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Showing results for tags 'high idle'.
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Guys I am at a loss. I HOPE someone can help me, this is frustrating. Bought my first 24v Cummins, it’s an 01, 3500 dually, and 5 speed nv4500. She fires up beautifully, idles normally. Then it gots warm and it idles up, stays around 1500rpm or so. The tachometer isn’t working, I tried replacing the camshaft position sensor and it didn’t fix the tachometer, maybe communication issue? Does the CPS have anything to do with idle? OBD2 computer says idling at 1500rpm. The APPS sensor was replaced, and voltage set. Stays below 0.50 volts, around .44-.48. According to the sensors live data reading, the voltage is all over the place for the other sensors too, the apps sensor is fluctuating bad, between 0 and 5v, and same with other sensors that are sensitive to voltage. I just redid the four battery terminals, grounds were in horrible shape, but the other ends going to the block and chassis are healthy. When I put a voltage meter on the APPS, I get very small fluctuations from .44 to .48, but the live data is freaking out. Things I’ve done: 1. Calibrate APPS with Multimeter on the orange/black wire coming, while setting voltage. 2. Checked alternator, it is consistent and I couldn’t find any alternating current in the system. (Unless I need an oscilloscope to see this?) 3. Checked all connections, the ECT sensor, the ground straps, everything. 4. Replaced IAT sensor 5. Replaced CPS.. -
How to detect if the Cummins 24v VP44 ECM has been enabled for high idle?
Mopar1973Man posted an Cummins article in High Idle Switch
How to detect if the Cummins 24v VP44 ECM has been enabled for high idle? It not to hard to check to see if you have high idle software present. The only thing you need is a resistor that is a 39k ohm or greater up to no more than 100k ohm resistor. The other requirement is to have a cold engine. Engine coolant temperature must be below 140*F for this test to work properly. Just unplug the IAT sensor and take your resistor and fold the legs over and insert into the plug. Make sure to the IAT and the resistor are not touch metal or ground. You could put a fold of tape over the plug and resistor for temporary cover. Now just start your truck and leave it idle don't touch the throttle, brakes, trans (auto), etc. Leave it alone for up to 5 minutes. Typically 2-3 minutes you should hear the idle ramping up to 1,200 RPM's. If the resistor is greater than 56K ohms then the 3 cylinder high idle will pop up next after reaching 1,200 RPM's. Here is the IAT plug removed from the IAT sensor. Here is with a resistor inserted into the two sockets of the IAT plug. -
Mechanical High Idle for All Cummins Trucks Here is another version of high idle you can produce for you dodge Cummins. A member over at Cummins Forum came to me with his version of high idle. Thank you WJBell for your information and allowing me to post here on my site... WJBell's High Idle Write Up Original Information is here. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/111278-mechanical-high-idle-bomb-completed.html Since seeing Mopar Mans high idle I've been wanting to do something like it. I live in California so I really don't need it but for cold morning warms up's it's kind of nice. And if I idle it for a long time I've heard you can cake up the valves or warp cylinders. So I checked with three different dealers in my area and they all wanted $100+ to program the stock high idle. What I really wanted was the PTO idle controlled through cruise control but not available for my 2001. So... I decided to make my own PTO idle. I looked through some different posts and a couple guys did it with a high idle solenoid from Chevy's with a Rochester carb. So I went to pick & Pull today and picked one up for $7 off of a late 70's early 80's truck. Then I went to Ace hardware and picked up some 1/16 steel cable, a cable end stop and a thing to slip over the cable to tie it down. The one guy I saw mounted it on his APPS to push the throttle open, like an extended stop screw for the throttle. I didn't want to leave my APPS cover off or hack it up so I looked where I could mount it where the pedal pulls the cable under the dash. It wouldn't fit behind the pedal lever but there was a place where I could mount it where it pulled the top of the pedal where the cable was. And there is a bolt there in perfect position to mount the existing bracket on the solenoid. All I had to do is hacksaw off part of the bracket and it fit perfect. So I got a piece of 1/4 thick aluminum roughly about 1 3/4" long and 3/4" wide and mounted it to the end piece of the solenoid, drilling through them both and securing it with one machine screw. Then on the other end where the cable comes through I got a short, 3/4" long bolt (not sure what size but something that will fit within the aluminum bracket) and drilled it out though the center. Then drilled the aluminum bracket a little smaller than the bolt and force threaded the bolt into the bracket. (poor mans tap & die. Hey it's aluminum!) So now the cable feeds in through the top of the bolt and you can fine tune the idle speed by tightening or backing out the bolt. So I ran the cable through, looped it around the pedal and tied it together with a 1/8" (can't remember what it's called) with an allen set screw to tighten it down. I already had a switch wired through a relay up in my overhead sunglasses compartment so I just wired it to the solenoid. Started the truck up, flipped the switch and tapped the throttle and idle went up to about 1400. Turned off the switch and it dropped to normal. The solenoid doesn't have enough power to raise the idle by itself, you have to tap the throttle. After some adjustments I got the high idle to right around 1100-1200. It's sweet. Start the truck, hit the switch and tap the throttle and you're at 1100 rpms. Turn off the switch and you're back to normal. There's no effect on the pedal, you can't feel any binding, etc. Works pretty sweet. Not bad for a couple hours work and under $20! I don't have 3 cylinder high idle but if I want that I'll just unplug three of the spark plugs. The part number for the solenoid is 1997461 and here's a list of cars it comes on. Hit your local pick & pull and you can pick one up for less than $10. 