LegendaryKing

I don't know that you will see a power difference between the two. You may see transitional differences in environments that differ from where the truck was originally tuned. That is wholey dependent on how/what maps the quadzilla uses. From my VERY limited perusal quadzilla seems to hit the global adder tables. Nothing wrong with that at all! Just not my preference as sometimes additional resolution helps with those transitions. What is the stock injector size in my 01 HO? I would like to match the performance/specs of the current generation cummins trucks, maybe exceed it by a tad. That is why I really like the work you did with the arduino VGT turbo. Double the current power of the truck, but keep it in an OEM range. ;)

I just signed up. Thanks for the information. The learning curve shouldn't be that difficult. I haven't looked at the software yet, but so long as the necessary tables are available in the software than just about anything is possible. I have a lot of history tuning OEM computers, standalone computers, and piggy back tuners. You guys hit my weakness with pure kryptonite by showing me the smarty udc! I just may keep the VP. We'll see after I look through the software. Thanks!

What parameters can you datalog in the smarty? Not what tunes, which maps can you adjust? Base fuel? Altitude fuel? Injector slope? Torque management? etc etc etc. What is actually available to modify in my truck? The reason I asked about a minimum injector duration is multi-fold but can be summed up quickly. If you can only command a max of "X" duration simply increase the size of the injector to add the fuel you want at that "X" duration. Then adjust the duration of injector pulsewidth down everywhere else thereby eliminating the whole wiretap. The problem with this is being able to control the injector at short duration such as idle. Depending on the cc/physical attributes of an injector depends on how quickly it can open and close and what the minimum amount of fuel you can inject. Not being live isn't a deal breaker, but it does extend tuning time. Test & data-log, change, test & data-log to confirm changes had the outcome you desired.

Ok, wow. So many questions. Wire tap simply increases injector duration (pulsewidth) beyond the maximum duration the VP44 will allow. Is there a minimum duration for the VP44? Is the smarty live? In other words if I make a change in the map does it affect what is going on right now? If it is live, does it show the live cell it is operating in? If it is not live does it provide dataloging? What maps does the smarty provide?

That is phenomenal. How do I get that tuner? Is that available right now? We do the same thing on gasoline engines with regards to ignition timing and load. The question I would have is how do you perform this type of tuning on a diesel. With a gasoline engine I pump up the ignition timing until the power plateaus then I know I'm a good few degrees away from detonation. With an engine that runs on cylinder pressure combustion I'm curious how we can do that.

It sure did get a bad name. The internet hates it, and every fleet diesel mechanic I know hates it from their personal experience. I'm seeking knowlege before I jump head first into this and this forum is doing an EXCELLENT job of providing information and for that I am thankful. So, once you got the timing correct for your truck, there was no difference between a VE and VP44? The only difference was the VP44 was easier because mechanical timing is difficult to set? I'll be honest, I didn't realize the VP44's had dropped that much in price. $950 isn't too unreasonable. VE connects to factory lines via an adapter. ~$20 Injectors don't factor into the price of the swap in my circumstance IMHO. I'm going to have to do injectors anyway for the power I want to make no matter what pump is on the truck. Stock injectors just aren't going to cut it. Why would I need a cam gear? Overflow/Fuel Pressure regulator $46 new. Timing case would be used, no need to go new on that. Pump should be new. What can Smarty UDC touch do for the VP44 trucks?

I would like to discuss cost. From what I understand cost for a VE pump would be less than a VP44 pump over the expected service life of the pump. Upfront costs of the swap may be more depending on how you install and with what parts you utilize. EX: Costs dramatically increase with cam removal instead of cam gear removal. Costs increase with billet timing cases and tuned high performance VE pumps. Either way, this is something I would like to plan out and have all the facts in hand before a decision is made and a project is started. So please do not hesitate to add more information to this thread with regards to cost. Agreed 100% that any mechanical or electrical part has a service life and can fail at any time including during that expected good service life. Though regular maintenance, and preventative maintenance replacing worn parts or parts that are nearing the end of their expected service life mitigates that risk to what I believe is an acceptable rate. From what I have read the VP44 has a short expected service life, and a possible long service life if you take care of it a specific way. That VP44 long service life is an outlier where a VE service life is well documented. The VE pump has a long expected service life which in high performance use is double the "maybe possible" service life of a VP44. My state doesn't have yearly inspections. The only inspection is at purchase and bi-yearly smog checks don't include diesel vehicles.

No emissions for diesel trucks here.

First, I want to thank everyone in this thread, the knowledge sharing is GREATLY appreciated. Next I'm going to ask more n00b questions so please bare with me. So, fuel economy approx equal to VP44 is achievable, so there is no advantage to the VP44 there. I will lose diagnostics, however I believe the diagnostics of the VP44 are strictly related to how the electronics in the pump are performing, now how well the pump is performing. Is that correct? You are 100% correct, the horror stories have me worried about being on the side of the road in the middle of know where with a truck full of kids and our trailer. Thanks for the articles, all of those will be implemented. I currently run 2 cycle and notice a difference. The electrical system will be upgraded substantially. I'm curious about "filtration". I have read in numerous places that the 01/02 fuel filter can't be beat. Is there contrary information to this? How do I find out which cruise control I have? A shop that replaced the ABS unit knocked off a vacuum line and I lost cruise control. Does that help identify which I have? So the only advantage to a VP44 is the ability to electronically tune and raise and lower hp with the touch of a button. Is there something I'm missing about raising and lowering the power level? Why is this desirable? This is not a "smart ***" question, I genuinely don't know if there is something I'm missing. I appreciate the response! Good to know. Thanks! Good to know. Thanks! Again, I appreciate the insight you guys are providing!

