SoTX

IT'S ALIVE!!!! WOO-HOO!! Re-priming the LP did the trick. Test drive went very well. Might have to replace the batteries , though. Thanks for the help!

Thanks, Dave. Been on the phone with FASS tech. I been trying to start the engine to the point that my batteries are getting low. Re-bled the LP and squirted WD-40 into the water separator hole. Just got the engine to act like it may kick over. Keep your fingers crossed! Wifey gets home soon so I'll have a battery to jump with.

You can remove all but the two bed bolts closest to the tail gate (just loosen those two) and tilt the bed up. Don't forget the ground strap at the front of the bed on the passenger side and the four screws holding the filler neck in place. Block it up and you should have access to the top of your tank.

OK, guys. This might be long, but I want to fully explain my problem: I just replaced my VP44 and added a FASS Titanium 95 GPH lift pump on the frame rail. There has never been a pump inside the fuel tank. Got the LP done first and the system bled - no problem. A couple of days later, I changed the VP44. I wanted to keep the stock fuel filter canister for the water in fuel sensor and the heater, so I put the fitting for the VP inlet on the inlet to the filter canister. I changed the filter in the canister, too. Right now I have the original banjo fittings and line from the filter canister to the VP in place. I also used the 1/8" port at the top of the canister to tap for a fuel gauge, with a needle valve. So far so good, right? The problem is that I can't get any fuel to the VP44 :banghead:. I have cycled the lift pump several times, but nothing. No fuel (or just bubbles) out of the needle valve. I took the line off of the canister inlet and placed it inside a 5 gallon diesel fuel can and it flows good. About 3 to 4 cycles and the can was about 1/2 full. I reattached the line to the canister inlet, opened the needle valve (without the gauge line attached), loosened the banjo to the inlet port of the VP and bumped the starter. Diesel fuel sprayed everywhere. I tightened everything back up, but now I'm back to no pressure. So, I checked the fuel line flow into the 5 gallon can again - good flow. I then ran the fuel line straight to the VP44. Little to no flow. I loosened the return banjo until fuel dripped out. I've got the injector lines loosened and seeing a few bubbles from 3 and 4. Any ideas?

So what happened? Did you find the problem?

No, the FASS BBRK-1001 kit includes fittings and 3/8" fuel line to replace the banjo bolts and fuel line from the fuel filter canister to the VP44. So, I'll have 3/8" line from the fuel tank module to the VP44, while keeping the stock filter canister for the extra filter, fuel heater and the water in fuel sensor. I'm also going to tap the top port on the filter canister with a needle valve and 1/8" air brake tubing for my mechanical fuel pressure gauge.

Got the FASS titanium put on today and ran the fuel line up to the fuel filter canister. Waiting on the banjo replacement kit to get here so I can put on the new VP44. Still have to get the stuff for the fuel gauge also. I had 1/2 tank of fuel, so me and the BIL took the bed off. Sure made things a lot easier to install the FASS! So far so good. I replaced the filter in the canister not that long ago, maybe 10,000 miles. I probably ought to replace it again while I'm doing all this other stuff, huh?

Thanks. I kinda want to do away with the banjo bolts. I'm looking at a FASS banjo bolt replacement kit (BBRK-1001). I'm replacing the VP44 (got the ol' P1688 code), the lift pump with a FASS titanium 95 gph, the cam position sensor while I'm there, and adding a FP gauge with a needle valve and Mike's idea of using air brake tubing, just to keep an eye on things. Thanks again for the info.

I read that you can use the inner most 1/8" port on the top of the fuel filter canister as a tap for your mechanical FP gauge. This is the plug closest to the center nut on top. Anyone have any info on this?

I'm new the Dodge forums but I've been subscribing to Diesel Power magazine for more than 6 years now, and I don't remember ever seeing a truck with this modification done to it or that the issue of the breather tube has even ever been brought up and discussed. Seems like this would have come up.......

WOW! I didn't realize that the radiator could be affected by the blow-by. I don't have a bottle, either and there's definately oil dripping from the bottom of the tube. It's all over my sway bar, etc. Guess I need to check my radiator and do this mod. Seems easy enough. I won't miss the oil smell after oil changes either. Thanks for the info.

I was driving 100 miles round trip to work and was averaging about 17 MPG, lower if I had to blow by non-driving people though.

I've got a 98.5 24v 2WD and 47RE auto, 175k miles. When I first start the truck, it takes a long time for the trans to shift from 1st to 2nd. After that, it shifts fine thru all gears after a stop sign, light, whatever. If I turn it off and go into a store or something, when I come back and start the truck again, it takes a long time again to shift from 1st to 2nd. After it does, it shifts fine again. So, it happens whether the truck is cold or warm and only the first time after I start it. My last fluid/filter change was about 25k ago. I have a slow leak that I haven't found yet (I have seen tranny fluid on the ground behind the right front wheel) so I keep the fluid level topped off. This just started last week. I've read the entire forum and saw others with the same issue but theirs seems to happen all the time - not exactly the same as my issue. Any ideas?