1977 : Chevrolet : Corvette : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Monte Carlo : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Camaro : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Camaro LT : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Camaro Z28 : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Full Size Chevrolet : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Caprice Classic : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Caprice Estate : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Impala : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Impala Custom : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Nova/Chevy II : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Nova : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Nova Concours : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Nova Custom : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Chevelle/Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevrolet : Malibu CLassic : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Corvette : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Camaro : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Camaro LT : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Camaro Z28 : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Full Size Chevrolet : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Caprice : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Impala : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Nova/Chevy II : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Nova : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Nova Custom : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Chevelle/Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevrolet : Malibu CLassic : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevy Truck : Blazer Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : Blazer Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : C10, C20, C30, K10, K20, K30 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : C10 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : C20 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : C30 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : K10 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : K20 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : K30 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : C10, C20, C30, K10, K20, K30 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : C10 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : C20 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : C30 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : K10 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : K20 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : K30 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : El Camino : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : Chevy Truck : El Camino : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Chevy Truck : G10, G20, G30 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : G10 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : G20 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : Chevy Truck : G30 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : G10, G20, G30 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : G10 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : G20 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : Chevy Truck : G30 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : C+K 1500-3500 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : C1500 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : C2500 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : C3500 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : K1500 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : K2500 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : K3500 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : C+K 1500-3500 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : C1500 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : C2500 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : C3500 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : K1500 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : K2500 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : K3500 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : G1500-3500 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : G1500 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : G2500 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : G3500 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : G1500-3500 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : G1500 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : G2500 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : G3500 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : Jimmy/Yukon Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1978 : GMC Truck : Jimmy/Yukon Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 1977 : GMC Truck : Sprint/Caballero : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1978 : GMC Truck : Sprint/Caballero : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530 1977 : Oldsmobile : Full Size Oldsmobile (Rwd) : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : 98 Regency : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Custom Cruiser : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Delta 88 : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Delta 88 Royale : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Luxury 98 : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Omega : V8-350 5.7L - notes: CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Omega Brougham : V8-350 5.7L - notes: CHEV ENG 1977 : Oldsmobile : Omega F85 : V8-350 5.7L - notes: CHEV ENG
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1998 cummins 5.9 24v having problems with po113 code, cannot erase, IAT sensor reads -40 in live data. That reading dose not change if i unplug the sensor, leave it plugged in, or put a jumper in the IAT plug, it reads -40 no matter what. I am pulling 4.8v on my multimeter at the IAT plug with both test leads in connector. I put a 2.7k ohm resistor in IAT plug and i can clear the po113 code and run truck, forcing IAT to read around 114. How ever something is forcing the truck into high idle and then what i believe to be 3 cyl high idle. It dose this if i run truck without resistor in and check engine light on to. I have checked continuity on both IAT conector wires back through ecm plug, along with the wires for the CTS and MAP sensor. They all tested good when i ohm tested them. I have also replaced the IAT sensor CTS and MAP sensor. I pulled IAT sensor and check resistance on it and it seemed good still as the reading dropped when i put heat to it with blow dryer. I also took alternator to local Oreillys and had it bench tested 6 times and it passed every time, (i knew for sure it was charging but thought maybe bad diode.) Also have to brand new batteries, and have researched ground locations and cleaned every single one to shinny metal.The truck also has smarty but programmed to stock, along with edge juice with aditude which is completely disconnected. However before i disconnected it completely it said the ecm was getting 14.2 volts with truck running is that normal? Also the truck has a high idle kit of some sort installed but it works fine, actuator type mounted under throttle housing. It only allows high idle at 1200 rpm and works fine whe. Engaged and dis engaged. I have run out of ideas any input would be greatly appreciated. -
