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I'm disabled & have to send out virtually all work. I have an original maker AirDog... out of warentee because if how I bought it... mounted to the frame rail. I like the mechanical pumps but am afraid I can't send something that complicated to a shop. Wife has the truck... broken down in Vt. So I have to make choices, long distance. I'm going to have to deal with it tomorrow.

I need some help. I run a 2001 3500 2w drive dually 5 sp pulling a 40 gn trailer. Starting friday afternoon, my truck would get sudden power loses, usually in 5th gear. It will surge several times then resume operating normally. I might drive several hundred miles then out of the blue it will start surging again. I depress the clutch to see if it dies but it just goes to idle. When it's running right there is no problem, no lose of power and no misses. This is what I have done to it since march, I've put in a new lift pump, we have some wiring issues to the lift pump which was corrected and the block pump is completely out of the picture. The lift pump is an in tank model. I checked the lift pump on Saturday and it's putting out 15psi at idle and 13psi at 2000rpm. The only code I get is a 1593 but when I put my odbII reader on it it shows no codes. I have replaced the TPS couple of months ago, I got new bosch 40 horse injectors with new fuel tubes. I would say that there may be a short in the electrical to the pump but it would die when I clutched it but it doesn't just goes to idle with no misses, normal rpm. I am wondering if the lift pump is going bad and is slowing down causing the pressure to drop, the engine can idle on lower fuel pressure but not run higher. I'm at a lose, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

So for the past few weeks my fuel pressure has dropped from 19 psi at idle and 17 psi cruising, down to 16 psi at idle and 14 psi cruising. I have checked all my hoses and they look good, put a clamp on one hose that may have had an issue. If I park the truck facing down hill it will start after a week of setting no problem, but if the truck sits level or facing up hill then it takes a long time cranking to start. If I bump the starter and let the fuel pump cycle then it will usually start quickly. I have notice that as the tank gets lower it seems that the fuel pressure drops one or two psi. Other than starting over with a new fuel pump and big line kit, I am not sure. I have read about Raptor pumps going bad, so not sure if this is the issue or not. Another thing I have noticed is once in a while when I bump the starter the fuel pump does not come on? I replaced the relay under the hood, but it still seems to be just an occasional thing. Wondering if there could be an electrical issue instead of a fuel issue?

hey guy's any info on Fuel Boss/MITUSA mechanical fuel pumps?I just e-mailed mitusa for cost,spec. and install info. the info i have found it works like oil pump.how often do you have to change those out ?? I do like the fact that i would have a back -up fuel supply oe pump stays but not needed w/ mitusa system.when out west or up in canada hunting.if anything enough to limp back to civilization. any info will help thanks

Was looking through Fuel pump options and came across this place. industrialinjection.com They rebuild fuel injection pumps for diesel engines and tout their abilities, as do all companies, however, may be something to it... http://www.industrialinjection.com/shop/category/pumps/dodge-injection-pumps/ Curious if anyone knows of these guys or not, interested about experiences.

