kstossel

Thanks for all the opinions and suggestions. I did get the axles back in.I looked down the tube with a flashlight and saw no obstructions, tried again, and they just simply wouldnot slide into place.Then rotated the gears INTERNALLY BY HAND, it would go in only if what the parts book called the "pinion shaft" was vertical in the casing.When this problem started on Sunday, I did rotate the yoke slowly, from the outside, essentially doing what I did above, but the shafts never went in. It is possible I rotated to fast or just didn't get it perfect but I had at least done the correct procedure.I am ready to button it up now UNLESS it might make someone think I have some internal damage or too much play based on what I said above. Also, I am assuming the passenger side axle doesn't rotate when the yoke is turned because I don't have limited slip?. Right? As I said, I have zero knowledge of the differential, just something I never even opened let alone tried to work on. I try to avoid the areas I never learned for the obvious reasons. I know where I come from, limited slip isn't usually ordered by the dealers unless you get 4-wheel drive.Thanks again for all of the above suggestions. You kept me from pushing it across my backyard and loading it for a trip to a pro. Where I would have been seriously abused....and embarrassed.This is the 2nd time this board pointed me in the right direction. I'll send a donation later tonight.

no problem on my end, I have a thick skin, just didn't get it that's all. I will try the suggestions this evening. Another local guyy just told me there is no reason they shouldn't go back in, if they came out. Can't wait to see what teh issue is

Thank you. I wasn't able to see anything when I looked today, I just saw some light but couldn't tell if there was a blockage in the tube. I will try both ideas in the morning.The joke sailed over my head, but I will put up with anything to avoid damaging a part I have no knowledge of how to fix.I will try to see if their is a block and then if not, use a bit more force, and angle adjustment.Thanks again to both.

yes, same axles that came out of it. And original to it from factory. And I even marked them as to which side they came out.I admit, I didn't hit it with a hammer, but I did push with a fair amount of force, both while turning the axle and while having someone spin the yoke completely around. It really feels as if something is blocking it. I also didn't hear anything fall down, or 'clunk' when I removed the axles so I don't think the bearings exploded or anything when I removed them.I will try again in the morning. I actually hope I am just not pushing hard enough. I would rather be considered stupid and/or timid, then having a real issue inside my differential.Thanks for the opinion.

I have a 1990 D350 with a Dana70, 3:07 gears if that matters.I had the Dana70 off the truck and was doing the brakes, e-brakes and wheel bearings to put under another truck.I removed both axles so I could use the other side as a guide to hook up all the e-brake stuff, couldn't find my camera that day.Now I am done, and the axles won't go back in. The book doesn't warn you, but I have a vague memory of someone telling me 20 years ago, to NOT remove both axles. And yes, the yoke spun when I lifted the assembly onto jackstands.Did I make a rookie mistake, removing both axles AND allowing the yoke to spin. Is there a 'trick' to getting the axles back in. I know nothing about how the differential works, I have never rebuilt one and do NOT have any of the special tools needed to do it correctly. I have a gut feeling there is a pin or latch under the differential bearing caps but I am not about to remove them without asking for opinions.I also know the general condition of the assembly, I bought the truck new in 91 and put all the miles on it myself. It had miles on it, but there was nothing major wrong with it when I parted out the truck for various other reasons. In other words, I didn't buy an unknown piece of junk from someone.Thanks for any advice or opinions in advance

I would read through the above comments, there were many good ideas for the not-so-common causes of low power.To start with the easy and cheap causes: clogged air filter, water in fuel filter (most common)(even if the water light isn't on)After that, if it only happens on hills of somewhat steep grades, lift pump will cause that. The injection pump will suck a little fuel on its own, but it needs the lift pump to overcome gravity, especially under load. Lift pumps cost about $70 and isn't that hard to replace, but sometimes you need 3 hands if you are using a jack.After that, to avoid paying $1000 for an injection pump, read through the comments above and see if you see anything else that can be checked.In my case it was the worst of everything, a non-working lift pump combined witha barely working injection pump (very gummed up and dirty). So the little, cheaper causes I couldn't take advantage of, I had to spend the money. If it turns out to be an injection pump (assuming the money doesn't effect you that bad) you will be surprised how well everything works after replacing it. A new lift pump, injection pump, confirming injectors are good etc... will give you another 300,000 miles of high power

It turned out to be the worst of everything, bad injection pump and bad lift pump.At least the injectors checked out OK.But engine runs great now, thanks for the help, suggestions, guesses, educated guesses and so on.But in this case, it wasn't anything tricky, just 2 major components that went out very close to one another.Thanks again

Jag1: The town is Kennesaw Ga, about 25 miles north of Atlanta. When they passed the law REQUIRING gun ownership, crime dropped to almost nothing. And even though the town has been swallowed up by Metro Atlanta (suburbs) it has avoided the crime that other areas (even a few miles away) have. I used to live very close to Kennesaw and it was, and still is, a very nice place to live. They do still have a police force though, the citizens are not the police (like a volunteer firehouse)

