xc2

Okay, I got the Carter wired and plumbed up. Turns out the lines are 3/8 after all. I must of gotten confused with return line to the tank. Anyway, so I bump the starter. Nothing. Zero. Zip. Nada. At that point I say about every cuss word in existence and make up a few more. So I hot wire it the FASS - bingo! The FASS's demise was greatly exaggerated! Man, I must of misdiagnosed the wiring. But now the truck won't even start. Its dark. I'm tired. I call it a night. Of course I say lots of unkind stuff about myself for prematurely ruling out a wiring problem. So the next day I run into town to get a 3/8 union to undo the cut fuel line thus bypassing the Carter I didn't need in the first place. It's there as a spare if I ever need it some day...... Got the air purged from the fuel lines and the truck fired right up. fewwwwa..... Okay, what's up with the wiring? I used a test light the other day and just grounded it to the frame, just because the alligator clip wouldn't fit in the pump's electrical connector. Must be a bad ground, right? So I dig out the multi-tester, bump the starter, and check the voltage. I mean I check both the (-) and (+) at the connector. 12 volts.... Huh? So I start the truck and test the lead again. This time it shows 14+ volts. What the?!?!?!? So I plug in the FASS and NOTHING. What the?!?!?! So I unplug it, test again and now it's showing about 4.5 volts. Ahh, I think I'm very close the the root cause! So, doesn't the ECU control the fuel pump? Is it a bad relay? Corroded connections somewhere? Whatever, I'm done being stuck on the side of the road and laying in the dusty dirt underneath my truck. I got one of those cigarette lighter plugs with attachable leads, so I run the wires out the back window and down to the FASS. BAM! 17lb of pressure! I clean up, put away the tools. load the Yamaha into the toyhauler, take a quick shower and was on my way. That was about 400 miles and 2 states ago. I know enough to be dangerous, but boy did I sure learn a lot. Yeah, the road service subscription and my credit card could have solved the problem for me, but what fun is that? Besides, I'd just be sitting around waiting for a shop to open somewhere I didn't want to be.

Thats a really good question about the lockup switch. I bought the truck with a BD transmission and an exhaust brake. Ended up snapping the input shaft a few months ago and had it rebuilt by a local shop. He kept the BD valve body. I do have a TC lockup switch that works in conjunction with the exhaust brake, but it doesn't seem lock sooner than normal or in lower gears. Let me look at the manuals again when I get some time, because what the PO told be it supposed to. IDK, maybe the exhaust brake needs to be on......The last time I used the exhaust brake going down a hill at highway speeds, the tranny got hot (220+) and I didn't recover quickly, so don't use it anymore. Then add a Gear Vendor which can also lock/unlock...... Lots going on here and I'm not certain it's all working together. I do have a deep pan with cooling fins. I think I'm gonna look into a better cooler (I believe have the stock one) with a fan. I dread coming to a stop sign/light before a grade on a hot day. Yeah - 47RE (not 48RE). I really don't know where the temp sensor is. I'll have to take a look and get back to you. Thinking it's in the pan but not 100% sure.

So the entry road to the Laguna SECA race track has a 16% grade and my trailer weighs just south of 10k pounds. No way to get enough speed to lock up the torque converter. So I'm stuck crawling in 1st. I had to run for a few hundred yards with the transmission temp gauge north of 280 degrees. Ouch. A high idle at the top of the hill brought the temp down quickly. The fluid doesn't look or smell burnt. I think I'm going to have it flushed out anyway. What are the chances that I damaged my freshly rebuilt 48RE? Is it typical to see the trans temp get up around 220 before TC lockup? You know - on a hot day leaving stop lights and such. As soon as the TC locks up, I can literally see the needle move back to 180. What do you guys do in these situations? Would a transmission cooler fan help?

*Stranded, not standed. Boy am I tried. The first task of the day was to deal with the different sized fuel lines. The FASS runs 1/2 inch lines and the stock has 3/8. I stopped by an Ace hardware and found a 1/2 barbed adapter with the correct threads for the old pump found on the truck. I thought I was in business but the new pump had a smaller holes for the fuel line nipples. OGGGGG.... back the the parts store. Then I spent most of the day running around Ogden playing games with O'reilly's. The first pump they sold me wouldn't accept ANY fittings. We tried all kinds of stuff - this pump must have metric threads?!?!? I don't know - just wasn't working. So we looked up at another pump and that one came with fittings, but they didn't have it in stock. So I jump on the motorcycle and ride 38 miles to a store to exchange. I expected fittings for 3/8 fuel line - and ones I got at Ace don't fit this pump either. OUG. So there is another Ace nearby so I go there. End up making my own 3/8 to 1/2 converter out of brass plumbing parts. Back to O'reilly's to to exchange this pump. But there is a problem - this pump had clearly been installed and then returned. Smelled like diesel and all of the bits were in a zip lock sandwich bag. OUG. I can't be messing around with a possibly bad pump, so I have the parts guy look around near by stores for another one. Back on the bike for another 20 miles to a store that has another one. I just got back to the trailer and was relieved to find that my rig hasn't been towed. I fired up the genny and AC. I'm going to rehydrate, after my 100+ mile ride and cool down before I go install the Carter. I'm need to chill for a bit before my "diesel bath". Hopefully my next update will be from 100 miles down the road...... 015point9 - thanks for the info. I'll give Rick a call later in the week when I'm somewhere that I can deal with the FASS. And yeah, when this is all said and done, the replacement Carter is going to be kept around as a backup.