Well, joined the forum back in Nov... had been working on plotting out our tune up/ preventative & maintenance plans and before we got anywhere within driving the truck an additional 500 miles at most we have MAJOR ISSUES... needless to say we have have the truck parked in the driveway since we put new tires on it at the end of November, we have had to start it a few times to move it for snow removal and driveway access issues... So here goes the saga of problems... this fall we noticed that we were having issues with the truck shifting around 45 mph... after much reading on this forum, I do believe that it probably is the same torque lock/ converter issue that many have been having. So, I had been calling around to different auto part stores to research alternators as a place to start... My husband also informed me that I was not the only one who had replaced the batteries in the truck in the last year or so (It would have been nice if he would have told me that a little sooner, since I am the more mechanical of us)... We had also been fighting with the 4wd for about a year... The mechanic that we were using supposedly replaced some of the parts but I do not know which ones bc he did not record it in the system and we had issues with the other work that he said he had done at the time but upon closer inspection did not do. My brother and I traced all the vacuum lines and made sure none of them were dirty/clogged/ disconnected etc.. one or two of them were dislodged/ loose so we cleaned them made sure they weren't clogged and reattached them . We also checked the diaphragm and it seemed to move in/ out easily as well... but we did not have time to get any further in diagnosing, before many more issues started to arise... My husband had a training seminar in Denver and we knew we needed new tires so we were able to combine the trip, I didn't have time before he left to change the oil so he insisted on going to a grease monkey as well while he was down there... then literally as my husband was driving home from Denver which is about an 1 hr 30 min drive up a mountain pass; a slue of other issues started... Unfortunately I wasn't in the truck at the time and my husband is not the best at paying attention to subtle vehicle noise/ performance differences. TO all the guys out there, I love my husband very much and in no way am I trying to "dis" him, we have just been together long enough that we both recognize each others strengths and weaknesses... so back to the drive back home per my husband's account; he called me and says "Sarah I think something is wrong with the truck, if I accelerate past about 60 the vehicle will not shift, just revs highier and higher and I have never seen the rpm gauge go so high..." My reaction was, well SLOW DOWN, if it;'s not shifting it's not going to just because u give it more fuel and rev the engine. Secondly, I asked him to check the temp gauge (unfortunately, we have not installed additional gauges that I had already ordered.. so we still just have stock) and make sure that he didn't need to pull over... he responded with well I am not sure what it's normally at but it doesn't seem unusually high. Well, how about the other gears? It was sluggish to get started, even when it was warmed up... So, when he got home we parked the truck and the next day I took it out to drive it to see if I could get a better feel for what was going on. First off, the truck wouldn't start... it had been cold that night probably around -10, but the truck block heater was plugged in and when I went to drive it the temp had already warmed up to around 30... when it gets that cold I have found that the truck will usually start easier if I turn the key and wait for the "wait to start" light to turn off two or three times before actually cranking the engine. However, even with this technique (which I realize is a red flag in itself) the truck would click click click try to turn over and just wouldn't go... so I got out the trust battery charger and usually if I just put it on high for less than 5 mins the truck will start right away... no such luck... so I left the charger on for about 30 mins before it would start (when it did there was quite a bit of smoke, although I don;t remember if it was black or white). Once started, the truck idle was very slow (even more than usual) so instead of going inside, I sat in the cab and rev'ed the engine for the concern of gumming etc. It took about 5 mins before I felt comfortable to let the truck sit and run while I wasn't watching it... I let it run for about 10-15 mins before I got in for the test drive. I immediately noticed that when backing up that the truck was acting very sluggish...we live right on main st in our town which is actually a HWY, so we have quite a bit of traffic and pulling out you have to be careful and quick... Which is why I panicked when I shifted into D, hit the accelerator and the truck acted like I merely let off the brake and barely pressed the accelerator, when in reality I nearly floored it. luckily we have a second lane & parking shoulder that starts at our driveway and goes through town, so I was able to creep into it... about 2 blocks of creeping with medium pressure on the accelerator the truck seemed to kick into gear and started to accelerate more normally between about 20-55mph then I did notice that once I reached 60mph I could understand what my husband was experiencing the day prior. After driving just to the next lil town which is 1.5 miles away and back I parked the truck... called our friend that is a mechanic and just started working at the garage literally across the street from our house and started reading... Our mechanic friend said he would help us out after work at the garage (so awesome to have access to the lifts & tools)... but before we could look at the truck our other vehicle decided to have a few issues that we needed to address first (so we would have a vehicle to use), we were able to plug in the code reader and at first no codes were coming up... then we had one or two codes pop up but when he looked them up there were a slue of possibilities and I lost my notebook where I wrote them down, ugg... i blame the chaos on the holidays... We decided that a good place to start would be to change the trans solenoids, replace trans filter w/ seal kit, flush trans and new fluid. Which we were planning on doing tomorrow... in preparation for finally tackling this truck I have been reading, researching and pricing a plan of action this week. Yesterday I did order a TIMBO apps, since it was something that I was thinking about anyway... but I am just getting a little overwhelmed with what parts to address especially with the current issues that I think are somewhat inner related and I fear we will have more issues as I have read through the forum bc we have had above average luck with not needing many of the issues that people have had with this truck at much lower mileages we are at about 203k... So, I need some advice... Gauges- I want basic mechanical gauges in a pillar (EGT, fuel pressure w/ low pressure light, trans temp)... I tried to order some in NOV but had problems finding a matching set, that was reasonably priced but had good reviews (quality). It shouldn't be that difficult... so if anyone has bought them recently and has a source suggestion, please let me know! AirDog II- What do I need to order in addition to the Airdog II to install on truck? Our truck specs are on signature.. Fuel Pump- Raptor: Which model? the factory replacement (FRRP)? RP-100 or RP-150? From what I have been reading and knowing that we use the truck to tow our tool trailer & our flat bed trailer, as well as hauling all sorts of other stuff up and down mountain dirt roads, I was thinking that it would be a better idea to install the RP-100 and take the time to mount it rather than just doing the factory replacement. Any Thoughts? Automatic Transmission: What do you recommend to do while we are in there replacing the solenoids, flushing, replacing filter & kit, new fluid... adjusting bands... WHAT ELSE CAN I DO TO PROLONG THE LIFE OF THE TRANS/ fix issues? Or should I be considering a total rebuild or new one? (I am hoping that I can prolong the current one so I can budget some other stuff first)- If we do replace, I think we may convert to a manual trans set up.... Sorry this is SUCH A NOVEL, I just thought I would give as much detail as possible since I am out of my comfort zone... THANK you in advance for any help/ suggestions you can provide! At this point we need 2wd to work before 4wd!!

