charro

No tuner, i have 600 miles on new engine, injectors have 189k, im suspecting the same because im getting 9 miles per gallon. I used the same injectors because i had them tested at local diesel lab. Just replaced map sensor today and its the same.

No codes

Just plugged computer and checked live data, throttle actuator (DC %) varies from -29 to -27 with truck off, key on, no pedal pressure.

Good evening, recently my 2006 ram 2500 started with problems on the way it accelerates, truck is steady at idle and when pedal is being pushed, the problem occurs when i release the pedal, the truck stays at high rpm and goes down in pauses. Any one had this isues?? Replaced pedal and sensor today and no results. Thanks VID-20160922-WA0036.mp4

Tested batteries and terminals and wont get a crank. 2000 stock dually, 5 speed.

where is the fuel shut off solenoid and relay located?

just checked the yellow/white wires #15 & #35 and they both light up when the engine is running, it does not when cranking. when I crank the engine without waiting for the airdog to go on theres no power on the wires, after the airgod goes on, theres power, this is with the engine off and the key on start.

the wait to start light goes on right away every time. - - - Updated - - - It only starts after the pump goes on, sometimes it goes on rigth away, sometimes it goes on after the bell, if not then i give her a quick crank to wake up the pump. If i turn the key and the pump doesnt go on and i keep cranking it will start after 5 or 10 seconds of cranking. - - - Updated - - - The airdog harness does hook up to a factory harness, then gets power directly from the battery.

Good Morning, first i'd like to apologize for not responding earlier to my tread due to computer problems. My truck is still doing the same and have noticed it now takes longer for the airdog pump to go on after turning the key, it will only start when the pump goes on. I have tried replacing the relay at the airdog harness, i tried bypassing the relay at the harness and the pump goes on quickly. I also did a test at the connection that comes from the ecm and gives power to the airdog harness, i unplugged it and used a test light while someone turned the key and the tester will not go on until 5 or 10 seconds, contrary to this the pump goes on when i crank the key. Could these be a problem with the ecm or is there another relay that needs to be checked. Thanks.. 2000 ram 3500, nv4500 transmission, 4x4, 144k, silverline 4" stainless steel turbo back exhaust with dual stacks, ats intake horn, triple isspro ev2 gages, airdog II 165, new vp44, no programmers.

HI, MY TRUCK JUST STARTED TAKING LONGER TO START, I HAPPENS EVERY 1 OUT OF 3 TIMES I START HER UP. JUST REPLACED AIRDOG FILTER AND SEPARATOR, AIRFILTER, PURGED SYSTEM AND IS STILL DOING THE SAME. HAVE ABOUT 40K ON A NEW VP44 AND NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS. FUEL PRESSURE READING IS 17PSI AT IDLE AND 15PSI AT WOT. IF FEELS LIKE ITS GETTING AIR IN THE SYSTEM, IT TAKES ABOUT 5-10 SECONDS TO START AND WHEN IT DOES IT AUTO-ACCELERATES. ANY BODY FAMILIAR WITH THESE ISSUES???

Good Evening,Hey mike, the truck is working fine, the next day i disconnected the batteries and reset the accelerator, then cleared the codes, and ever since the truck has been working fine. I already went to california and came back, and no problems, i was hauling about 7.5 tons and no problem, then on the way back i had about 7 tons and no problem. The only thing i saw is that every time i exited the freeway and came to a stop the rpms bounced up and down. Is this normal?

Good evening mike, thanks for responding to my post, i will get you some readings tomorrow. The instructions i followed i got them from your website and they led me to step 7. Step 4 asks for the engine to be running and the readings in volts. Thanks,Noe

[h=2]I FOLLOWED THIS INSTRUCTIONS! DTC P0223: IDLE VALIDATION SIGNALS BOTH HIGH (ABOVE 5 V)[/h] Description Idle validation signals are monitored when ignition is on. DTC may be stored if Engine Control Module (ECM) senses high voltage signal from Idle Valve Switch (IVS) No. 1 and/or IVS No. 2. Possible causes are: defective Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS), defective ECM, or defective connectors or wiring. Testing [*]Ensure ignition is off. Disconnect APPS connector. APPS is located on bracket, just above fuel injection pump. Start engine and allow engine to idle. Using DVOM, measure voltage between cylinder block and terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) on APPS connector. This is the IVS No. 1 circuit. If voltage is more than 5.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 5.5 volts or less, go to step 4 . [*]Shut engine off. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage between cylinder block and terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) on APPS connector. If voltage is more than 5.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 5.5 volts or less, repair short to voltage Brown/Orange wire between APPS and ECM when engine is running. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. [*]Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage between cylinder block and terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) on APPS connector. If voltage is 5.5 volts or less, replace ECM. If voltage is more than 5.5 volts, repair short to voltage Brown/Orange wire between APPS and ECM when ignition is on. [*]With engine idling, using DVOM, measure voltage between cylinder block and terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) on APPS connector. This is the IVS No. 2 circuit. If voltage is more than 5.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 5.5 volts or less, go to step 7 . [*]5. Shut engine off. Turn ignition on with engine off. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Using DVOM, measure voltage between cylinder block and terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) on APPS connector. If voltage is more than 5.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 5.5 volts or less, repair short to voltage on Light Green/Dark Blue wire between APPS and ECM when engine is running. [*]Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage between cylinder block and terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) on APPS connector. If voltage is 5.5 volts or less, replace ECM. If voltage is more than 5.5 volts, repair short to voltage on Light Green/Dark Blue wire between APPS and ECM when ignition is on. [*]Ensure ignition is off and APPS connector is still disconnected. Measure resistance between cylinder block and terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace APPS. [*]Ensure ignition is off and APPS connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Measure resistance between terminal No. 1 (Black/Light Blue wire) on APPS connector and terminal No. 11 (Black/Light Blue wire) on ECM connector. Measure resistance between terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) on APPS connector and terminal No. 32 (Black/Yellow wire) on ECM connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms on all circuits, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more on any circuit, repair open wire between APPS and ECM. [*]Ensure ignition is off. Ensure APPS connector and ECM connector are still disconnected. Measure resistance between terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) on APPS connector and terminal No. 1 (Brown/Orange wire) on ECM connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open in Brown/Orange wire between APPS and ECM. [*]Measure resistance between terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) on APPS connector and terminal No. 16 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) on ECM connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace ECM. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open in Light Green/Dark Blue wire between APPS and ECM.

