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rogerash0

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Everything posted by rogerash0

  1. Jl - My S475 had oil around the compressor wheel inlet housing, and the 62mm had oil coked up around the wheel. The 5 bolts on the WG housing were weeping oil, that's what led me on. I bought another s475, that's when I got the 1.32 housing. The "weepy" s475 sits on the garage floor to date. Assuming it's weepy. I don't know how the heck it got screwed up so fast. I think it could have pulled oil from the air filter but I recall it was blacm. Then the 62mm also felt like it had more play in the comp wheel than before, when it was new, more then I think it should have, more than 1-3 thou. But I'm not a machinest. Reason why I suspect the 62 is good after all is that it works well from what I can tell, the oil is no longer dripping from the WG housing or appearing fresh at the comp wheel, and the wheel isn't hitting the housing. I now run stock timing to reduce smoke and give the truck better manners. Also to save crank bearings some and pickup a few more psi of boost. Mostly to reduce smoke in the bottom end, and have a much smoother driving truck. One day I had a big puff of white smoke come out the back, and I know that's not normal. Perhaps that was the start to my white smoke dellimma. I was just driving 30ish mph down a road I drive everyday.
  2. As in it's coolant? They said they do all the checks on the head to ensure it's not cracked. I have noticed my radiator hose seem to stay pressurized for a long *** time. Like overnight. I have mishimoto radiator and cap.
  3. Ya I wrote Jared about a month ago and typically he reply to emails same day. I should get on them but I hate being a pain in the *** and I know I'm gonna get the run around. It's embarrassing blowing white smoke all over while the engine is cold, and even some when it's warm if I don't rev it out.
  4. On the back of the alt, one post gives me 7.53-7.59v AC, the other gives .061v-.065v. Off the charging cable at the alt I see .015vac. All measurements on a hot engine with the turbo center section used as a ground. When I bought the truck I read about the 53 block but could not find the casting at the time. I got it for $7100, it had the edge tuner, air bags, etc. I thought it was amazing. Well I started leaking coolant roughly a year after owning it, and right away I was able to identify the 53 in the casting. So $13000 plus 1k S&H later for a D&J motor, this is what I get. I have pics of the rest of the exhaust ports. This one was the worst in terms of unburnt oil on the roof. I noticed the very center of the ports were untouched despite their 5 axis CNC machine. My only explanation for this was the port height & angles were already optimized stock and they didnt want to disrupt the swirl in the cylinder. This is their stage 2 porting on the intake side. Stage 1 is exhaust side only.
  5. I've watched that video before, probably from you on here. Ya JL- I know I throw info out there incohesively too. Last time I did a pressure test was about a month ago after re-sealing the billet intake manifold with The Right Stuff. I took pics, some areas have only a quarter inch or less (maybe even an 1/8", I should refind pics)
  6. I lost 6-7lbs of boost with no changes to the truck after it's first couple months of being run with the new motor. I recalled after going to the 1.32 when I used to have 6-7psi I had 3-4psi with the same load and rpm on the roads I drive to and from work daily (same driving style etc).
  7. I took a video, but I don't have a way to upload it right now. It shows the WTS light coming on first before any other light by half a sec or a quarter second. Thx for the insight on the grids Diesel. I didn't realise quad had such better smoke control. I bought DDP Injectors bc they were the priceiest I knew of. I wanted the best. I'm seeing .007v-.01v AC off the batteries. How's that?