2001 idling high, rough idle
CumminsHokie posted a topic in 2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
Gents and ladies, This is my first post on any forum ever but I figured mopar mans forum would be the best. I'm really stuck on what's happening with my truck and it's so annoying because I just got it running beautifully not too long ago. I will start off with some back ground of the truck and the problem. Its a 2001 with about 210k miles, 2wd, automatic trans, bhaf air filter, 4 inch straight pipe, and until recently (I took it off thinking maybe it was causing my issues) an old quadzilla adrenaline that replaced my super chips (I say old because it is one of the first boxes made and I got it used, had the big power resistor replaced, then tested at quadzilla and verified). Now the problem started about a week ago when I noticed that my rpms were kind of bouncing around at 1000 when coming to a stop from higher speeds. I would be doing about 50 and then let off the accelerator pedal, apply brakes, and once in maybe 2nd gear the rpms kind of bounced at 1000 and you could hear it in the engine. They would then return to about 750 once below say 10 mph. This happened for 2 days and on the second day I arrived home and placed the truck in park and noticed it was idling at 1000 rpms. I also noticed a very random, intermittent spike in the rpms as it sat there idling and could hear it in the engine. I'm not sure what a miss sounds like but that's my best guess. This is when I removed my adrenaline. The next day the problems persisted and I noticed that the truck was running rougher than usual. I hooked up my scan gauge 2 and saw that my tps was at 1 and was spiking to about 12 at all times. Once above 12 or so it would stop spiking. As a quick fix attempt I turned down my timbo apps until the rpms sounded about normal and then reset/calibrated the apps. The tps is still stuck on 1 and spiking to around 12 randomly. I recently replaced my iat sensor (not with a CUMMINS part) as it was faulty and was causing dead pedal issues so I unplugged that thinking the cheap sensor I bought was causing it. No luck. I then unplugged my map sensor as I've read many times that this cause rough idling. No luck. It has also been cleaned recently and seems to be functioning properly per my scan gauge. Since readjusting my apps the rpms have come down a little but are still high in park and neutral only(goes to normal when in drive). The only other information I could see worthy to include is that when I had the quad on I didn't tap the pump wire so I only had levels 0-2. When driving with it on 2 or 1 I noticed what seemed to be the tc locking and unlocking and it got more noticeable as the levels increased from 0-2(can't really feel it with it on 1). I assumed this was because it is an old box but idk that it could have been creating additional ac noise? I havent been been able to do any troubleshooting but when I get time this weekend I will be first checking the alternator for excess noise (even though it's fairly new) and then testing the entire apps harness per instructions found on this site. The only other thing I can think to check is the camshaft position sensor. Any thoughts? I have no codes being thrown and no dash lights illuminated. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and I really want/need to get this thing fixed. She's the love of my life. forgot to add that I also have a raptor 100 and gauges, though glowshift. Fuel pressure has always been 18 at idle and 16 at wot. It seems to be a little lower now from what I assume is because the truck is idling higher. It sits closer to 17 idling in park. -
I just got done installing my high idle switch. I went to try it out, but nothing happened, I waited for about 10 minutes on each setting as I know it's not an instant thing. I don't think it is the switch as I have a scan gauge and it shows the IAT and ECT values change with each twist of the knob and the TPS voltage was also reading 0. I took the truck in 2 weeks ago to have the TSB for the high idle unlocked, they said to bring it back if it didn't work, but is there anything else I should check before I deal with the dealership again? -
Just what the title says, I'm searching for anyone with a smarty (S-03) tuner in the Colorado high Rockies (I'm in Leadville, can travel) who would be willing to meet up with me and activate the high idle programming in my 01 24v so I can use my moparman high idle kit. Willing to pay cash or beer, whichever you would prefer. Also,sorry if I posted in the wrong place, wasn't sure where this applied. -
It seems since I brought my truck into the dealer for the 3 cylinder high idle cold start enabling my grid heaters haven't worked. I see the wait to start light come on but the voltage doesn't change. I have to plug it in even at 0'C now or it won't start. Lots of white smoke for the first few minutes when I do get it running . Could there be another problem I'm missing maybe? Can a dealer possible program stuff to mess up or maybe accidentally delete my grid heaters somehow? -
Ok Gang... I heard and listen to a bunch of you that are not quite up to par with wires and doing this mod... Well I sat down and re-drew the wiring layout using the actual parts and so you can see its rather easy to do... so here you go... hopefully this will help you all out a bit! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=101&stc=1&d=1261188730 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=102&stc=1&d=1261196659