Good Morning Everybody,About 4 days ago i was driving and got a check engine light, did the 3 key on procedure and found code P1693 then the check engine light was gone, went to mechanic hooked obdII scanner and found no codes. Driving back home when i got to a stop sign i exprerienced "dead pedal" and got check engine light again, and drove home at idle speed and sometimes after a few blocks it came back to normal. I hooked obd II scanner and got code "P0223" THROTTLE PEDAL POSITION SENSOR/SWITCH B CIRCUIT HIGH. I went ahead and ordered TIMBO apps sensor, received yesterday and did the voltage adjustment, started the truck and drove it for about 15 miles and was working fine and accelerating perfect and no slack. When i got home and was parking at the driveway the check engine light came back on and again i had dead pedal. Did another scan and got the same code, started the truck and it accelerates again, could it be something else besides the sensor?I did the test for DTC P0223 i found in this website and the results are as follow:Step 1. Voltage at terminal 6 brown/orange wire on apps connector is at 4.72 volts.Step 4. Voltage at terminal 2 light green/dark blue wire on apps connector is at 4.72 volts.Step 7. Resistance at terminal 4 black/yellow wire on apps connector is at 00.6 ohms. It says that if less than 5 ohms to replace apps sensor. Could it be that TIMBO sensor is bad?

so far its been $275.00 for mainshaft gear and fifth gear countershaft gear, still need new shaft nut and oil about $100.00, labor will be about $100.00 thats $475.00. I think i will add the extra nut retainer for another $150.

any input on the new splined nut retainer? www.fifthgearrepair.com http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NV4500-DODGE-5TH-GEAR-LOCK-NUT-RETAINER-UPDATED-/170626379979

Hi, just experienced the fifth gear problem yesterday, i was hauling my trailer, when all of the sudden i hear a noise and vibration from the transmission. After that my fifth gear will not work any more, luckily made back in fourth. Today we drop the transmission to see what was the problem, and i find that the nut on the mainshaft came loose and my fifth gear and mainshaft gear were gone. I've been searching on the internet and found out this is a typical problem for the NV4500 transmission. Just ordered the gears and need to order the nut also. Having a hard time picking a design that works, would appreciate any input or experience on the parts i need to fix my truck. Thanks.

Just wanted to see if everybody is using 65 psi front and 50 psi rear when empty on a 2000 dually. What is the recommended tire pressure when hauling 15k lbs?

by the way if i shift the 4x4 to 4H, she doesn't shake. and when she is fresh also, only after i've been working with her.

once i get rid of the shaking i will buy a tuner (smarty or edge comp). Or do you think the truck shakes because it does not have power?

thanks alot! i will scan the ecm tomorrow to see if it has any codes. Blue chip's website helped me diagnose my vp44 when it was gone. Hopefully it will help me finding out whats wrong this time.

the truck's rpms stay normal when shaking, i dont think its slipping, i did the key switch on-off 3 times and got no codes. What could be the problem? I totally agree that the truck should pull more, i thought i was going to see a difference with the upgrades i did but it feels the same as before. I don't know where to start looking...... What is the dead pedal? it sure feels like that!

the truck has the 4:10 gears, original tires, and its a 4x4, it only shakes with a load, sometimes with an empty trailer.

today, i hooked up my gooseneck trailer and loaded some cattle, and i was hoping since i installed a new vp44, airdog165, ats arcflow, silverline stacks, my truck was going to have more horse power, but mywas dissapointed because my truck just cant pull a 24' gooseneck with 7 bulls (about 10k lbs.) When i take off the truck starts to shake and takes a long time to advance, i have a 2000 dually with the nv4500, with only 130k miles, i've had this truck for about a year and it is my first dodge truck. I like the fact that the engine is real simple and easy to fix, i also have a 00 duramax 2500hd with the banks six gun, and that truck pulls more than this truck. My truck is stock as far as engine programming, i thought that this truck was going to be stronger at stock than the chevy, but i think it really needs the help of a programmer or chip. Is this normal for this truck or could it be something else (what is the dead pedal?) i bought this truck from an old man and he took care of the truck and even gave me all the records and receipts on the maintenance he did to the truck. Can some one give me any advice on my problem, could it be that i need a new clutch? This truck looks like it just came out of the factory it even has the stickers and barcodes in the chassis, all original, no cracked dashboard, original like new carpet floor mats, no cracks on the windshield, its beautiful and i will like to keep it but it just doesn't do what i need her to do.

Has anybody had this problem when adjusting the temperature while your a/c is on? mine smells like antifreeze when i adjust the temperature, could it be a leak?