  8. Ya, by not coming on I thought it would be clear that meant staying on after the bulb check. My bad. I remember clearly the truck was running real good, I had no problems with it besides my AirDog dropping pressure down to 8-10psi on WOT pulls. That's why I took it in for a ECM reflash, because in their manual they say to do that. Fast forward, I never got the ECM reflash, I got a PCM reflash, I had hard starts after that. Airdog had me install my original non-adjustable base which remains on the truck. I changed filters (tried 10 and 2 micron), changed water seperator, changed fittings, changed harnesses, changed all fuel lines, bought a new gas cap, they sent out a new AD200 motor, I installed a sump. You name it. Re-did all the relays in the fuse panel except the funky short square ones. Made sure voltage is proper @ 13.5-14.3. Typically its 13.7-14.0. I tend to watch it like a hawk after dealing with a limp mode and things. Now I have the AD200 motor on there, AD100 original non-adjustable base, I cut the spring down so Im 16-17 PSI at idle, 16 psi in drive not moving, 15 PSI with 5-10% throttle, and it'll still drop down to 11psi at WOT with the 50HP injectors. Drives me mad. Only reason I went with the AD165 originally /w the new motor was because my AD100 that came on the truck was rock solid at 15-17psi all the time. Ive given up on calling them. jlbayes - It always seemed strange to me that 2nd gen injectors were so cheap. I still to this moment dont know who builds better stuff than DDP. Not saying they are the best by any means, but it seems that they carry the highest price tag. BD probably waivers close to them if I had to recall. Im not looking to drag race, but if I a lockup switch improves daily driving then thats what I want. I've been meaning to put one in, but I know I have to use it right, and I dont know how to use it really. I can guess and get along, but generally to learn I must first break something. That's not a path Im trying to run down right now. I'd almost take better driveability and less smoke than 600hp right now. We will see. I'll try to get a iquad and I've got the Edge's low end fueling turned down to 1 for now. I will continue to tune the WG. I'm seeing with the Edge boost elbow I only get 8 PSI @ WOT with the WG regulator full open (it's got a guage on it). With a normal 45* brass plumbing elbow I was seeing 45psi at WOT. Also the truck when I first drove it with all these mods except it had the 1.10 cover on the S475 and a stock intake elbow on there, it made 53PSI. Ever since that day I've been looking to get the boost back, I think it was my billet intake mani from D&J that was slowly leaking. Since then I have got the 3.5" banks intake /w 3.5" tube on there. I also threw my drive pressure sensor in the intake elbow originally to compare the MAP sensor to Edge's sensor, and they were within 1-2psi of each other. I think the $80 Napa MAP sensor reacted quicker and was slightly more accurate. The Edge sensor readings seemed to lag behind it by roughly a second.
  9. Yes, the WTS comes on every time I turn the key on. Instantly Im pretty sure, but I will take a short video to be sure. I previously bought a brand new Bosch alternator from Napa, the 136amp, because I read how problematic they were. I had also bought a new Mean Green in the past, when I had the motor installed, and I was told it was defective. So it got returned rather than swapped to save down time. This morning, after talking to you guys, I noticed the WTS light didnt stay on, but my voltage was still going from 12.7 to 13.7. I could hear it in the motor initially, that's what made me look. The analog cluster doesnt show it, but my Edge display does. I was surprised, because the WTS light didnt come on, so I didnt think the grids would be cycling. The truck did start up without a hard start. I noticed my water separator drain was weeping ever so slightly, so I tightened it extra good n tight and hope that fixes my hard start. Otherwise the only thing left is the rubber fittings on the brass return T. The truck is warm now, so I'll take the video of the WTS. When I previously measured AC voltage I thought it was low enough, but I cant recall if it was .01 (I think it was) or .1v. In my head I think .01-.03 was all that Moparman said was tolerable. There's a good chance those values are wrong in my head, so I'll measure it again here shortly.
  10. Man, wow. Why would the WTS light come on if the engine is warm? I know there's the bulb check, but didn't this site (and the FSM) have the chart with how long it stays on for, for a given temp out? I don't recall it ever staying on when the engine was warm or it was warm out. My truck has gone thru 3 alternators somehow. I'm hoping those days are behind me. My batteries are at 12.7v resting. Two 2 yr old yellow top Oltimas.
  11. Dieselfuture: You had to pull the head to do that right? What was the cost and down time? I have photos of my exhaust valves that I could see with the mani off. Not real pretty in my eyes. The roofs of the ports were clearly wet with oil. Do you know what causes this? I dont know if I changed the breakin oil too early, I let EGTs get too hot for too long (I dont think so), or what the root cause was. I wish I knew what caused it. I know Jared at D&J got my email. He's speedy replying to emails. But he didnt reply to that one /w pics included. When my motor was installed I had the torque converter bolts replaced with ARP bolts. I didnt have the bad noises from the TC until after the motor was put in, though. Perhaps the installer didnt torque them in the right pattern or to the right torque? Hard to say. Only thing I know is Im never relying on a another mechanic for the rest of my life. Period. Faster, easier and cheaper to do it right myself. Atleast things get done 90% right. My WTS light does come on when the whole dash illuminates. And it comes on right away when its cold out. Its summer time right now though, so on warm mornings/nights its not coming on. That makes sense, doesnt it? Like this morning it was 50 degrees at 9am, so it came on loud and proud for a good 10 sec I wanna say. I have actually swapped ECM's with one from Rocky Mountain Cummins and ruled mine out to be fine. I was having alternator charging problems, and it turned out to be a relay despite it ohming out per FSM instructions/values. 1.47k ohms or something iirc. When twisting the driveshaft to check for u-joint wear, I thought it always has a little slop left and right. Is this not the case? I went to 35's to smoothen the ride. I was coming out of a 07 Chevy 1500. 35's helped a ton, whilst on 16" rims still. Carli suspension did about 50%, tires did the other 50%. I previously hadnt gone back to stock size tires because I had my camper hitch setup for the height of my truck on 35's, and the nut on that thing is torqued to like 200 ft lbs or something insane. Not something I wanted to keep swapping around.