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Announcement: I will start producing a combination high idle/3 cyl high idle/MPG fooler box in a quality manner. This will not be a 1 time thing. I am going to order in bulk & produce probably 25 at a time. All plug & play with a small durable weatherproof connector to go through the firewall. ECT & IAT wiring will be OEM style plugs so that you do not have to cut & splice the harness. It'll be similar to the MAP sensor harness on a tuner or boost fooler:Unplug connector from sensor, plug in HI/MPG plug to sensor & plug in HI/MPG plug to truck's harness.I am trying to work with a well known diesel performance distributor, so that it will always be in stock for order.Also, a percentage WILL go towards maintaining Mopar 1973 man's site, as that is where it all started & He is the person who figured it all out.It will be about a month before I can truly gear up for this venture. This all has to be negotiated.I will do my best to find an attractive box or pod that can be mounted aestheticly & possibly lit switches to indicate what feature is engaged.Please give me some time to work this all out.YOU WILL NEED THE SOFTWARE IN YOUR ECM ENABLED IF IT IS NOT ALREADY.Full instructions will be available & supplied with the unit.Thank you,Ed- 30 replies
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I went out and started my truck today, temperature out was about -12 C. I started it and it went up on high idle after about a minute, didn't go into 3 cyl...and after about 3-4 minutes of ruunning, it kicked itself out and went back to a normal idle. Temp gauge was showing 120 on my attitude monitor if I remember correctly. I even tried the high idle fooler, wouldn't go back into high idle. Shut the truck off and restarted it and still no high idle...flicked the fooler on agian in finally in about 3-4 after doing so, it reved back up to 1200 rpm. Surprised me that the high idle would stop when the engine was still cold, I've had warmer days that it worked flawlessly
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Just got back to the states again and the truck has been setting for the last 4 months. When I start it in the morning you never know what its gonna do, it will either rev up and down or just go straight to almost 1000 rpm. It went to 1000 this morning and I got about 2 minutes down the road and it started idleing normal. My alternator is charging at idle and I just ordered one of Goulds rebuilt kits so I hope this fixes both problems but I dont know.
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OK.......... I have a Superchip Programmer, it came with the truck. I put the truck back in stock mode and had the high idle turned on at the dealer it worked fine while in stock mode. I put the tuner back on the truck and the high idle didn't work. Figuring that the tuner screwed something up and already paying $90 for the dealer I just gave up on the high idle.Fast forward to this winter. I decide to just go and have the dealer re turn the high idle on. I make an appointment for this morning and head to the dealer.The service manager comes back and gets me to show me the "flash" has already been done. I tell him yea I know it has, I had it done here. I also tell him that the High idle isn't working.The mechanic says he thinks that he can just flash it again and see if that works, but the service manager over rules him and says NO it may screw something up by re flashing it again and not to do it. He's not sure why it isn't working if the flash is already on the truck.I finally tell him look, you're the Dodge Dealer if you can't tell me why it's not working or what you're going to do to fix it just give me my keys and I'm outta here.
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i just went out and fired up "Blue" (my truck) its about 8deg out and its gunna take a while to get her warmed up, so i was thinking, rather than a mechanical high idle mod, what if i put the engine under load? would there be a problem with simply applying the parking brake and dropping it into drive? (aside from having the vehicle running and in gear without anyone in it...... but i would be in it so that is a non issue, the only way i would consider leaving it unattended would be if there was a safer system or if i could devise a safer system other than the parking brake) seems to me it would warm up a lot quicker if it were under load and i think that would also solve the problem of exhaust valve "gunk" build up that occurs when a diesel is left to idle for extended periods. anyone have any thoughts on the idea? i decided i needed to edit the original post as i was not conveying my entire thought process, what i added is in bold and italicized . -
I just bought my truck a few months ago, this is my first diesel and I am very happy with it. I've been looking into getting the high idle and 3 cylinder high idle enabled on it and getting the fooler as I am tired of waiting for it to warm up. My concern is does the 3 cylinder high idle wear 3 cylinders more than the other 3? Does the firing order alternate when in 3 cylinder high idle? I just don't want to tear the engine up. I would think that if Cummins included this in the software that it would be ok to use, after all they are the experts.
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I just got my S-03 smarty. I've read through the manual and have an idea on how to use it. However, the manual don't tell me how to just turn on the high idle in the stock ECM program. When I load a catcher program (they all have high idle enabled in them) to the ECM, the smarty stores much of the original ECM program and then vin locks so It can't be used on another truck. I can restore the original program to my truck and then the smarty unlocks so it can be used on another truck. So my question is when the original program is restored to the ECM is the high idle turned off or left on in the ECM? There is no specific function in the smarty to turn on the high idle feature, so how can I turn it on for a buddies truck and still have my smarty to use on my truck? If loading a catcher program on the buddies truck turns on high idle and then restoring his original program leaves high idle on and unlocks the smarty, then all is cool. Just trying to understand how to do it. Oh, the manual also says "If you have a performance-enhancing device installed, it must be removed.". I have a PowerMax3 on the truck which does boost fooling and taps the VP44. Can I just set it to factory setting (off or 0) setting, or do I need to unplug the boost fooler cable from the MAP, reconnect the factory cable and detach the tap to the VP44 when I load a catcher program to the truck? Thanks Jim
