deereman01

@Dynamic Went back, pulled the pan and valve body, double checked the band adjustment, etc. Used air to check for leaks in the rear servo port, it strokes the band no problem. Front servo and accumulator are billet upgrades. No other funny stuff in transmission on tear down. Everything else looks right. Reverse just isn't there. Valve body builder says pressures should be 200 at idle to 280 at WOT. I'm seeing 190 at idle, about 200 at 2000 rpm, and then peaks about 240 at WOT. Wondering if I don't have a cracked housing / leak or something. Thoughts? One more thought, then I'll wait for some info. Truck has a derale pan that looks like a Derale 14210 that I'm finding on the internet. How many quarts does this add to a 48RE? What should total drain and refill capacity be? I'm starting to wonder if something is either way over or way underfull? Rebuild, the Derale pan, new torque converter, it took 18 quarts to get to full line. One webpage for the Derale 14210 pan says a 14010 spacer kit required? What would happen if it wasn't installed? (It was never there?)

@RobD That's probably exactly right. My wife was helping put stuff together, and even mentioned that it didn't look right. @Dynamic Trans is reassembled, put back in truck. New valve body, new TC, etc. All new clutch packs, new rear band, new servos, new rear drum. No reverse, even in 4 lo. Any other ideas? I've been through it with a fine tooth comb, and I'm not coming up with anything else. Issue wasn't there before I pulled valve body to put the detent bullet in. Forward pulls fine, all the way from D to manual 1. Havent driven the truck so nothing should be broken yet. Just no reverse. Pressure in reverse port is 190-200 at idle, valve body is a upgrade for a triple disc converter.

@Dynamic Took the trans out, rear band had ground up the rear drum. Also found gasoline clutch packs in the overdrive sections (5 disk instead of 6 per ATSG manual). Got it all rebuilt, and set upright on the workbench, and applied air to the rear servo port through the 1/8 NPT, and I have air leaking between the valve body and the separator plate? Is this probably what caused my issues? Have you seen similiar before?

Just wanted to do a final update on this. Truck has been a daily driver for 90+ days now, no issues. ECM was bad, had it rebuilt over in Florida. The other issues were due to half broken wires in the tilt column, which were repaired. The other issues with low sensor voltage were associated with bad battery cable connections, because after I cut off the original ends, and installed new lugs and military ordinance connectors on the batteries, we've had no further issues. Thanks everyone for the help, and maybe this will help someone in the future.

Next update. Got back under truck to do pressure testing, reverse will build up to about 190 or so, and the trans quits pulling backwards. When you let off, and it gets back under 190, it will surge backwards. Also, did a forward gear pressure test after that, and hooked to a heavy load. Went about 5 feet, and lost all pressure in forward and reverse. Fluid level looks ok, not burnt. No vehicle motion at all now. Any ideas?

Thanks Mopar. Saw Dynamic on here a bunch, seems real knowledgeable. Truck is stock. No tunes. Minor upgrades like Derale deep pan, but best I can tell, no major updates. Old man I bought it from just drove it a little. His son owned it before, and can't remember any major upgrades, mostly just the deep pan for towing his travel trailer.

2006 Ram CTD 4x4 with 48RE, 167,xxx miles. Brought it home with a blown #4 injector line. I know it would pull on the gooseneck with a lot of throttle, and reverse seemed alright, but didn't drive it much. Fixed the fuel line, and on to the trans. Park would hang so bad we thought we would break the column shifter. Previous owner installed Derale pan. Dropped pan, found glittery fluid, pulled valve body, installed Georend bullet detent kit. Reinstalled valve body, and filled with new ATF4, and there's a weak reverse or 1st with engine braking. Put a transducer on the rear servo port, and I'm seeing 180-190 in reverse at 1500 rpm, but the truck still won't pull in 4 low. 1st has no engine braking, pressure ranges from 65 at idle to 70-72 at 1800 rpm. Removed the TTVA, ran the throttle lever around by hand, and pressures go up to 285-290. Drove it around the block, and I have this shudder in forward at really low rpms, and the same shudder in reverse, and it won't back up a slight incline. I turned in the screw under the throttle valve a few rounds, because as my wife would step on the throttle, it wouldn't push the throttle valve in all the way. Pressures came up some, but it still doesn't feel right. Didn't take anything else on the valve body apart except the manual valve to put in the bullet detent, so I'm stumped here. I also made a mistake and didn't gauge the pressures before, since it was only a park detent issue. Anyone have some really good ideas, or is it toast?