  12. Agreed on much of what you wrote. Perhaps I'll see about sending the SO VP pump back, since it wasnt my hard start problem after all. Fixing the drive pressure leaks actually fixed my hard start problem. Resetting the manifold and turbos and all associated piping was my last ditch effort before sending it on it's way to Lenny. He offered to work on it for me, despite having no time, but I really didnt want him doing that, because he assuredly has exactly that: no time to work on it. My injectors getting tested and returned many days later than I was quoted was a clear indication to me. It might be better if I tap the new II VP44 and sell the reman. My reman acutally has 036 on the key, and the new II pump had 035. I found the woodruff key listing on this very website that showed what key went to what serial pump, and 036 on my reman is the very "latest" / last on the list. Does this mean the 035 II VP44 is actually a pump with one less update? I bought the DDP's because for all I knew they were the best. I thought with 8 holes smoke would be less, but I certainly didnt hold that to be certain. I noticed my 50HP injectors (which came in the truck when I bought it) are also 8 hole injectors, but the tips must be VCO because they are different to my DDP tips which have gone to SAC. I could see that being a cause of the smoke. The only haze I have at idle is white smoke, from my exhaust valve guides leaking oil into the manifold. Im not sure why or how this happened, I just know my exhaust valve seals were bad from D&J when I checked em out with hardly any miles on the motor. They sent new OEM seals and a spring compressor to swap em out, so I did just that, and the new seals went bad just like the others. Some valves had more play than others, so I think the guides are no good. Not sure what caused that to happen. If I run the truck hard a time or two it clears out til the next cold start. If I drive it easily all week with not WOT pulls it gets pretty bad. Needs cleaned out per say. I could control my smoke pretty well with the old school Edge, simply by not laying my foot too far into it too fast, that's what led me to get my new one. Also, what ultimately did it, was the Tech on the phone said he would give me something crazy like 35% off retail MSRP (he actually said 35% off the price, later to find out it was off retail MSRP). He said I could send in my old one to get that % credit off. Then he said to just keep my old one, because they would throw it away anyway. Your advice on selling my junk laying around for a quad is good advice.. I might get around to doing that. Out here in MT theres a million buyers I'm pretty sure. As soon as Calibrated Power mentioned they were stacking on top of an Edge Comp I was completely unimpressed.. I dont see how you are gonna run any cleaner or better than the Edge Comp when it's your baseline. Nobody here is planning on going to the NHRDA in Billings MT later this month are they? I bet we could pick brains & talk 2nd gens all day & a half. It should be noted that Im currently running 35's, but am anxious to get my stock third gen wheels back on to re-witness good spool up. Odd ball questions I've had for a long time: 1) Is a lockup switch really as easy as running two wires, and is it practical / worthwhile? With a Comp I trans, I've been told I could do lockup in 2nd gear and run fast times. My intuition says that's probably a bad idea, any comments? More often than not, when the truck locks in OD it lugs pretty bad, and I hear what I think is the converter making a metal metallic sound like something bad. It seems to go away when Im 10-12mph past lockup. Most of all, the smoke and lack of repressiveness when it locks it something I am not a fan of. It's primarily a problem in town when Im not on the hwy, especially with a cold(er) motor. 2) I replaced all my u-joints maybe 1-2 yrs ago and my clunk when I drop it into reverse went away. Now its back intermittently, not as loud or as badly as before though. Is it u-joints again? 3) Do boosted launches kill the driveline, ie. u-joints and rear differential? I have yet to do one. 4) Does anyone else have an auto that clunks into third pretty bad 25-50% of the time? 5) Would it be OK to take a 12v line from the battery straight to the relay solenoids to make them enable manually? With a switch inline. Because the output from the ECM is 5v, so Im curious if it would hurt anything. Reason why I ask is first start of the day is a hard start unless my Wait to Start light comes on, then it fires up easy. I have wired this aforementioned circuit up before, but it didnt seem to make a difference. Then I learnt how everything off the ECM is 5v, and since have been afraid to try it again. Seems like the hard start issues came after I had a dealer update the PCM. I told them to update the ECM, per Air Dog manual. Well, they did the PCM, and lets just say it seems that didnt do the truck any favors. I got to go in the back and see the Dodge software with all the options. I took some pics of the screen and saw what they could put on there. Bottom line was I had the most up to date software (AE) already. They re-flashed before I got to go in the back, unfortunately. That same day and hour they killed another persons PCM trying to do a re-flash on it. I was in the waiting area with them.
