Bduhigg86

261k on truck. I bought it with 256k on it. Injectors very well may be original. How could I tell if I pull them? What exactly should I do with the oil? 2 stroke oil you mean?

Ok thank you for the reply man! I was really hoping you weren't going to say that hehe I thought beings I had good oil pressure I could maybe rule out a bearing? I will possibly just pull my injectors anyway to see if it's they are cracked or something. Any secret methods for checking crank bearings and other bottom end components without pulling motor? Also I should have specified im sorry. My oil pressure fully warm, at idle is 30 psi and I'll have to double check but I believe between 40 -50 at 2000 rpm. Is that good or too high? Is it possible that my I'm just not used to how loud these trucks are? I know this sounds crazy but I don't think I've ever heard a 100% running properly vp44 5.9l. With my head under the truck anyway.

Hey guys. Have a question about my truck wondering if you can shed some light. I bought this truck a couple years ago and have been slowly restoring it. I hear a loud knock/clank I believe to be coming from cyl 5 or 6. I say this because I originally thought the TC bolts were loose. I checked them. Removed, locktite, retourqued. I cracked fuel injector lines one by one to try to isolate noise, etc. Each line I cracked, I heard a noicable miss but the noise never stopped. Today I took my valve cover off to look for anything obvious. I found a few things! I see all my rockers getting evenly oiled, no visibly bent pushrods, no dropped valves/carbon buildup anywhere. I did notice however that my oil has a rainbow/tie die effect when I hit it with the flash light. Also when I stuck my finger into the coolant plugs cups, most seem to be weeping because I see, although very minor, some grey milky substance on my finger. I know this is a multipart question but what direction would you guys think I should go next? Why did noise never stop no matter which injector was killed? I ran the truck with cover off to see that each rocker will collect bubbles above it. Is this normal from vibration from being pumped? I'm pretty sure in the near future the head will need to come off to replace coolant plugs? I'm going to include some stuff here.. Oil pressure cold start 70-80psi then slowly drop to 28-30 psi fully warmed. Valve lash has been done Never loose oil pressure WOT feel no misfire No extended crack times No noticeable smoke whatsoever Truck has minor mods 4" exhaust, air dog lift pump, gauges, intake horn, and cold air intake. Thank you so much! I

Awesome ok thanks guys. I don't think it's ever been rebuilt. I think the shop who sold it would've told me if it was only to try to get more for the truck. In the near future I will definitely be replacing/rebuilding the trans but this will definitely buy me some time. Even if it only lasts a few minutes I just want to see if the noise stops. Thank you guys! Actually, while we're on the subject, what would your recommendation be as far as the trans? I see convertion kits online to switch from auto to a 5 or 6 speed. I guess I have 3 options. Switch to manual, rebuild my existing trans with heavy duty parts, or buying a new auto trans from a company like ats. What would you do?

Good morning everyone, I have a question regarding my 99 with a 47re. I decided to do some investigating because the truck developed a noise. I found that my torque converter to flexplate bolts were loose. I was able to get a half turn when retightening. So I have a few questions, any help or info you could share would be great. First, are these bolts TTY? Second, if they are not TTY, should I remove them, use locktite, and reinstall? And last, would you happen to know the torque spec on those bolts? Thank you guys for reading and for your time. This site has been a life saver many times. Brandon

Ok thanks guys. Honestly, I probably am getting ahead of myself as far as rebuilding a head that probably has nothing wrong with it. At the very least I will definitely be doing some arp head studs. My thought process about all this was.. Im hearing a knock (I'm hoping it's the flex plate) Truck has a little over 250k on it. No extended crank time, no loss of power(I don't think) no smoke. Good oil pressure. I did a valve adjustment on it as well. I was able to confirm, thankfully before I burned up my VP, that my in tank lift pump was giving me less then 2psi at idle and God only knows how low at WOT. So as of now, the tank is down and I bought an air dog with the bulkhead fitting kit. After I get the lift pump done, and am happy with psi to VP, I guess the next step would be to crack the fuel lines one by one? Would you guys happen to know if low supply pressure to the VP would cause excessive engine noise? I know I'm getting ahead of myself. I'm just trying to be proactive lol.

Hey guys, Have a few questions about my truck. This site is awesome by the way. Very helpful for us backyard mechanics. I own a 2nd gen 24 valve with a VP. Since buying the truck last year I've restored the truck cosmeticly and mechanically. I've come to the point in my project, where I'd like to do some top end modifications. Namely removing the head and rebuilding it. The main question I have ( any other information would be greatly appreciated ) is.. what is the procedure for removing push rods? My concern is that I understand that at the bottom side of the pushrods, there are tappets. I'm picturing in my mind, once I pull up on the pushrod to remove it from the engine, does the tappets stay where it needs to? Or now that the rod is not there to hold it in place, will it fall into the motors bottom end? Or are they secured so that all 12 rods can be removed, new ones installed, and the tappets will remain where they were? Any advice you guys have on this project I'm about to undertake would be awesome. Thanks Brandon