al_fol

I am assuming by every few miles u are meaning, in the morning before leave for work, and the afternoon when i head home. It's about a 10 mile drive

I tried the oil cap thing within the last week, there was not enough pressure to make cap dance or move. I have towed heavy within the last couple of weeks. Only twenty miles to and from campground. Steep and really steep hill to get home. Camper weighs about 9500 or so. I am ready to go crazy, on vacation with family, all I can think about is my truck. No, I am not driving it.

I am not the original owner, and do not know the history. I do have some blowby out the tube on bottom of motor, and it does steam or smoke but not excessively. I have not noticed any oil around the turbo. Could my rings be hot? What about the ccv, could it be plugged causing some funky issue?

no starting issues, starts after three or four turns of motor. I have no sheen in anti-freeze, or visible leaks anywhere. How can i be positive it is the seals in turbo, tell-tell signs. Thanks for the replies!!

Could someone please tell me where my oil is going?? Last oil change was about 4k ago with Valvoline Blue and a Wix gold Filter. Checked oil this morning after truck had sat overnight on level ground. Pulled the stick and nothing, did it again, same result. Truck does not leak, has good oil pressure, anti-freeze looks good, no oil underneath, it does have a little blow-by and there is 147k miles on motor. I do have a oily residue on my exhaust tip that does not easily remove with soap and water. I run a 200:1 ratio of 2 stroke oil(TCW3) in my fuel, not sure if that could cause the residue. Could the turbo be blowing the oil out? Any ideas from the great minds?? Please guide me.

Does the 48RE circulate fluid when it is in PARK? I also found this link to be helpful. http://www.pacbrake.com/PDF/L5807.PDF

Thanks for the information! This forum ROCKS!

How do I correctly identify which transmission is in my truck? I am not sure if it is a 47re or a 48re. The truck is the one in my signature. Production date= 1-03. codes in glove box = DGA and DG8.

Licensed Professional Land Surveyor, shade-tree mechanic, full-time husband and father. Archery coach for the NASP program at school. Baseball and golf coach to my son, and learning how to deal with the young men that are eye-balling my teen-age daughter :banghead: .

I really like the ones that are sold at Oreillys auto parts. The rotors seem to be quality steel and true right out of box, brake pads seem to be well made. I believe the brand is Wagner???? Hope to get drilled and slotted rotors next go around to help with keeping brakes cool, lots of hills in these parts!!

IMHO, I would not go with the AZ rotors or pads. I have tried them before and the rotors were to thin right out of the box, took those back got another set and those were warped. Brother in law has them on his truck and i am not impressed with those either, brakes fade fast on a hard stop. just my worth.

Thanks to all for the replies and helpful answers. This is a terrific forum with very knowledgeable people!!

Wow, what a wealth of information you guys are!! Thanks a lot!! What causes the truck rattle in this situation and my gauge will stay low for at least a minute sometimes longer. I usually have to start driving before it will come back to normal.

Was wondering if it is normal for the charging system to be on the low side at first start? Never really noticed this before. The gauge normally shows a charge of over 14 volts, but in the mornings and afternoons when the truck is cold the gauge will stay to the left of 14 volts i guesstimate 12. After a couple of minutes it will return to normal. The motor seems to really rattle when it is below 14 volts, and when it returns to normal the truck seems to come to life and quit rattling. The temp here today was around 50°. does this have to do with the grid heaters or have I got other issues? Hopefully one of these days I will be knowledgeable enough to help someone!!

Still have not performed the OD off timed runs as Johnfak suggested. However i did install/tune the predator performance tune (100hp-170tq) today and it really has made a big difference in the truck. It actually seems like it is making power when i am on the throttle. Was making 25lbs of boost and 23,200 psi at WOT. Is the program just telling the computer to dump more fuel? it is definately a different truck.

Will get back with on the 0-35 and such with OD off. I'm in the mini van today, Have lots of young'uns to deliver and haul today after archery practice. Thanks again for everybody's responses and questions. Great Forum!!!!

No, my speed hasn't been re-calibrated. Maybe i need to get the gps in the truck and check it that way. I have no way of re-calibrating anyway. I am really at a loss as to what the problem could be it may just be the way it is. If i keep her cranked up she does pretty good, but pulling a 5th wheel at 75-80 mph is really not a very good idea. Also the difference in rpm's with overdrive on and off is amazing is there really that much gear reduction between the two? It will drop almost a grand. With overdrive off and 75mph i'm in the redline (i don't normally drive that way).I also noticed tonight that if I manually shift the gears; when I go from 1st to 2nd it seems like it doesn't grab 2nd right off the bat. its like it has been double clutched. does that make sense? One other thing this truck does that drives me nuts is this: driving along overdrive on, tranny and speed have not quite got up enough to go into overdrive, i put a little more pressure on the skinny to climb a grade and all of the sudden it hits overdrive!! Why does it do that? I gave it more skinny not less. Maybe its time to swap out the governor pressure switch and solenoid. Going nuts!!!Thanks for your help!!

