texas503

First, I really appreciate all your help.The 24 valve I had had better power throughout the whole rpm range. I did have RV 275 injectors and a timing box though. That truck pulled the same road with ease, although I did not have an EGT gauge on that truck.This truck has O.K power in higher RPM range, so I doubt timing is the issue, if there is really an issue at all. I don't know. Could a waste gate stuck open cause the issue.

Well I just drove up a local road that is pretty steep and winding, speed ranges from 30-45mph up for about 4 miles. I am kind of disappointed in the power and EGT of my truck. I was running up to 1000 degrees unloaded, except for 6 people crammed in the cab, with about 5 -15 psi of boost. I had the tranny locked-up in 3rd. The 1000 degrees came when I was down about 1200 rpm, but most the time even doing 45 mph the egt was 800-900 degrees. It just doesn't seem like I am building enough boost for the egt climbing. What could be the reason for this? The truck was not blowing smoke except when I was pushing it in the low RPM.I know it is hard to give advice when you really can't see what and when the truck doing. I just expect more, I had more from the lightly modded 24 valve truck. I am glad that I don't have the problems that I had from the 24 valve.Thanks

Thank your all for your help, it looks like I have a little work to do.

Well I have no lift kit and as far as tires, they are 265/75/16 Michellins. How do I check the track bar etc... The DW has been very intermittent, but started so suddenly, I don't really understand. I have put about 20,000 miles on the truck since I bought it. The guy I bought it from mentioned some vibrations he had at one point, but had said new rotors and pads had helped alot. I have had no issues since buying it. Is the track bar hard to replace?Has anyone had any experience with the BD steering box brace?Thanks

My truck (1997) just started to have the death wobble only while braking. I only does it sometimes. The first time it did it the wobble was bad. There was no slight vibration that has built over time. I did recently replace tires. Do you have any words of wisdom?

I recently changed injectors to 5x0.010, the truck runs great, but I had a question as to what EGT is normal for these trucks. This is what I have.1997 2500 auto 4x4; #0 plate full back (as in toward the cab); 3.55 gears; 265/75/16 tires; ranch hand bumper; AFC full back; Starwheel full forward I think that is all that would affect EGT.My EGT doing about 55-60 when climbing a relatively small hill will rise to 800 degrees easily and sometimes 900 without me accelerating. I will be doing about 7-8 psi of boost and EGT will climb rapidly. Just under normal acceleration... taking about 30 seconds to reach 60mph, egt will reach 700-800 degrees. Doing 70mph EGT will run about 700 degrees on flat and 800 up a hill pushing 10 PSI.And I have done a boost leak test.Is that normal, just seems a little hot for normal driving? It has been about 100 degrees around here, does that really make a difference?Thanks

Would you really think that the injector could be cracked? Or would it be more likely that the hold down nut just needs to be tightened down? I don't know if it would be possible for fuel to come back up past the washer on the injector tip after being injected into the cylinder.

I actually had a leak from the return line initially, but finally got it to stop. The fuel is coming up past the hold down nut, actually took it to a shop and had them take a look. They did the same thing you are talking about, blew it with air and watched, and they agreed it was coming past hold down nut. They said the only way it would leak from there was the injector body was cracked or the nut at the end to the injector had backed off.

How did you tighten them? Did you have to pull lines or were you able to use a crow's foot?

Since I have recently installed newly rebuilt injectors, I have about 1,000 miles on them, I have a fuel leak on the number 1,3 cylinders coming up from around the hold down nuts. #1 is very slight, but #3 is fairly significant. They have been leaking since install, I just hoped they would stop on their own.My question is, how do I stop the leak, and could the injector body itself be cracked? The truck runs very well. The truck has no starting issues, as would be from sucking air. I did use new washers.Thanks

Well finally was able to get some new injectors which were 5x0.10. These helped alot with the low end power. I do not notice much white smoke now, but it has warmed up alot now. Just thought I would update.Thanks for all the help.

I have also noticed some white/gray smoke mixed with the black when I get on it. Just a side note.

I hate to say that I am sure about the timing, but I think I am sure as I can be without having done it myself.

Thanks, you say valves way out of adjustment can cause white smoke? I had valves adjusted at time of timing change, maybe that might be it, but I will check injectors.

So with increased timing I should have less white smoke according to the table? Now I am confused. I understand that timing should be checked with a dial indicator, but I do not have the know how, time, or tools to do it myself. I have had it checked by two different shops, both telling me it is at 15 degrees. I am not losing coolant or oil.This all makes me think possible injector issue, but it runs O.K. without miss and is O.K. power. Maybe it is a compression issue. I don't know maybe I should drive it and not worry about it. I guess I might just be paranoid. The white smoke wouldn't bother me much if it weren't for the unburnt fuel stench.