Thank you for the information. I'm still trying to learn Cummins/Diesel vocabulary and I have a few questions. 1. Timing cover, is this just the face plate cover or is this the entire timing case? 2. Overflow valve, is this a fuel pressure regulator? If so is a dodge specific "overflow valve" required or can I just use a regulator of my preference? Thank you for the reply from someone that has done the VP to VE 24v swap. Why is the quadzilla and VP44 far more desirable to drive? What am I going to lose in the VP44 removal? If a VE pump can provide the fuel requirements I need to make the power I want, why would I need more volume? This is the first I have heard of a VP equaling the reliability of a VE. I'm not saying it's not true, I'm just saying this is the first I have heard of it. Is there any more information out there confirming this new information? Thanks!

After talking with Richard over at GDP I don't need to run the Cummins 12v in block fuel pump that runs off the cam, I can just use the Fuel Boss I already have or any electric pump that can supply the volume/pressure with an external regulator. In fact, if I wanted to go P-Pump I could use the lift pump I already have (Fuel Boss). This GREATLY reduces the amount of work I have to do and I'm super excited about this.

Truck: 2001 1 ton Quad Cab 4x4 6 speed HO 24v 5.9 VP44 140k miles So far the only mod is a Diamond Eye 4” stainless exhaust Philosophy of use: Truck is to be a safe and reliable daily driver. Truck will also be used to tow a small camper short and long distances. Reliability, fuel economy, and towing capability with low EGT’s are more important than a large dyno number. Goal: Reliable 24v in the 400-500hp range (Number is less important than a good running truck). Removal of the VP44 for a more reliable system. (non negotiable) Possible recipe: Fuel Boss lift pump VE Fuel Pump w/ dynamic timing Unknown Injector (TBD) BHAF HE351VE with Arduino (open to other turbo recommendations but like the idea of a fast spooling VNT that can perform on the top end as well) Questions: Does the VE swap require a cam gear and timing case like the PPump? Or is it just the VE gear and 1st gen cover? (Basically a pump swap) I have yet to see this swap on an 01-02 truck. Are there any issues that I will see with this truck as opposed to older trucks? I read something about crank sensors?h Will the 1st gen cover simply bolt onto the 01-02 trucks? No issues with harmonic balancer? What are the differences in VE pumps? I see recommendations are all over the place. Intercooled? Non intercooled? 12mm? 14mm? Lift pump pressures? What is right for my truck? Why? Will the HE351VE w/ Arduino supply enough air for the low EGT/safe power I’m looking to make? What injector should I run with that turbo/fuel pump? What pop pressure should I run now that I’ll be running a VE pump instead of a VP? Why? THANKS!

Howdy, I was testing your aim, and everyone that made it in has passed my initial evaluation. There will be more evaluations to come. ... I joined the forum due to the shear mountain of proven and documented knowledge I was able to quickly and easily find. Every time I was looking for some piece of information one of the ambassadors to this forum was answering the question without the usual forum BS and opinion injection/thread derailment. After continuing to hit the same few members screen names over and over on multiple forums it seems their culmination of knowledge resides on this website ... so I joined. I recently purchased a 100% stock 2001 2500 HO 6 speed 4x4, quad cab, 8' bed, camper package, 1 ton ram from a friend whom was the original owner. I replaced some worn out suspension components, the rotted factory exhaust from the turbo back with a 4" stainless unit, new calibers, rotors, pads and e-brake shoes. Changed all the engine fluids and filters and started running 2 stroke oil in the fuel. 2 years ago the VP44 and lift pump was replaced. I don't know which factory units are installed as of yet (HO/SO;In tank/External). I have just started the shakedown runs as the truck sat for 2 years prior to me purchasing it ... yes it had extreme moss growth on the outside (inside was clean). So far I have put ~3 tanks of fuel through the truck. Current issues: Steering Noise (this thing is LOUD inside ... sound insulation to come this winter/spring) Future upgrades include: Fuel Boss Lift Pump with sump and big line kit (already purchased) Drive-train fluid change with transmission cooler (PTO covers) High capacity fuel tank (not purchased) 6.7 Turbo (arduino association has me fascinated, not purchased) Injectors (still trying to learn more about this subject) Some sort of custom tune (the smoke a mirrors of this subject is funny to me) Clutch (factory clutch is still installed) My goal is to make safe and reliable power with my truck. That balance doesn't yet have a number ... it will be what the "system" can support. The truck will be used to tow a soon to be purchased pop-up camper, make hardware store/mulch/dump runs, and cart the family around on weekends when ever they want to ride around in "the big truck". Right now we car/tent camp and we wanted to upgrade. I think I bought a MOAB to kill a fly ... but I figure we will grow into the truck instead of out of a smaller truck. Thanks for the information you have already provided. Hopefully I can answer a question or two for you giving back to the community.