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Have to change my ac condensor .some good ideas

I remember reading some where in this forum about how to clean out subject drain line but can't locate the post now. Will someone please direct me to it or tell me what to use to clean out the line?ThanksMOHOK

My AC was out... I was assuming the evap core had cracked again. I took it by a new mechanic to check it out which he did while I waited... about an hour. He seems interest in discovering the problem & just fixing that, than replacing a bunch of parts. He discovered there was still some freon in it... he tried to get dye into it... I think he went back & forth 3 times... in the end he succeeded in recharging it. He thiinks that the filter was not replaced on the previous repair... perhaps it was plugged & he dislodged it. Anyrate I now have cold, although still stuck on the defrost mode (vacume control problem, that we knew). So the charges were $13 in freon, $135 in labor. The labor seems high for one hour but I don't know what AC service costs these days?

Ok Gang... I just got my replacement evaporator core from the local NAPA store. (Lifetime warranty - No cost) So when I go to pull the dash out I'm going to grab the video camera and record out the whole affair. Show you that pulling the dash is really easy on a Dodge Ram!

First off, I have no experience testing or troubleshooting automotive A/C systems, but I'm a quick study. Today is a sweetheart of a day -mid-60s, sunshine, and very light breezes - a perfect Spring day (finally). I'm cleaning up the cab of my truck, trying to get the smoke smell out of it left by the previous owner. I'm spraying the soft stuff with "frebreeze", and decided to spray some into the air intake for the HVAC system. Decided to check the A/C for operation - no dice. The compressor is cycling - runs for about 3 seconds then off for 10-15. Read up on the A/C system in the 2001 FSM (thanks again Mike). Last year I bought a set of A/C guages - haven't used them yet - perfect opportunity. I follow the gauge hook-up directions & get some readings. Static reading (engine not running) is ~60 psi. Started up the truck & put the control on Max A/C. Go around to the front & read the gauges. When compressor is running the suction side drops to about 15 psi when the low pressure switch opens up, then it resets at a ~ 40 psi. So the system is holding some pressure, the compressor is doing it's job, the pressure switch seems to be operating correctly, I presume it is just low on charge. Perhaps there is a slight leak somewhere, but not bad enough to tear it apart looking for the leak. I figure I should buy a can of 134A refrigerant & charge it up. This is the point where I need some guidance. All the bloody details; evacuating the hose that leads to the gauges from the refrigerant can? What side to charge-the low side or high side? How much, or when to stop - pressures or temps or both? Thanks in advance, Joe in St Louis

It's so cold in here my coffee gets cold before I can drink it. :lmao::lmao::lmao:

Have a 2001 2500 HD Diesel 5.9 Auto Tranny. I have a major A/C leak. Leaked down with in 4 months. Are there any common problems with the A/C's on this type vehicle? I am the original owner. I had freon put in in 2007 and 2009 and Nov 2010. Is there a likely area to look for the problem? Any help will be greatly appreciated.ThanksMohok

While changing the oil on my truck last night, I noticed that water was draining from the A/C hose from the firewall. I have not had the A/C on for the last month. I have the dash selector set to floor or floor/vent. With the engine running, I watched the A/C compressor cycle on and off. What would cause the A/C compressor to cycle on and off when the A/C is not selected? Sorry, posted this in the CR forum by mistake, so am posting it here now.

While changing the oil on my truck last night, I noticed that water was draining from the A/C hose from the firewall. I have not had the A/C on for the last month. I have the dash selector set to floor or floor/vent. With the engine running, I watched the A/C compressor cycle on and off. What would cause the A/C compressor to cycle on and off when the A/C is not selected?

Will its started, I have just got the bumper off and I bet the truck raised 2 inches from just the weight . My question is can the evaporator or let me say can the A/C compressior stay hooked up while I pull eng. The reason is this A/C is the coldest A/C I have ever seen, it will get down to 29 degress in south Tx 100 plus heat, I just hate to break the seal .Has anybody ever done this?

