic. Smoke. Broken. Both of mine look and feel fine. You can even look at the contacts and see the hi- and lo-beam contacts moving around in the assembly. They look fine. Is there anything else that could cause this problem? I can't find a relay. Bad ground somewhere? bb
  3. Thanks for the link to Rockauto. They do have good prices. THey show three different suppliers for the switch. Have you had any better luck with one than another?Thanks again,Bill
  4. Low beams are not functioning properly. High beams work fine if I pull on the stalk, but they do not click into high and stay there. If I want the high-beam lights to work I have to hold the stalk. I only get hi-beams and if I let go I get nothing.The backstory: I was driving home from work this weekend and using my headlights on the Pacific Coast Highway. It was foggy in spots and the low beams were working fine, I think. At least they worked fine the night before... At one point I sped up for a pass and flashed my high-beams to indicate I was coming through. (It's a narrow road in most places.) As it was getting dark, I realized the low beams were not working. Any ideas on where to start? Multi-function switch on the column?98.5 QCSB 4x4 w/ 178k...Thx,bb
  5. So, I am not buying these drivetrain compo0nents, but if anybody wants the number of the seller, I am happy to forward it.bb
  6. My thinking was a more reliable drivetrain with fewer miles. But you guys have me convinced that it's a foolhardy proposition. I am still considering buying and re-selling the parts (like I really have the time and space to do that)... bb
  7. I have to repair the washer fluid lines under the cowl. Anybody know how to remove the wiper arms?bb
  8. Well, I may have to buy the parts and part them out. Seems like too good a deal to pass up... And then I have spares if something doesn't sell. But we all know that whatever I sell will be what I need.Thank,Bill
  9. I have temp and compass ion the overhead. No MPG or anything. I keep hearing horror stories about the lift pump and VP. So, I am over-reacting to that, I guess. Doesn't $2500 seem like a good deal for the entire 12v powertrain? bb
  10. I am considering buying a complete 1998 12v drivetrain consisting of: [*]Engine w 100k [*] Auto trans w 12k on Jasper rebuild (w/ upgrades, but not sure what they are) [*] X-fer case w/ 100k [*] 3:55 axles with 100k [*] Front drive shaft Been sitting indoors since 2003. However, I can buy the whole deal for $2500...maybe less. I would then swap the 12v and Jasper trans into my '98 QCSB and sell my 24v (w/ 177k), good auto trans and 100k axles after the swap. I could give people good deals on everything, I think, and still get an engine/trans with low miles in my truck in for just a few dollars. I could not do the swap myself. Just don't have the equipment anymore...or the patience. So, I'd have to pay a shop to do it... Questions: Is this an easy swap.--'98 24v for a '98 12v? What's the value on my 24v (177k) and trans? What's the value of the 100k 3:55 axles? (My truck already has 3:55s.) Or should I swap them into my truck, too? What's a fair price to pay a shop to do the swap? Is this a stupid idea? Thanks, bb