Thanks for all the suggestions. I have no history on this drivetrain and I can tell someone has messed around in various places so I know I am searching for the same thing some other owner did. I will try the lift pump just so I know it has been replaced and cross my fingers, but if that doesn't do it I will concentrate on the injection pump. The injection pump is much cleaner than the engine so maybe it suffered a backyard rebuild that went bad. I also saw a Q/A comment on a youtube video where the guy suggested it was an incorrect banjo bolt on the pump. Maybe the previous owner tried to adjust the fuel pin and messed it all up. --------------------------------------------------------- "i did this on my 92 d350 automatic. After i rotated the fuel pin, i noticed that it shifts through the gears a lot faster but i have a lack in power, especially top end or coming up hills. I cant seem to get it back into the original position. Any advice ? thank you [*]Share [*]Remove [*]Flag for spam [*]Block User [*]Unblock User Sounds like you might have a boost leak, make sure the line going into the top of the pump has the correct banjo bolt in it and it's tight. " ------------------------------------------------------------ I need to get this one running so I can get back to work on the other 2 drivetrains that will be transplanted into other vehicles. If I knew it was the injection pump I would just buy one, but I do not have the tools or know how to replace an injection pump. If any readers live in Southwest Va, feel free to make me an offer to do the labor on removing/replacing the injcection pump. Thanks again for all the advice, I will update when the issue has been found and corrected.

I am chasing a low power condition (trouble pulling hills) and trying to rule out various components.Can anybody detail out (very simply) the symptoms of a bad lift pump or a bad ecm.When you can only take a 3% grade at 35 mph something is wrong.Fuel filter changed out, injections bled, air filter replaced, currently installing a boost gauge but Iexpect it will show turbo is fine.After lift pump and/or ecm it becomes more serious I imagine (trans tq or injection pump?)When I downshift manually from 3-2 (no OD) the engine rpms go up but no change in torqueor vehicle speed.

Yes, the one on the right of the picture, circled, is the one that was incredibly loose. That's great that I will have more power, but it wasn't really down on power anyway. BUt I will run the pressure test over the weekend and hopefully I find the actual leak. I very much appreciate all this info. Thanks again.

I was waiting until the weekend to flip the truck around so no problem. The Air Control Vent Tube (at least in my book) has one ended connected high on the block, or head actually. The other connects to the TOP REAR of the injection pump with a bolt that goes through an eyelet on the tube. It was SO LOOSE and so obvious I thought I got lucky at that one. Feel free to tell me to keep looking for a leak if you know better. Thanks --- Update to the previous post... I will check that also, thanks.

I followed your advice and started looking for an air leak. I was lucky enough to find a probable leak without even having to put pressure on the system. I saw that what my book calls the 'Air Control Vent Tube' (connected to the Injection Pump) was extremely loose. I was able to tighten its connection with my fingers a full 4 turns, 1 more with a wrench. My guess is that this allowed air in. I will flip the truck around and see if it bleeds out the fuel, but somehow I think it won't. I appreciate the advice, I appreciate you guys guiding me rather than just telling me the answer, and as soon as next payday rolls around I will become a full member. I am sure I will need your advice again, next is a hot rod I am making with a Cummins diesel. Thanks again, you save me from simply getting a new Injection Pump, which when installed, I would have found that same leak and kicked myself $1500 times.

I appreciate the advice. Although it sounds like I have to actually work (as opposed to just bolting on a new part) it might end up being a simple loose fitting. I'll spend any amount of time necessary to avoid randomly replacing the injection pump. Although I guess the leak could still be in the injection pump. When I trace the leak, I'll post back, might help someone else if its an easy fix. Thanks again.

I'm a new member here, sorry I have to start with a question. I have a 93 Dodge with 1st Gen Cummins engine. I had experienced some weird symptoms untilI narrowed it down this weekend. In short, when parked on a steep hill (my driveway), with thetruck pointing uphill, the fuel will drain back into the tank. It will not self-bleed (with the starter).Then, of course, it will not start. When I flip the truck, and have it pointing downhill, in about 24 hours the lines will bleed and I'mgood to go. Truck starts fine. (One the fastest starting and best running Cummins I have everowned). Rather than start replacing things left and right I was trying to determine where the checkvalveis located in this vehicle. I would think: Injection Pump, Lift pump, tank sending unit. My gut tellsme the Lift Pump, since a pump wouldn't really be a pump if it didn't have a checkvalve. But a friendly mechanic insists it is the injection pump. Can anyone help possibly save me some money and tell me it is the lift pump (or not!)It runs so well, I just can't imagine its the injection pump, but I figure I willleave it to the experts. Thanks for any advice you are willing to give.