  13. Ya, I mis-wrote that. I have both tuners -- I said on the side, because the smarty sits in the floorboard of my truck mostly for troubleshooting & what not. I bought it because everybody was Smarty this and smarty that, so I guess I had to see what it was all about. It does feel smoother than the Edge. Before I did a bunch of upgrades, my truck came with the old monochrome Edge Juice unit which I noticed had way better topend than the Smarty. The Smarty felt like the bottom end was definitely better. Now with this new Edge Juice Comp on there, the bottom end is a lot stronger, and it retains that "edge" topend, but perhaps the bottom is still a hair less fat than Smarty's. Perhaps. I like how you can command less than stock fueling /w your quad tunes. That's awesome. I also do a lot of reading (and just opened up 9 more articles from the repository of write-ups you guys did & have posted here) -- so I had seen your Quad v2 with and without tunes video from some posts on Cumminsfourm, as much as I despise that forum. I read all about MM3 on Duramax tuner, then saw the big CF thread where they talk about no actual results & the high high price tag. To pull fueling commands lower than stock, perhaps I could try the Smarty 1/2 HP tune with the edge stacked on top of it. My current edge has the lowend fueling 1-5 option, timing 1-5 option, and power levels 1-7. Sounds stupid, definitely not optimal, but to dump more money into this truck right now for a quad just isnt in my budget. Not for another year I must say. Soon in November I have to move from Montana to Virginia, so I'll be going from 3200' elevation to sea level, so that will help some. Before then I plan to tow a 30' trailer with this truck & all my stuff across the 2400mi trip.. So the driveability of this truck is definitely important, or vital rather. My Reman VP that came on the truck when I bought it which has been wiretapped since I bought it, idles just as smooth as the brand new II VP44 std output pump I just bought. I had the reman VP44 on there, threw the II VP44 on, then threw the reman VP44 back on. What I saw for sure was 28PSI with std output VP44 pump maxed out /w edge juice comp. Smarty stack did not a thing more (did that just for troubleshooting). With the old pumped wire tapped I went right back to the 38-42psi max. II says if I send the std output pump back, I can upgrade to the hotrod pump for the difference minus a $40-$60 fee to recalibrate the pump Im sending back. Seems to me like more fuel is what this truck needs to get the boost levels Im expecting. Bigger injectors doesnt seem to be the ticket, but I cant say for sure until I throw these 120's back in since I've fixed drive pressure & boost leaks as of recent. Ofcourse my common sense tells me the hotrod pump will make it idle rougher and even more smokey. My hopes are that it can light the chargers quicker and easier, making for a cleaner burn way earlier in the powerband. And ofcourse I cant choose to run it with the 50hp injectors. That's why I really want to get this wastegate business sorted, to make sure my chargers are atleast spinning up optimally. I've tried an S475 with a 1.10 exhaust housing, and a 1.32 housing that's on it now, and I lost a couple points in boost. Went from like 46-48psi max boost down to 40-42psi max boost. The midrange power I lost felt neglegant, and the motor sounds like it breathes even smoother and comes even more to life in the topend. Ofcourse topend isnt what I'm neccessarily after, but it felt like what I gained was more than what I lost going to the 1.32 housing. Much to my surprise. I'd have to do a 1.10 housing swap on the same day again to re-evaluate my statements there.