Thanks for all responses!! I can offer a 65-85mph time(couldn't get slowed down to 60 on the highway). Okay so from 65-85 my time was 16 seconds (slow!!) when I stabbed the skinny the truck actually did down shift but it didn't stay there long (this truck loves overdrive). Like I said earlier just when it feels like it is really making some power it wants to shift (always at the worst time). Now on the way back home from the big city I kept the truck around 2200 rpms (75MPH) and that seems to be a sweet spot for it. I could roll on the throttle and it seemed to go on. As long as I keep it at 75 or so it does well. I may still have a boost leak somewhere I will re-check when time and life allow. I guess at 75 the turbo is pretty well spooled and doesn't take it long to get going.I will definitely be purchasing the new filters that AH64ID mentioned. As far as the Smarty Jr and boost elbow go that is what I would like to do also. As far as the boost elbow goes how do I adjust the wastegate to allow this extra boost with the smarty?And roger on the 3" pipe I have that exact pipe and mounting flange just have not had the time to install. The kids and their extra curricular activities demand most of my time!!

I am not sure what my 60-80 time is. However if I'm cruising at 60mph and roll into the throttle most of the time it will not shift down. If i stab the throttle sometimes it will and sometimes it won't. It actually seems like the truck is always in the wrong gear especially when towing. Just when it seems it is pulling good it wants to change gears(torque management??). I was unaware that the AD f\w was crap, i will get that changed immediately. My fuel filter is a new Napa Gold 2um (so they say). The only thing i really did to the airbox was drill a hole in the bottom of it.I did notice a little while back when i looked at the diagnostics on the predator that the voltage to a sensor can't remember which one was really sporadic(might have been map sensor). I did an APPS reset and the voltage settled.Anyhow, I am open to suggestions and guidance. Thanks for your help!!

I have fixed my boost leak, I think, but I am still experiencing a power problem. Truck is a STOCK 2003 S.O CR motor 250hp/47RE auto except for Airdog100 and homegrown CAI and a 5" exhaust. Truck has no get up and go especially at interstate speeds. When I press the accelerator at highway speeds it seems very slow to react, the truck will go faster but it is slow in getting there. I have checked my rail pressures last night while cruising at 65mph and they hovered right around 90mpa ( 13,000 psi if my math is correct). The truck idles at about 35-37mpa (5,000-5,350 psi) and at WOT it will hit 150mpa (21,750 psi). The outside air temp was 55° and my IAT temp was 70°. All of these numbers were taken with a diablo predator in the diagnostics area. (I am not running this programmer). There was also a reading for intake temp that read 150° and it never changed. I would really like to figure this out, I need that extra umph to pull my camper, and i swear all this started after i installed my airdog this past spring after the Holley blue electric one crapped out on me. I do not have EGT guages, or tran temp guages( YET). I do know that the truck is making about 22-23 pounds of boost with the turbo (HE341 I believe is the stocker). Diablo shows 15 psi at idle which i have to assume should be 0 and at WOT it will read 37-38 psi which should be about 22-23 pounds of boost by doing the math. The truck has 141,000 miles on it with 3.73 gears, it blows very little smoke and purrs like a kitten. The truck seems to run very well it just doesn't have the power I think it should especially on the interstate. I also plan on lashing the valves in the very near future!! Other information should be in my signature. Any Ideas or thoughts on what the issue could be. I am sure i have forgotten some information but i can hopefully answer any further questions. One last thing the truck shows no codes with the key trick, the diablo or a code reader. --- Update to the previous post... Also the fuel filter was replaced not long ago as was the air filter. Fuel filter is a 2 micron filter and the air filter is an oem filter. Also are the boost numbers in range or are they short for that stock turbo??

Just wanted to introduce myself and say hello. Have already posted a question or two and appreciate the help received from this forum. I am fairly new to the Diesel world but I have been tinkering with cars, motorcycles and trucks since I was old enough to hold a wrench.So from the state with great bourbon, fast horses and beautiful women a great big "HOWDY" goes out to everybody!!

Sorry, i should have made my self a little clearer. I removed the boot from the intake horn(drivers side) and plugged it as well. I am pressurizing from the turbo through the boost cooler and ending just short of the intake horn. Essentially i am just pressurizing the boost system. Does that make sense?

I have the intake side of the boost system plugged as well, so i guess it should hold indefinately then.

Stock Filter?? Mine is stock but only about 2" thick. I am only replacing the one hose for now. Wish i could afford to do them all, but............Kids need lunch money, plus i pressure checked them and they seem to be fine. So in a perfect world the boost system should hold the pressure until i release it??

Thank you for the filter numbers. What is a good air filter to run in my stock but home modded air box. I have read a few threads about the 4" pleated one but have not run across a brand/part number. Thanks again for your help! Once i get my boost system put back together, for testing purposes how much air pressure should I use and how long should it hold it?