BART

I'm running 275/75's "E" Range Michelins and I was told by America's Tire to run them at 60psi front and rear. Seems that any lower I have wandering problems. When I put the 9.5' camper on I jump the rears to 80 psi and the front to 70 psi. Plus pump up the air-bags to at least 80psi.I think they run longer a bit harder. Maybe it makes the ride harder but tires last longer. Same for the family car too. Tire shops say 32psi in the car tires so I need to come in more often for new tires... Just my opinion.

Michael- Thanks for your reply. It is as I suspected. I figure I'll direct plumb as you have. Presently I have my fuel pressure gauge coming off of the stock fuel filter assembly via a rubber grease gun hose to the isolator. I am trying to figure out how you have your gauge plumbed? I must admit that I am not nearly an expert on the Cummins (I'm better with Model A Fords). It looks like you have your fuel line directly to the VP44 with the needle valve assembly plumbed into a brass tee. Do you think that I could use some new fuel line as you recommended to come right off of the pressure side of the isolator and go right to the gauge, removing the isolator all together? I would not have the needle valve as you suggest which could be part of my original problem. I guess I could re-plumb my fuel line and bypass the stock fuel filter assembly which is what it appears that you did.Thanks again.Lee

Put a Pricol 0-30psi fuel gauge in when new and it's been fluctuating, especially in hot/warm weather, and pulling hard. The engine runs perfectly without a miss. I have a FASS installed and it produces 15psi steady. I'm suspecting the "isolator", the thingy that's filled with antifreeze. I'm about ready to remove the isolator and run the line directly to the gauge or just bite the bullet and change to an electric gauge. Do these "isolators" have a reputation for failure? Kind of makes me wonder when the pressure jumps around but I'm relying on the FASS to give steady pressure. Thanks. This is my first post here...