I had it checked at another shop who attached a timing light to the #1 injector line. They did not actually pull the line and attach a dial indicator onto the plunger itself. I did not tell them what the timing was supposed to be at either, which makes me believe it more. But they had it running in the shop and you could really smell the unburnt fuel smell and a white haze. The mechanic thought I was washing a cylinder due to timing being bumped up and having the unburnt fuel. But when I asked him that maybe having a little unburnt fuel at idle, when I was higher up in RPM maybe it would be right where it needed to be in injection process, he tried to tell me the pump itself adjusts for higher RPM. The P-pump is a static timing correct?Another thing is I had the shop adjust the valves at the same time as the timing was adjusted, if that helps.The truck was a California truck, if that makes a difference, although the EGR and Cat are removed and the intake horn was replaced with regular horn.The reason I am thinking injectors is the truck doesn't have as much power as my 24 valve did with just RV 275 injectors and a timing box. I should probably have them pop tested.Thanks for your patience and help.

Well I got my timing checked again and they said it was at 15 degrees, but the mechanic said he thought is running rich, which you can smell almost an unburnt fuel smell along with the white smoke. He was saying that it was running rich due to the timing being bumped up, but I didn't think 15 degrees was all that much. I was wondering if maybe I have a worn injector who's pop off pressure was off and injecting too early causing the unburnt fuel? I won't think that I have low compression at only 173,000 miles? Or a bad injection pump? Would 15 degrees really cause white smoke and unburnt fuel?Thanks

So I should probably find someone to at least confirm the timing using a dial indicator. That is what it sounds like, I may actually get them to turn the timing down at bit, I don't like the lack of low end power it has now, I seem to spend quite a bit of time down low.

Well I found out how they did the timing. The guy at the shop said they pinned the pump at TDC and then loosened the pump and turned the engine 15 degrees on relation to the dampner. Does that sound right? I know the truck is alittle harder to start now that it's colder. It has gotten in the 20's degrees here in N. GA and when I start it, it will idle at like 300 rpm.When I asked him why they did not use the dial indicator he said that it was not very accurate. He said they recently had a guy bring a truck in that had gotten his timing way out by using a dial indicator.What do you think?

Thanks so much again. Than reassures me. Just out of curiosity what was your timing set to at the time of the video?Mine does not smoke quit that much. But it seems to smoke slightly even when warmed up.166,000 miles, so that shouldn't be an issue.

Sorry, but can I ask ONE more question, since I am new to 12 valve? My truck has white smoke while idling. Not any major smoking but a haze. It seems to do it worse when cold start up but seems to smoke a little all the time. Is this normal or...The exhaust smells alot stronger than exhaust from my 24 valve, I can even get a wiff of it while sitting at a stop light sometimes and most definately when I step out of the truck. Does that mean bad injector?Seems to have started after timing bumped up. Could it be a head gasket, but not leaking any fluids. Or could the timing be too much, too little.So support the injector theory, could that cause the clanging noise? I also had valves adjusted when timing was done.Truck runs O.K. and I just got 22 mpg on a highway trip babying it.Maybe I am just paranoid.

Just one more question. The truck just got the timing put to 15 degrees or supposed to be at 15 degrees. It sounds alot different than a friend's 96 that has not had timing adjusted. My truck almost has a valve rattle sound. Sort of a higher pitch tinking, rather the mello sound of my buddy's. Is that normal with 15 degrees timing? Is does not have a lope unless it gets idled really low.Thanks once again.

I have the star wheel adjusted about 3/4, maybe less, toward the radiator. It does not smoke unless I really get on to it and it still does not pour smoke. Do I need to adjust it out some more? Is it going to affect my tow ability, or is it controlled by my right foot more than anything? The truck has plenty of top end power, just wanting some more down low, but don't want to roast EGT's either. Maybe I am asking too much. I used to have an Edge EZ on the 24 valve with the RV 275 injectors and it really did well down low. I am not expecting that kind of low end power, or should I? Thanks for all the help. --- Update to the previous post... I do have boost, EGT, and tranny temp gauges; BHAF; 3.55 gears; 2500 4x4. I also have lock up switch for tranny.

Well that is kind of my problem, I really don't want to smoke a huge amount. I have not tweaked on the fuel plate or AFC as far as sliding it forward. I have left it as I bought it. I am worried about getting EGT's too high while towing. I have turned the starwheel out about 3/4. My tranny has a Goerend TC and valve body.Would you suggest a different fuel plate? It has what I bought the truck with. Will a different fuel plate give me better EGT control while better low end power? Thanks

I recently bought a 1997 auto Dodge cummins with #0 fuel plate full back, AFC full back (towards cab) 3000 GSK and 15* of timing. I have tweaked on the star wheel a little bit. My question is I have a 1999 24valve cummins auto with RV 275 injectors that has alot more low end power than this 12 valve. Is this normal? The 12 valve will run off and leave the 12 valve in upper RPM's but not down low. Is this normal due to variable timing and slightly larger injectors of the 24 valve? My 24 valve would really light the turbo at about 1200 rpm but the 12 valve won't until about 1600 rpm.So far the 24 valve is the better tow rig just because of low end grunt. Any suggestions?