Going to be vacuuming down my ac system soon ... And then recharge ... Any hints ?? Have the gear but not done before ,... ;)

Well all, still fussing with my heating/AC system. I swear that if it was not for the Cummins engine I would sell this truck immediately due to the "time after time after time" hassles we have been having with the climate control.Back in June or so I took it to a good shop here in town and they pulled the dash and installed a new diverter door coupling. Seems that the coupling had broken and the motor could not move the door. It worked for a few days then stopped but luckily for me it stuck in the cold position so the A/C worked fine and in Arizona in the summer thats important. Finally this fall I took the truck back to have them fix it right.Well kids, the truck has been in the shop 3 times now and it still is not IMHO working right. Second time they found something else wrong and third time they found the diverter door moving but "sticking in the frame" so they shimmed it to work.Now I am able to turn the heater control from cold to hot and the door does move changing the temp but its not right. In my feeble mind when you take it from cold to the 1/3rd position you should get air warmer than full cold. Take it to the 1/2 position and it should be halfway warm. 3/4rds position and it should be pretty warm but not full hot. This is not what happens as it is right now. Now you take it to the 1/2 position and you get either full cold or full hot. Turn it one notch left (cold) and you get full cold, or turn it one click hot and you get full hot. The door is still moving but there is no moderation, its either full hot or cold. They tell me that if the last "shimming" operation did not fix it that we have to replace the diverter door assy AND the housing that its in. That the housing where it mounts is getting old and the door is not moving correctly. Anyone else have this happen? Now to make it worse they say that this part may be NLA, no longer available from Dodge so that they cannot fix it. They will not use anything but dealer sold parts and they say that a 2002 is not supported by Dodge any longer. They are doing all this work for free once I paid for the first repair, so this is why they keep getting it back but am tired of the 20 mile drive each way and hassle with the truck.Would sure appreciate any tips or ideas? Thx,Joe

a/c clutch is cycling when heat is on. I'm not talkin defrost just regular heat.

Pulling my motor, need to unhook the condensor so that I can come straight forward with my motor, minus the oil pan. Can't lay the condensor to the side because the bottom line is hard all the way past the air filter box, can't bend that stuff... So it needs to come off and to get it off I need to evacuate the r134 charge without freezing my skin, frostbite, maming myself, and etc... Any good methods?

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=286225&highlight=compressor+damage Take a look at this if you are uncertain about adding refrigerant to a system.

I am having a problem with my a/c compressor guys , On my way back from a trip my a/c when out and I check the fuse box because I noticed that the compressor wasn't engaging so sure thing the a/c clutch fuse was blown so I replaced it and it was back on and then about two hours later of driving the fuse when out again so any idea of what I should check for or fix? also I have been noticing that sometimes the carpet of the front passenger to be wet and just the place were you put your feet not the upper part and it doesn't smell like antifreeze I thought it was water from the rain but no its also there when it hasnt rain so any ideas on that ?Thanks !

HiBeen playing around with the airconditioning on my truck (as it blows hot air and has done ever since I got it -> but its not been warm enough for me to get on it).Figuring it was low R134a or whatever - got the walmart kit and started filling - problem was it would only allow like 10% of the can to be dumped into the low pressure port/accumulator before it was complaining of too highpressure on the guage. Well I couldn;'t hear the compressor - so after reading around I figured that was it.I climbed under and diconnected the sensor/wiring harness.I then tried to use a piece of wire to bridge the wiring harness - it smoked a little - then nothing.I got my multimeter out and it says no signal. (But I'm figuring there had to be a signal to cause the wire to smoke) ?? So - did I burn something ? More importantnly - have these 2 basic questions 1) How do I run a jumper wire (which I guess needs a 12V supply) to the sensor for the a/c compressor to get it to turn on ? Simply Using a paper clip etc on the sensor end won;t work as their is no power right ? Do I need just 1 wire from the +ve terminal of battery or do I need 2 wires (1 +ve and 1 -ve _ to complete the circuit ?? 2) How do I tell if the wiring harness is burnt or having an issue ? I stick my multimeter in the two connectors - but get 0 signal. Could it be a fuse - which fuse - in cab ? left side of truck where my edge juice is sitting on - or somewhere else in a relay ? Trying to work out if A/C compressor is dead or wiring harness is dead - or fuse - and how to force a 12V signal to the A/C clutch/drive compressor to get it to start circulating so I can fill up with the R134a refrigerant hope that makes sense gonna go get a pic now ......