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About cltdba

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  1. The resistor is only used during troubleshooting I believe. At least that's what I've gathered. It may be as you suggested, that the scan tools have a resistor built in. <shrug> For my truck, I think the problem lies with the TIPM. According to all of the diagrams I've looked at, everything related to the diagnostic port and the ECM runs through the TIPM. So if I'm not getting any (or enough) voltage for the scan tool to read or if the "handshake" isn't correct then perhaps the TIPM is failing. It's also a circuit board/electronic device. What year is your truck?
  2. From radio shack. You take the resistor and go from Pin 4 to Pin 7 and measure the voltage between the two with the resister in place. (Let me add the "I think" caveat! hehe ) http://www.ross-tech.com/***-com/aftermarket-radio.html
  3. Went to another friends shop and used his Alldata (and some other software) to get wiring diagrams. It appears pins 7 and 12 are not used which explains no power on those. (These are the K and C lines for use with ISO-9141-2.) I located pins 6 and 14 at the TIPM and verified continuity. No breaks in the wire from the OBD2 to the TIPM. (These connect at connector C on the TIPM.) I ran out of time and wasn't able to ohm from TIPM to the ECM, but at least I know which wires I need to look at. If the wiring is good from TIPM to ECM then I guess I'll try replacing the TIPM. Not really sure what
  4. I wish I could say I had this fixed. Unfortunately I just have not had time to dig into this. I've been way to busy working on the race jeep and getting things in order for the next race. The tow rig will just have to wait unfortunately. I'll be sure to come back here and update the thread when I get back to it!
  5. Thanks! I'll be working on this issue again sometime next week. I've saved the image and I'll try to decipher it in my spare time. :D heheh I have a race this weekend and have TONS of work to do on the race Jeep to get it ready for Friday & Saturday.
  6. Still haven't fixed this. I tried replacing the ECM, but it did the same thing. Now I'm leaning towards a problem at the OBD II port. Started researching the port and I "think" I should have voltage on pin 7/K Line when the key is on, but I do not. When I get some more time I plan to start taking the dash apart and tracing wires. I need to do this to fix the floor vent control anyway. It's not working either. The radio is factory, but I wonder if the previous owner had an after market radio in it at some point. I hear that can sometimes cause issues with the OBDII port. If a
  7. No chrome/stainless exhaust for me! :P I want it to stay dark underneath and white on the exterior. FTE was actually my first choice up until I came across the prices at TV diesel. I was going to get their 5" kit. I didn't see a 4" kit on their site. I'll give Walt a call and check the price and see if he has any handy bolt on hangers rather than the weld-on kind. --edit-- was going to upload a pic of my truck, but it seems the editor isn't mac friendly. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/image/jpeg;base64,/9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAQEASABIAAD/4gv4SUNDX1BST0ZJTEUAAQEAAAvoAAAAAAIAAABtbnRyUkdCIFhZWiAH2QA
  8. Thanks everyone for your help! I feel the 4" kit is the way to go. Now where to buy it? I'm leaning towards TV diesel. (Found out about them from a post here on this forum) They seem to have the best price around and it's a Diamond Eye kit. I like the DE kit because of the u-bolt brackets with hangers. I have yet to wire 220 to my shop so I can't use my welder and this would make things easier. TV Diesel Diamond Eye 4" Aluminized Kit with Muffler And I'll be ditching the u-bolt clamps and going with some of the EZ seal band clamps. Those seem to do a better job and make things easier i
  9. Excellent thread! This explains why my truck feels laggy without the cat. With the cat my VE percentage is likely lessened, but my "light to light" response is better. In theory, if I'm in the city and have the cat on, I should save fuel because the truck won't need to supply as much fuel to build boost to get the truck moving. As for increasing the exhaust size...Assuming my math is correct, the 4" exhaust is way bigger than the turbo's exhaust outlet, so there shouldn't be any flow issues. There's not really any chance for an overspeed condition, even with the cat on. The only valid p
  10. Now that makes a lot of sense! Now we just need a Holset engineer to chime in!
  11. I think the whole point of the back pressure debacle is related to the amount of time it takes to build spool. More back-pressure = faster spool? I'm assuming that's why the truck feels more responsive on take-off with the cat in-line. At WOT I imagine having an unrestricted exhaust would be more beneficial. However, I know nadda dang thing about anything of this and am just guessing. :P
  12. There's no such thing as a hijacked thread in my opinion. If something I posted causes more questions then that means I probably didn't think of everything. All of it is good info. Between truck and trailer I'm only averaging about 12-13k. On occasion I will hit the 20K mark but it's rare. I haven't installed my EGT probe yet. I've got 1,000 more miles before the warranty runs out and I've been avoiding it until then. Anyone still have the cat on that can speak to EGTs?What about the "back pressure" bit, anyone know anything?
  13. That's kind've how I feel about the 5", but everyone raves about it. Perhaps it's that bigger is better mentality? In my 2007, I have plenty of room for the 5", but I still think it's overkill. But then I don't want to buy a new 4" kit only to later upgrade it to 5".My current setup is 4" aftermarket that was installed by previous owner. It's falling to pieces and needs to be replaced. Seems going back with 4" gives me the most options. I suppose if at some point I decide to make tons of power out of this truck, I could upgrade to 5". I don't see that being the route I take anytime soon
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