Akaiser21

Well I posted some overheating issues a while back and one of your recommendations was to go to smaller tires. Well I ended up putting the stock wheels on with 285/70/16 to give it a shot. I also dropped injector size assuming that wasn't helping the situation lol. I had to put a new snap ring on before I left. While pulling my 5th wheel not even touching 5th gear for the sake of myself I still lost it. 3:54 Gears also. Sorry I missed that

I will for sure. Ill call ATS and see what they say. Ill be getting the parts from them anyways since Im close by. Ill post what information they tell me

Well I know I didn't get to that kind of number. I called a local transmission shop and the told me 320-350 would be more then plenty. I used a 1/2" breaker and a cheater and gave it what I could. I will get it as tight as possible next time and hopefully to will hold up. Each time Im in there I make sure it hasn't loosened up but I will give it a shot and attempt to get into that range. I also have the upgraded main shaft, locking nut and I installed the splined locker that keys into the nut. Ill give her the onion!!

Hey everyone, So where do I start.. So about 30,000 miles ago I had a transmission built for my truck since my last one imploded. This transmission has never "felt right." The problem I'm having is as you probably guessed it 5th gear loss. What keeps happening is I keep losing the countershaft retainer (snap ring.) This is a 1999 dodge and I do that the thicker version of this snap ring. I have replaced this 4 times now. Which is getting expensive due to gear oil prices. I have had just about enough of this failure. Has anyone found a reason why this happens? What I have checked is 5th gear nut tightness, splines and just the usual over look of everything there. What I haven't checked is end play. Not real sure how to correct this if it is end play. Im hoping to tear into this this weekend if I can get all the parts in on time. On the verge of swapping this for a g56.

I would have to look to be able to tell you what exactly I have it set at. I do know that I have changed a lot of stuff the last dyno runs due to my injector sizing. The last time I pulled it I reverted to stock tube parameters and pulled on level 5 which worked well. Any lower then that my timing get off and I have a harder time getting a quick spool resulting in EGT run away

Well I took the tires off my old ‘79 Ford to try it. I mean I could just go out and buy a whole other set of wheels and tires for troubleshooting. My torque curve to my Dyno specs are not as low as the stock form. I build boost and start pulling hard 1800 rpm. I peak 1200ftlbs at 2600. I think it’s right in its torq range. The trans is an ATS built 4500. (Junk to be honest) the should we’re almost like when you lug a 3 gen 6 speed. Almost like I was about to fry a clutch. I’ll keep my 35” tires on it. Works just fine. Temps are good now.

Ok guys so here is my update to my fix. With all the suggestions I have decided to try each one. I kept my toy hauler loaded full. 37' Toy hauler 100ga water full, XP1000 RZR, 2 dirt bikes and all the other crap you can get in one for spending long weekends. For trial sake I pulled the same 28mi route hard, to generate as much heat to see if I could get this problem resolved. 1. I put on my manifold blanket and wrapped my turbos. What I noticed about my under hood heat was a good reduction of my IAT. I would be able to see about 145 to 150. Im now seeing 125-130 on a 85* day! That helps! 2. Attempted to pull fan clutch off my truck and broke every rental pulley holder I could put my hands on lol. I wanted to test if the valve was opening and at what temp... this was left on hold till I could build a custom holder. I even tried an air hammer with some heat. haha she was on there.. 3. While waiting on that I put the stock size wheels and tires on it (245 75 16). Now empty I could burn these tires to the ground if I wanted due to reduced size and weight... but when pulling the camper in 4th I would be at 50-55 mph at 2300 to 2500 rpm. When I threw it into 5th I could hear my trans start to wine and growl. My engine torq look would be at nearly 75% when trying to accelerate to 65mph. With that being said I would rather be a little slower getting to highway speeds and be able to stay in 4th at 65mph at 2300 rpm. My torq load is only at 45% max when pulling hills. Much nicer and easier on the truck. BUT I was still overheating. So, my as stated my "pretty" tires are back on!!!!!!! THE SOLUTION- I finally got the fan clutch off. Lost some blood and patience over it but I got it. I put a Hayden Severe duty clutch on. I can hear the fan now!!! I could hear it before in 1st and 2nd before and I think a little in 3rd.. was never load. Now I can hear it in every gear! You do have to be listening for it in 4th and 5th or you'd never hear it over road noise. I pulled the same route and did not get any hotter there 203. It was cooler that day so I came to a stop on a hill and started back off and short shifted each gear to force my motor to work HARD! I ran my EGTS to 1200 for almost 3 minutes straight. Still never got any hotter!! Thank you everyone for your advice!

