MtnManMegaCab

That it is, but I'm not one of them.. A) I'm not running 37's, and/or trying to haul heavy with the wrong setup, I tow a 5k lb center console to the coast a few times a year, a fiberglass bass boat <1500lbs, and a horse trailer occasionally that is 8500, so I'm not beating on this truck at all and B) given that this issue isn't across the board and sporadically started happening is what led me to believe it was a failure somewhere else and not a simple obstruction in front of the grill or the tire setup. I was born at night, but it wasn't last night...

Thanks guys, lots of good information. I replaced the Fan Clutch and flushed the coolant and that seems to have fixed it. The coolant was low and had a pretty good air pocket burp when I took the radiator cap off, so I think that had a lot to do with the temps as well. It's running strong again and keeping steady at 190, so I appreciate the insight and help figuring this out and wish you all the best. Thank you

295/70/17's and 190 degree thermostat from AutoZone. Apparently the EGT is not hooked up because the Tuner has Pyro 1 & 2, which to my understanding means they aren't reading anything, but Pyro 1 is reading 300 plus at idle (180 degrees coolant) and the Pyro 2 is reading 90's, but I didnt have those on while running, I usually run the fuel rail pressure, trans temp, and boost... Also, I have noticed it started bubbling after shutoff the past couple of months, not sure if that helps any. The head studs and all work were done before I bought this truck, so I am working blind here somewhat

Hey guys, so a few months ago I was towing the bass boat to the lake and the temp started shooting up on my Cummins (230-240degrees) and then lowering back down. So I immediately replaced the thermostat and no issues for a little while. This past weekend I was on my way back from a road trip with the family and it started doing it again about 10 miles from the house so I just nursed it home and let it cool off. I did some research and thought it might be the electric Fan Clutch, so I replaced that little PITA and took it for a test drive and low and behold it started doing the exact same thing. This is a 2010 Mega Cab Laramie 2500 6.7, deleted and tuned using a H&S mini maxx, and I typically run it on the street tune and not performance, but am not beating on it hard at all. Any help would be appreciated as to what is causing it to run hot. Thanks

Ten fo, that’s what I’m hoping

I did replace them as a pair not even a month ago, and the passenger side tested fine, so just the drivers side was bad.

Alright, got her buttoned up and running like a top. The drivers side battery still wasn't holding a charge good so I went and swapped it out under warranty(1 month old) and once I dropped the new battery and alternator in it she fired right up and everything seems to be as it should. There's a lesson in everything I guess, and troubleshooting know how is probably one of the biggest I have learned to keep from making dealership owners richer. Thanks again and look forward to seeing you guys around.

I did go ahead and have them tested at Advance when I took the alternator up there to have it tested and pick up the new one, so I feel confident I covered *most all of my bases. They are practically brand new, as I replaced the pair that were in it right after I bought the truck and it died the first time. So my guess is, and correct me if I’m wrong, but the bad alternator was contributing to the batteries draining down and not recovering. When I jumped it this morning it ran fine for a short while then the voltage dropped and it sputtered out which lead me to the alternator . There were a ton of voltage related codes on the Tuner so tomorrow I am going to clear them and put it through it’s paces and take it for a test drive.

Hey guys, I appreciate all the help, after troubleshooting with a voltmeter and testing a few options it turned out to be the alternator had crapped out and the batteries had drained pretty significantly. Got them both charged up good and replaced the alternator, so we are back in business. Very good learning experience, and I found this forum in the process so Thanks again.

It does not crank at all, just resets the electronics like the battery doesn't have enough to jump it, but each battery was hooked to a running vehicle and it still wouldn't jump , so I'm charging them now even thought they're only 3 weeks old.It has the Stock, Tow, Street, and Performance tunes but I met the old man that owned it and he had taken relatively good care of it and didn't really beat on it too bad, just got to where he couldn't take care of it. I'll get out there tomorrow and check the tuner for Codes and also do some troubleshooting with a multimeter now that I have familiarized myself with the Starter and Solenoid then get back to you. Thanks again

So I'll start by apologizing for having my first post be a cry for help, but that is pretty much where I'm at. I stumbled upon this forum while doing some research and to get you up to speed, about a month and a half ago I traded in my 2015 Silverado 1500 that ran perfectly fine for what I thought was a good deal on a 2010 MegaCab with a 6.7 that had been deleted, had aftermarket Headstud's, with an H&S Mini Maxx tuner, so about a week an a half of driving it occasionally around town dropped the youngest one off at school and came back top the house to grab something and went to leave and the truck was completely dead, no power at all. I get to looking and the drivers side Positive terminal clamp was beat to hell, cracked, and corroded pretty bad, so I clean them up, jump it off and drive it to the parts store and put a pair of new batteries in it and everything is fine. 3 days later I am driving through town and the radio cuts off, lights and whole dash start flickering and it starts sputtering then loses all power and luckily roll up to my friends driveway. I get it towed home,2 weeks later have a new mil spec bolt on clamp with a ring post made for the Positive cable, the one that runs to the starter solenoid, and put it all back together then go to jump it. The truck powered up and everything was normal on the dash, the Voltage indicator dropped slightly while cycling the plugs, but once it cycled it went right back up to almost 14V but it would never turn over. It sounds to me like the bendix is engaging but it's just not firing at all. I have the batteries hooked up to a charger right now, but what else in the world could it possibly be? By power of deduction I don't think it's the alternator, the fuses look good, and the connections are good so I am stumped. I appreciate any and all help, and apologize for being long winded but I figured you'd want as much info as possible to help troubleshoot as I am about as green as a gooseberry when it comes to Diesel's. Many Thanks, Levi