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ctxj90

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  1. Dripley- You were correct, I'm pretty sure I was probing the wrong post on the alternator. This bothered me all day yesterday at work and didn't make sense to me, so I retested everything when I got home before I went to the parts store. 14.3 DC at the alternator with .028 v AC Also yes, it's a 47RE. I'm really batting 1000 here....
  2. Yessir, I read your article and watched your video as well. I tested mine exactly how you tested yours, only my b+ terminal was located slightly higher on the alternator case. I was confused by it showing only 10.5 volts charging while my batteries are showing good voltage. My meter is a similar vintage to yours and clearly showed ~7.06 on the AC setting. Dripley, I checked it several times because I didn't believe what I was seeing myself
  3. B+ terminal on the alternator to passenger side neg post on the battery, truck warmed up, no grid heaters cycling.
  4. ctxj90 changed their profile photo
  5. Hey everyone, I currently have the 3rd gear/lockup issue that seems to be common with these trucks. I installed and set up a new TPS last winter, and cleaned all the grounds which didn't solve the issue. Eventually I caved and bought a noise filter, which made everything work great for about 4 months. However, I noticed that with the filter hooked up, when I let off the throttle at highway speed, the TC didn't unlock and bring the RPM's back down to ~1k like before. Instead it held and would engine brake the way a manual trans would, unless I hit the brake pedal, or went below about 40mph. But aside from that, things worked fine, no shifting back and forth like before. Yesterday, the 3rd/Lockup shifting problem came back. I spent a few hours last night reading through the info on the site and did some testing with a good fluke multimeter today after work. My battery voltage is around 14.2 with the truck running, but the alternator is only putting out 10.5v DC. When I switched the meter to AC it showed 7v. From some of the other threads I've found, it seems that maybe the meter automatically switches to mv? If so would this be enough AC voltage to cause a problem? Obviously if it's actually putting out 7v then there is something seriously haywire going on. Appreciate the help, sorry for the long winded post.