  14. Just read the first sentence of your post. Sorry to mislead you, Im pretty **** at writing. Im not stacking the tuners.
  15. I agree, even with all new sensors across the entire truck things still seem hokey. For some reason another thread led me to believe the PSG is what needed unlocked, so I had hoped to help dump its contents, perhaps decrypt em and then it sounds like another member or two here would have potentially been interested in modifying them. Is the PSG a 12bit system or is the canbus? Either way.. no point in trying to revent the wheel when Smarty has figured out the ECM fueling tables. Here's an interesting page that shows the eeprom at the bottom: http://www.remmington.info/testrepairs.html Based on this quote here, it leads me to believe the Bosch test benches could make our pumps fuel harder, but they dont because then Bosch would be compromising their name/emissions/reliability of the unit. From "Info about Reprogramming: http://www.remmington.info/edc diesel pump.htm Nice breakout shot of the pump on this page: http://www.remmington.info/pump-numbers.htm Anyways, thats a shame the Sweedish guy went away. There's a lot of super bright minds out there. I've found the DDP injectors to be really smokey and an overall let down. It's had me chasing drivepressure leaks, boost leaks, tunes, wastegate settings, almost anything I can do to make them drive cleaner. Ofcourse I should have gone quadzilla, but I got the new Edge Juice Comp tunes and I have a smarty so-3. Just today I plumbed in a regulator for the wastegate, but I think the arm's length is what really needs tuned most. I have a sensor between the S475 and 62SXE. Im getting like 18 psi out of the S475 when Im seeing 38psi overall under WOT. I figure thats pretty good? Overall the most boost I can generate is 42psi with 50hp injectors. That was the most I could generate with 120hp injectors too.. so I think something is up. The injectors went back, I spoke with Lenny and he personally checked em out. He raised the pop pressure 5 bar higher for a little cleaner burn and said they were fine. Who makes a better injector? My idea was to have the engine overbuilt. I'd like to see 600hp, but at this point I care more about driveability, smoke, and a good power curve than peak numbers. Cutting off all flow to the wastegate seemed to do almost nothing, I think my boost raised to 42psi from 38 or 40, but really it jumps around from 38-42PSI at WOT just depending on when the drive pressure ramps up it seems. I have a drive pressure gauge and Im seeing anywhere from 32 PSI to 44 PSI of drive pressure when I'm WOT. Looking at my Edge logs now, on my trip to Kalispell to adopt my new doggies, my max boost with max fueling at WOT was 39PSI. So when I saw 42PSI today with the wastegate closed off via the regulator I just put in, that probably was a legit 3PSI gain. The highest drive pressure I show is 44psi while overall boost is 38psi; the lowest drive pressures whilst at (almost) max boost is drive pressure at 31psi when boost is 37psi, or 33psi drive when boost is 38psi. Im sure you can tell I'm all over the place learning how to tune this thing. It seems to me like my 0.80ar housing almost negates the need for the wastegate to be open..... I dont know why Im not seeing higher pressures from my turbos I think the first person to read this would say I need more fuel, but I had the same overall max boost with the DDP 120's in. But since then I resealed the stg2 billet manifold, because it was leaking air like an SOB, and I also had a big drive pressure leak at the hot pipe. The truck drives a lot better, and the 50's went in when I fixed those leaks. So I probably need to put these 120's that just got back, back in, however the smoke I can still lay down with 50's in with just the Edge juice tuner on 5, 6 or 7 makes me not want to install em.. Im going to shorten the wastegate rod, just waiting for the truck to cool down, so the WG opens later, not as much, and I'll also make sure its cracking around 20-25psi. Im starting to feel like a 12cm housing on the 62/68SXE is the only way to get less smoke. If I take fuel away from it via my foot or less low end fueling, or a lower fueling setting from the Edge, it makes lighting the chargers a real slouch. I want to be able to light the chargers with a minimal amt of smoke, not a giant cloud. Much of the time I think its the damn trans being in 4th gear at 30mph, not downshifting to 2nd unless I put my foot 50% into the pedal. To make it not short shift on initial takeoff I have to be 40-60% into the pedal so it revs out and puts air to the chargers, but doing so mostly seems to make a smoke show unless I get lucky and apply the throttle just, just right. Or the sun lines up with the moon or whatever it be.