I am thinking of running a 100 micron or something along those line in front of my raptor pump. I am running the standard screen that they send with the pump but I think that if I run a finer filter before the raptor that if will help keep it running quieter. Do you thing that its worth wild?

My Airdog 150 quit working yesterday. After checking it out I found that the pump is working fine if I jump 12 volts straight to it, which leaves me at a relay or wiring problem. Does anyone know the part number of the relay I need? Any other suggestions would also be welcomed. I really hate wiring problems!:banghead:

I'm replacing my transfer pump the one on the truck is not the original one,I bought a FASS DDRP 02.The suction is a different style fitting,it seems like a stainless tubing with a quick connect,did anybody ever experience that,to adapt the FASS pump I need to cut the stainless pipe and adapt some kind of a fitting ,in my package they sent me 2 banjo fittings /filter/rubber hose.Not sure what pump they had in there,the suction tubing must have been replaced that quick coupler seems like a good set up,it would be a waste to remove it.:duh:How can I attach pics to my thread

I have a friend with a 98 12 valve. His fuel pump is going out. He wants to put a stock pump back on for $500.00 (includes labor). I told him to get a lifetime pump from one of the three big guns. Are the fuel pumps on the 12 valves as bad as the 24 valves?

After reading a lot of advice on this and other forums, I decided that I needed to buy a fuel pressure gauge. Going on recommendations I’ve received, I ordered an inexpensive Westach gauge. When it arrived, I had a local garage install it. After they finished, I got in to drive the truck back home, a distance of 25 miles. About 7 miles out, the gauge went to zero. I pulled off, shut the engine off, and thought about it a bit. I started the engine back up and the gauge went back to around 11psi idle. It worked all the way home. The next day, when I started it up, the gauge was zero and stayed there. I called up the garage, and they said to bring it in Friday. I called up Geno’s Garage and they said to have the mechanic check all the wiring. OK, I said, and headed off to a town about 50 miles north for some necessary grocery shopping. The gauge read zero all the way up and back, but the engine felt like it normally did. Geno’s Garage got back to me and said that the lift pump itself might be bad. I didn’t think the truck would run without the lift pump running. I took the truck into the garage on Friday. The first thing they did was to put a mechanical fuel pressure gauge to check. Damn, the lift pump wasn’t working at all, so I had to have them replace it with just the standard one. Small town. The garage didn’t know if the lift pump not working would have damaged the fuel pump or not. The diesel fuel tank was from full to 3/4 up and back. I’m content to drive along the winding two lane road around 55mph or so, going through two small towns on the way. I probably drove a distance of 170 miles with the fuel pressure gauge reading zero. Is there a way to test the fuel pump to ascertain if it was damaged or not? I realize that going without the lift pump certainly wasn’t good for it, but our normal camping is often in rather remote areas, far from cell phone towers or anything else. Are there any thoughts out there to estimate the chances that the fuel pump was damaged? Thanks for any and all answers.