John T

Well, I was doing some other stuff on my truck the other day. It was one of those rare occasions where I had my wife available to help me, so I decided to really investigate this leak proper-like.She was turning the steering wheel while I investigated with a good light.Lo and behold I found a tiny pinhole leak in the pressure hose. Only visible when the light reflected off of it and only when she was turning the wheel.Long story short, 1 new pressure hose and 20 dollars later I seem to be leak free.

I'm still living with this leak, adding fluid every week or so.I was under the truck yesterday and saw it's not the pump that's leaking it's the steering box.Does the same advice still apply?.. replace the unit?Parts store has seals etc for less than $20 but a steering box is closer to 200$Anybody here ever rebuilt the steering box?Thanks, John

My power steering pump looses fluid. The front of it is always wet with fluid, and it leaves spots under the truck.Any advise on fixing it?Such as: any special tools, level of difficulty, is there a seal kit? etc.Thanks for any help.John

Thanks guys. I may try a little oil, but leave all adjustments as they are. A few more details about my truck: 3/4 ton '96 automatic, not sure of the rear end. KDP fixed thanks to help from you guys. 180k miles. I love my truck:thumb1: --- Update to the previous post... oh yea... 2wd

I just now read about adding 2 cycle oil to my fuel but would like to know more.Seems that most guys doing this own 24 v engines.Mine's 12 v 1996 .. totally stock.Is there anything I need to know before I add 2 cycle oil? I think it was moparman who gave the 128:1 recipe, so I would go with that ratio.Another question: would I gain any MPG by turning my fuel plate back?I know most people are after more power, but my biggest concern is mpg. I'm getting 18-19 just tooling around town.Thanks

May sound weird, but I've often wondered why there is never an A/C freon pressure gauge.

here's a pic of what I have. I was gonna pull out this 11/16" bolt, but see that hose clamp?It prevents a socket from going on the bolt. And its rivetted to the hose so I can't even reposition it. Not a big deal... just one of those things that make you go hmmmmmm.Not really motivated to work on it now anyway, I was just looking at my set-up as I read these posts.I'll try what Mike says about the heater hose.

ok, flushing is done, and new antifreeze added, but I hear water flowing through my heater core.seems to go away after a few minutes driving but returns again after truck sits a while.I see ,from earlier posts, references to bleeding air off,..... what do I need to do for that?

thanks guys.I started out just doing my KDP and it has snowballed into all these other projects!

I constantly have what I think is oil around my injectors. (it doesn't smell like fuel)I'm guessing it's my valve cover gaskets.hopefully these pictures will post and I can get other opinions.I should adjust my valves anyway.

Is the hose going right into the t-stat housing?t-stat housing is not quite as accessible on the 12v. Can't say for sure because I never opened it, but i think I have to remove alternator bracket, then it looks like the t-stat sits horizontal. (i think)As long as the T-fitting method works, I'll probably stick with that.I do have another question ... I think my valve cover gaskets are leaking....but that's for another post.

I used a flushing kit.. you know the kind where you put the T-fitting in the heater hose and then connect a garden hose.After running a bottle of radiator cleaner for a day, I drained and flushed as directed with heater on high.My question is this: while flushing, does the water really cycle through the entire system? I ask because it never really gets hot , and I'm assuming the thermostat never opens.So I'm gonna run straight water for a day, then drain again (maybe do that twice over a couple days)then add my distilled water/antifreeze.Anybody see any problem with this?Thanks, John

I just found these videos and thought they were worth sharing. seems to be quite a few vids in the series. Sorry if It's old news to everybody.

Ok, it's finally done, KDP tabbed, everything reassembled and no leaks.

My gear cover is back on, but I just noticed an instruction that says to put RTV on the threads of all the bolts. I think this is assuming you are using RTV as the gasket.I am using a real gasket, so do I still need RTV? IF so, I have to wait till tomorrow to finish, if not I'll be done today.Sure would hate to start from scratch because of an oil leak.Thanks, John

does this link help? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/910-12V-Part-layout-of-the-engine

thanks for your help guys, see ya tomorrow

I guess i should have included some details, huh?1996 Ram 2500 Auto trans. Totally stock, 188k miles. owned by me for ten years. 150k of those miles are mine.I read where a barring tool is used. Also a large screw driver in the ring gear, but I have no idea how to access that. (remove starter?)I'll see what happens tomorrow.

Finally taking care of my KDP today. I've been aware of the KDP issues for quite a while and always convinced myself "it won't happen to me".After reading over the procedure a couple hundred times it finally seemed less intimidating and I decided to tackle it.Today I got down to the dowel itself and found it firmly seated in it's hole.Tomorrow I'll make the tab and reassemble.One concern is how to keep the engine from turning while torquing the dampener bolts.Any suggestions?John