  16. Hey guys, I cant find the thread I was reading where you all were talking about the PSG being the actual 65HP limitation /w the smarty or non wire tap programmers on the vp44. I got interested and I found a lot of info out there, primarily some french guys where I used google to translate. showing clips to read the 24 series eeprom with 3M clips. They eventually caught on that you could put 5v to one of the legs on the chip and make it no longer read-only (this is common, and I suspected it). Because their forum is invite only I couldnt download their diagrams or documentation they created. I also found some Indian website that showed how to read/write to the PSG /w an arduino, including wiring diagrams and so fourth. I cant find that in my history now either, but its in there somewhere. Anyways, here's the french lads that tackle read/write to the PSG. Every time they say "code", i think they mean "encrypted". I tried to join the French board but it seems to be invite only. https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tlemcen-electronic.com%2Fforum%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D12157 So bottom line is, I think we could read & write from the eeprom. The question is who is going to modify the code. I know somebody was saying it was encrypted, and that wouldnt surprise me, but it sounded like the french lads were pulling it encrypted. If we could find out what it's encrypted with, and we rented some Amazon AWS servers, run a linux shell to brute force it or rainbow table it, whatever it be. I have to guess that 1998 encryption schemes would be very crackable these days. The Geforce 1080 is no joke /w 2x the power of the 980 and half the power consumption. I saw 3M connectors to read from it without taking it off the board. It sounds like they wrote to it by enabling 5v on the correct pin/leg of the chip (I dont know which exactly b/c I couldnt get to their attachments), but soldering a new one on /w a fresh flash is something I imagine could be more convenient. I did come across pin diagrams for the chip on either their site or another. I dont know if you'd have to take the 5v away from it after the write, but by the way they talked it didnt sound like it. Hard to tell through translation, though. Other interesting links: https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.vp44diesel.de/de/pumpen-vp44-psg-16&prev=search http://codecard.eu/carprog/software/by-obdii-for-opel-psg16-diesel-pump-read/repair-mileage-read-pin-reset-ecu/prod_375.html I requested an invite code, see post #6 here http://mhhauto.com/Thread-zafira-pump-psg16-replacement-and-programming Cheapest place I have seen carprog http://www.ecutool.com/CARPROG-FULL-with-all-Softwares-Activated-and-all-21-Adapters_8243.html#5 Essentially I recently became knee deep in this hobby. I have a 98.5 24v /w D&J motor built to 700hp spec /w CNC'd head on intake & exhaust, 62/68/0.80 + S475/96/1.32 twins, currently running 50hp inectors /w new Edge Juice Comp with smarty SO3 on the side. I have 120hp DDP injectors next to me that just got backfrom warranty, which Lenny looked at personally. The first time around Brian handled it. I've spent a lot of time fixing drive pressure and boost pressure leaks, I think they are 99% sorted based on the performance I'm feeling. I need to do another boost test leak. More on things: 5" down pipe, mishi rad & intercooler, banks monster intake, blah blah. Still only seeing 43lbs of boost. Without the wiretap I only saw 28 psi max on a brand new Industrial Injection VP44. After putting my old pump back on, that is wiretapped, I once again saw 43psi. This is what enlightened me to the necessity of having proper fueling. I'm so far into this VP44 platform now that I wont be switching to CP3, unfortunately. Got it all mated to a Firepunk Comp I in a ext cab LB chassis. I paid some guys to work on my truck and was so let down that I learned the hard way, the only way is to do it yourself. I come from a background of computers and dirt bikes. My dad was a firmware/software/hardware engineer who came to the US from Australia. Due to him being an alcoholic I wouldnt waste my time asking for his advice, but once upon a time he was very smart knowing low level stuff like assembly (programming), layers to protocols, making PCB's, soldering them all up, programming them all up, etc. Credit card readers & bill acceptors seemed to be his bread and butter primarily. Also some assembly line stuff like productivity displays, etc. For roughly 20 yrs he worked solo as his own contractor. Perhaps this could lead somewhere? I'm considering sending back my II VP44 for a hodrod pump, seeing as my tapped reman VP44 that came on the truck is running just as good & better with the wiretap. I had previously bought the new std output VP44 from II as a method to troubleshoot a hard-start condition when (almost) eveyrthing else had been tried. Turned out to be a drive pressure leak @ the 90* hot pipe connecting the turbos -- I fixed it, and the truck starts as it should. Sorry if this is in the wrong section.