That’s what I’m thinking! I’m going to see about getting one of these!

I’ll probably just get a napa fan clutch since I don’t have all the choices where I live lol. Has anyone tried out the plastic fan similar to the 3rd gen? https://www.genosgarage.com/product/dodge-ram-cummins-replacement-cooling-fan-fan9402/fan-clutch

I will Be looking into swapping to a 285 tire here soon as possible. It would help me I'm sure. I only get hot when pulling long grades and when on flat or mild ground with the trailer on I only see about 28% engine load 2 190* (quadzilla PV2). I do understand what you are saying for sure. I never pull in over drive due to how weak 5th gear is and like I said my truck seems pretty content at 2-2200 rpm. I have my old stocker wheels on the other truck of mine. Ill swap back and see how it does. I haven't ever gotten my truck that hot until that day. It was about 80 degrees out and I was pulling pretty hard. I evened up in 3rd towards the top. Good to know that you have hear your fan at higher speeds. I will be swapping mine out just to give it a go. Im sure it weighs way more with it loaded. It claims to be 9,000 lbs "dry." With everything loaded Im guessing to be around 13k. I bought this water pump from my local cummins dealer. Its calmed to be on their heavy equipment version of the 5.9. I honestly don't know if I'm flowing too fast. I have had this pump on for close to a year and haven't had any difference in performance. Engine temps always normal and never over cooling/ over heating... until I pulled heavy lol... I know my egts were getting a touch far and am planning on taking control of that . My radiator looks as good as new. I relocated my breather tube to dump back behind the motor. Sick of the mess! Also no dirt or other debris caked on. Thank you everyone on their input. My plan is to reduce my injector size to 100Hp over stock, change fan clutch for the sake of doing it, run with smaller tires and do myself some heat wraps. I'll give that a go and let everyone know what the difference is. If I still have the issues I might looking into a mishimoto radiator.

See I wish my fan was close to the same size as a 3rd gen. I also wish I could control mine. On a previous 2nd gen I had dual electric fans and the sucked for heavy pulling, that option is out the window. It came on it when I bought it. But it would be nice to hear the fan roar. I have only heard it come alive a few times in the 8 years I’ve owned it and all at very low speeds

mopar1973man- first thing I want to say thank you for your site!! This has helped me more then anything. Plus your 3cyl high idle switch is the BEST!!! I made a janky set up a few years back but swapped it with yours to cut back the amount of toggle switches I have haha also I modified it to fit my POD on my pillar looks clean! -back to the topic. I figured my egts and engine temp were corralated to some extent. Im going to swap back to 100HP injectors to calm my egts and if that doesn't help Ill get my hands on some water/meth. It sucks to have an engine load of 41% and not be able to use the rest! ~AH64ID Im running about 30% coolant with come conklin Coolant lube. Im trying to find the bottle but basically its "supposed" to supplement all the lubricants in antifreeze so you can run water. I also didn't have a choice due to time line. That was my quick fix. I do hear my fan operating in 1st and 2nd gear. Nothing past that. I heard that it doesn't operate past that speed due to ram air being more efficient. Please correct me if that is wrong. I due have some heat wrap/ turbo blankets to do everything but haven't had the time.

Hey sorry about that misinformation it has 3.54 gears. I pull on 4th usually around 2200 rpm. That’s where my truck usually seems happiest. I have 35s on it now for tires while in a way helps me stay around 60-65 in 4th without spending too much time in high RPMs. I wasn’t too worried about it getting to 225. But I also would like to keep it a little cooler lol

Hey guys, just reaching out before I start spending some money. I have a 2nd gen dodge 5speed 3.73 gears with mild build. I recently bought a 37’ toy hauler that weighs close to 9,000lbs empty. I live in Colorado and when I tow this thing is usually over some pretty serious passes. As summer is here I’m struggling keeping my engine temps under control. I do have a high flow water pump, new oem replacement radiator and 190* thermostat. While pulling up RIO with my RZR in the trailer I got a little out of control on my temps. Probably 225*. My EGTs were getting a little hot at about 1250. My truck was getting hotter sooner with my antifreeze/water ration about 70/30. I took some advice from my father who ran heavy duty diesels for 20plus years and am running 25/75. As he said it will still get hot but not as quick. He was right. Anyone done anything to their truck to keep the temps down that actually worked while pulling heavy? I’m guessimg my truck and trailer combo was close to 24,000lbs when loaded.