ECM is back on truck, I cranked it after load testing all the wires and such. All wires load tested correctly. The only code active now is a P0341. This mean camshaft sensor issue. Camshaft voltage is only 3.8 volts. I understand that it's supposed to be 5 volts, and also understand this could equal week or no signal. I have 2 options. 1) Send ECM back to ACS, and tell them about the issue. 2) I can only find wires 3&4 that supply the 5V to camshaft position going to camshaft position. Is this correct? I could add a buck boost circuit to the 3&4 wires between the ECM and the sensor, and this would bring it up to 5V. Thoughts on each?

ACS just emailed me after repairing the ECM. It's on the way back, and here are their tech notes. Tech Notes: We want to inform you that the ECM that was sent in only does engine functions ( we can not assist with the cruise control issues as for the functions are in the this ECM. Your cruise control, is controlled by the PCM which is located on the firewall (below is attached schematic where the PCM is located). Please refer to our website www.autocomputerspecialist.com for service for your PCM should you need it. Our findings: You unit came in shorted out, your... wait to start circuit, APP pedal, CPU were all in short all was replaced and repaired as well as your pins were reflowed. ( your engine wiring harness is in short!!! What must be done prior to installing repaired unit: You must have repaired your wiring harness, battery and terminals replaced. All short in truck must be repaired. Make sure all parts replaced are OEM (mopar) parts are a MUST! All Problem in truck must be tended to prior to installing repaired unit ( failing to do so will result in shorting out the unit and it will not be covered under warranty. What ideas do you guys have to check before reinstalling the ECM. No major issues were found with wiring shorted to something, but we could have other issues. Do I need to pull the engine harness off the truck? Anyone with some sound technician advice here?

I have an update. His ECM started throwing the same codes on my truck that it was on his. the 577, 1475, etc. Swapped back to my ECM, ran it about 750 miles over the weekend, no issues whatsoever. Contacting a recommended ECM rebuilder now. Also will check under his steering column for stretchy wires. Will report back after I get his ECM on his truck and running.

That's an idea. I could see something like that happening. Say however, that I put his ECM back on his truck, and the ECU 343, 1475, 577, 1286, & 123 are back active. What advanced diagnostics steps would the rest of you take? Reason I'm asking, I didn't realize the cruise on the 2001 manual doesn't use the TPS at all. It's 100% fly by wire between the (whatever runs the cruise) and the ECM/VP44. This was new to me, cause I thought they used vacuum and the APPS. I learned something completely new after reading on this last night. When his truck throws those 5 codes, it kicks the cruise off and dead pedals for an indeterminate period of time. What correlation do those sensors have with 5V power? I've heard that all 5V sensors on this engine use the same source, but then I see multiple sensor grounds and different sensor voltage sources. (All data taken from the Ram factory service manual, but I may have misread, feel free to correct.)

Codes pulled with key, and then I verified them with a OBDII code puller later. Does this not constitute checking the alternator for AC noise? Also, why does his ECM have different codes when bolted onto my truck? he never had a 0121 code before, and none of the others came up when it was on my truck?

Neighbor and I have matching 2001 24V 4x4 HO 6 speed trucks. Axle ratio and paint color are only difference. Both are bone stock, his has 150,000 or so miles, mine has 440,000 and has been run much harder. About a month ago, he sent me some DTC's he pulled with the Key. They were: ECU 343, 1475, 577, 1286, 123. Truck has dead pedal and resorts to idle only at times. I checked alternator, VAC voltage with Fluke DVM is 0.023 VAC at idle, rising to 0.031 at 2000 rpm on road. (I have the one with the detach wireless screen.) 2 weeks later, codes were: ECU 118, 113, 606, 577, 343, 1475, 1286, 123. Went into ECU harness, found wire #11 rubbing the clamp and corroded. Repaired the wire with a proper splice and heat shrink, he ran the truck about 200 miles, and then we have ECU 343, 1475, 577, 1286, 123. He idled it over into a free stall in my lean to, and I put his ECM on my truck. His ECM won't drive my pump as hard (I think mine was Smarty tuned or something 10 years ago, haven't really done much but change oil and put fuel in it.). The truck is a little slower, but other than that, no major issues. Ran his ECM about 250 miles or so, and pulling back into my driveway, it hiccuped a hair, threw a ECU 121 code, and sputtered a bit. Gonna run it a bit more, but not sure what that was about. Ideas? I run a Scan Gauge on my truck, freeze frame data showed the TPS at 56% when the 121 code went active. No other issues. I was leaning towards ECM dying, but it just runs too good on my truck. Thinking he has a wiring harness issue somewhere else or a dying sensor, but everything ohms out ok when I'm looking at it.