Dumb A

Thanks for the APPS Mike....

Great, thanks for the info, I will be checking back and get one when they are in stock.

Just finished building my 02 5.9 and took it out for a test drive, all went well. Before I tore the engine down I was having intermittent dead pedal. I'm likely going to need to replace the APPS? Is one better than another? And possible source? Thanks everyone!!!

All of you have brought up good information and I believe history the most. When Tractorman says he has 297 K on a needle pilot bearing before it failed, that's real... I also believe Tractorman is correct in saying any bearing may have failed at 297 K. That said I also believe that low load and intermittent demand, as all of you have stated are the reasons for longevity of this bearing. I think we all agree that contamination is the biggest reason for failure. Now the failure question, when this needle bearing fails while riding on the input shaft it will likely gall the input shaft due to needle breakage. Whereas a ball bearing with inner and outer races may afford you some warning prior to eating up the input shaft. Dragging the input shaft between shifts or bearing noise with clutch depressed may tip you off. This is why I'm interested in getting away from the needle bearing. I priced a flywheel with the sealed ball bearing for 297 and that seems like the best way forward and less expensive then replacing an input shaft down the road. It's been educational talking with all of you, thanks for your input and years of experience with these trucks, it's very helpful!!!

Okay, here is some physics to consider. Pilot shaft diameter = .750 and the needle diameter = .093 so per every revolution of the pilot shaft the needle turns 8 times. (.750÷.093) that means at idle 800 rpm, you depress the clutch peddle, those needles are spinning a polite 6400 rpm. Toss a little heat, debris and frictional stress in the recipe and it becomes apparent the task we're asking this bearing to do. Pretty impressive they last as long as they do. This also supports my reasons for a bushing or larger ball bearing with larger balls (turning slower) and sealed to keep debris out. So what will it be??? A .500 caliber round through the side of the block or should I cut the truck in half with a large hacksaw??? Of course the last two questions are hypothetical.... Tractorman has it correct to what failure do we build these trucks? "I get to live with the consequences" but hopefully there is a lot of pleasure in-between failures.

Yep, that's how this one works. OD=1.000, ID=.750, so 1/8 wall on this bearing. That means the rollers are probably .093 or 3/32. That just seems like planned failure.

Thanks for the info Tractorman, I'm doing a complete rebuild on this engine and from the looks of it the transmission and clutch, they were rebuilt/replaced about 6K ago. I thought I saw something about an oversized bearing for this application. I don't like that the bearing uses the input shaft as the inner race. I would much rather see a hardened inner race as well as sealed to keep the debris out. It appears that on the last assembly they got a bit rough with it and damaged the edge of the bearing. Maybe hit it with the input shaft?

Anyone have a suggestion for a pilot bushing rather than the needle bearing in my flywheel. Maybe a supplier. I have sworn off DAP. It looks like a weak design and I've seen pictures of input shafts chewed up after these have gone buggy.

Silverwolf, I will look into Cummins OEM rebuild kit. I don't know the history of this truck, obviously abused though. Bought it not running. Two pistons were tapped by intake valves and 4 pistons have cracks. The bores look good and measure out at 4.015 diameter, still see cross hatch marks in bores. I've run the truck 3500 miles and can still read the dip stick through the oil and no blow by or wind in the basement!!! I will lift the engine out in the morning and disassemble it to see what needs to be ordered. The head measured at the low limit 4.125 thickness. So it has been surfaced a couple of times? New head time @ 208K miles. I will get her back up and running again.

Have any of you used the rebuild kit from Diesel Auto Power.

I bought it 6 months ago, rebuilt the rear end, got it running and have 3500 miles since that time. The problems have been many. I'm likely going to do a complete rebuild on the engine. Any recommendations on a complete engine rebuild kit, source, better quality is preferred, no Chinese garbage. The head looks pretty good but I will take it in tomorrow and have it checked for flat and cracks along with valves and seats. Dripley, I don't think I posted about a cracked head but I did post a head leak issue a bit a month or so ago. That problem was a sensor had been screwed into the 3/4 npt port in the back of the head and was leaking coolant from it. I replaced it with a npt plug and fixed that problem. Just to discover a leak on #6 connector tube, got that fixed, new tubes and discovered a leak at the head gasket, driver's side all the way aft. That's why I removed the head, just to find cracked pistons and valve contact. I should have shot this truck with a 50 cal. round months ago. While that doesn't fix anything it would have put a grin on my face.

I will take my head in tomorrow and get it checked out, I had a small coolant leak at the back of my head, driver's side. I was attempting to get everything lined up in preparation for the worse case scenario, cracked head.... That's why the questions. What I also found was cracked pistons on 1,2,3 and 5, along with hit marks from the intake valves on top of the pistons on 2 and 5. The last picture was my coolant leak, head gasket failed... Also I should have mentioned that the parts list is from DAP.

Hello everyone, my questions today start with this list of parts, loaded head, ARP studs, three piece manifold and OEM gasket for my 02 Cummins. I don't plan on boosting HP but have RV-275 injectors and a power puck. Looking for dependability... Is there better quality parts that I should be looking for than the parts listed below. A better supplier. Better price. Just trying to make a good decision rather than my usual mistakes, thanks everyone!!! Item Qty Price Total Loaded cummins head 5.9L PSP-PP-24vhead-LOEM 1 $1,420.00 $1,420.00 1686: 3852 $199.00 $199.00 ARP 12mm Headstud Kit - 247-4202 ARP-247-4202 1 $433.88 $433.88 Genuine Cummins Standard Thickness Head Gasket CMS-3977063 1 $145.99 $145.99 DAP Assembled 3-Piece T3 Exhaust Manifold Pyro Tapped With Gaskets - 24VT3M DAP-24VT3M 1 $349.00 $349.00 $2,547.8

I will rent one from the parts store in the morning and give it a try....

Update, just test drove the new RV 275 injectors and connector tubes. No more high pitch tick tick tick, no more pressure in my fuel tank and no more slobbering fuel on #6 injector tube where it connects to the high pressure line... Now to figure out where the coolant leak is... I cleaned up the engine and will fire it up in the morning, checking for the coolant leak at the rear of the head.... Thanks again for all your help.....