Yes, there are filters on the FASS. I was hoping to leave the FASS connected to the fuel line. So tank ----> FASS ----> (new) factory pump ----> VP44. In other words, I'm just going to cut the fuel line, attach to the factory pump. The VP44 seems to be able to suck fuel through the FASS and it's filters, so I'm thinking this will be okay. The wiring connector is different, but it is very clear which is (-) and (+). So the wires going in the the FASS motor will be cut post connector and then attached to the factory pump post/nuts. There is a reason that FASS provides it's own harness, so this is why I'm wondering..... How's your VP44 doing now? Did it get damaged due to driving without a lift pump? 3 years without any problems?

So I'm going down the interstate in my 1998.5 24v and noticed 0 (zero) fuel pressure. Pulled over as soon as I could and shut down. My FASS usually makes noise. Now it is silent. It's dead. Here is what I know: - Its getting electrical current. Upon bumping the starter, the test light (at the lead that goes into the pump motor) turn on for a bit and then goes off. So the wire to the pump it hot. - It's not a fuel line clog. The truck does run after all. In fact, I didn't notice anything wrong such as lack of power or stumbling. And I'm towing a largeish RV. The gage was the only thing to indicate problems. - Tried the loosing of the three bolts at the 'T". Nope. Nope. Nope. No debris binding things up. It's still dead. I'm reasonably sure that I need a new pump motor. So I'm in a bad place right now. On the road between one place and another. I have about 1000 miles to go before I arrive at my destination and can order parts. In the mean time, why can't I just reconnect the factory lift pump and be on my way? I already went to Orielly's and got a new replacement for the Carter pump that is still attached to the frame rail. So here is what I'm thinking: - Replace the Carter pump that lives on the frame rail. It's still there, but disconnected. Well the wires are still attached but I'm assuming these were disconnected at the harness when the FASS was installed. I got a new one because who knows if it even works. I bought the truck with the FASS installed and I'm pretty sure its been there for quite some time. The old pump has opened to the air without fuel lines attached. - Cut the wire that goes to the FASS (between the disconnect plug and the pump motor) and runs these wires the the "new" factory pump. - Cut the FASS rubber fuel line and attach it to the new pump. Will the FASS rubber fuel line fit the nipples on the factory pump? Will this pump draw fuel from the tank and through the broken FASS? Again, fuel seems to be getting to the VP44 as the truck does run. - I've had this truck for less than a year and as far as I can tell, the factory fuel heater/filter/water separator had been deleted. I've traced the rubber fuel line from the VP44 to the FASS and I'm not seeing any of this stuff. Is a good idea or really bad idea? The fuel pressure sending unit seems to be attached to the FASS, so I would have no way of telling for sure if any of this is working. This way I can get to where I'm going and deal with the FASS repair when I'm not on the side of the road and parked somewhere I'm not supposed to be. Either I fix this in the morning or call a tow truck. Other questions: - I can't say for sure how long I was driving without fuel pressure. By the time I noticed the gage, I'd say less than 4 miles. Maybe I another 4 before that, but my fuel pressure gage is not in a place where I can keep a close eye on it. I can't say *for sure* how long I drove it like that. Did I fry my VP44? - As stated above, the truck still runs, drives and pulls, but I'm in a really bad place to be dealing with this. If I'm unable to get the factory replacement pump going, there is an RV park about 1.5 miles away. If I were to tow my trailer there, would I fry the VP44? What about to a RV park 10 miles away (no hills, 45MPH county back roads) where it would be more easy to deal with? - Is there ANYWAY to tell the condition of the VP44 now that it's been driven without fuel pressure? - If the VP44 did end up getting damaged, what happens next? Would it give any indication of impending doom, or am I going to be on the side of the road with no warning? No doubt in the middle of nowhere, or in a really bad place, with a toy hauler in tow. Summary: My FASS pump is dead. I would like to reconnect the stock lift pump and be on my way rather than spend the next week in Utah waiting for a new FASS pump motor. However, if this means frying my injector pump (or attempting with one that is dead and doesn't know it yet) and not making it to Oregon for work next Wednesday, I don't want to do that. I'm more than willing to admit defeat and attempt the journey next weekend. What would you do?