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How to remove the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump the quick and easy way. Takes approximately 45 minutes for me to remove the VP44 Injection pump. Remove the Mopar1973Man Crankcase vent (if applicable) Using a 10mm socket remove the four air horn bolts and one dipstick bolt. Using a 7/16 or 11mm socket loosen the top clamp of the intake boot. Move the grid heater and intake horn out of your way. Pack a shop rag in the intake to prevent stuff from falling in the intake manifold. Using a 13mm socket loosen the 3 bolts holding the APPS sensor and unplug and move over toward the driver side fender. Now unplug the VP44 main connector and wire tap . This connector is a two step plug lock. Pull the release tab and wiggle the plug out then pull a bit more on the release and the plug should release fully. Now using a 10mm loosen the 3 bolts holding the 1,2,4 injection rail in place. Using a 3/4" wrench loosen 1,2,4 injection lines. Now remove 1,2,4 injection lines as a group. Using a 3/4" wrench remove the overflow valve banjo and remove your supply line (may differ from mine being a big line kit) Now remove the crankcase vent. Just unscrews normal right hand threads. Do not pry on the nipple. Use an oil filter wrench or a strap wrench to loosen stubborn vent covers. Now remove the pump shaft nut with a 1 1/16 inch socket. Be careful removing the nut and lock washer that you don't drop them down into the gear case. A stubby Phillips screwdriver and a magnet is handy you can slide it off the shaft onto the Phillips screwdriver. Using a 23mm socket roll the alternator towards the coolant bottle to bring the keyway on the pump gear to TDC position and then install your gear puller and pull the gear loose on the shaft. Now loosen the 3,5,6 lines but you do not have to remove the injection line set. Now you want to loosen the 2 bolts on the rear bracket with a 13mm socket. Now remove the 4 nuts holding the pump to the gear case. Now careful kick the 3,5,6 lines out there nipples towards the block. Now lightly pry the VP44 injection pump away from the case and remove. Check for the key in the shaft make sure its present. This is what you should have after removal...
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How to remove the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump the quick and easy way. Takes approximately 45 minutes for me to remove the VP44 Injection pump. Remove the Mopar1973Man Crankcase vent (if applicable) Using a 10mm socket remove the four air horn bolts and one dipstick bolt. Using a 7/16 or 11mm socket loosen the top clamp of the intake boot. Move the grid heater and intake horn out of your way. Pack a shop rag in the intake to prevent stuff from falling in the intake manifold. Using a 13mm socket loosen the 3 bolts holding the APPS sensor and unplug and move over toward the driver side fender. Now unplug the VP44 main connector and wire tap . This connector is a two step plug lock. Pull the release tab and wiggle the plug out then pull a bit more on the release and the plug should release fully. Now using a 10mm loosen the 3 bolts holding the 1,2,4 injection rail in place. Using a 3/4" wrench loosen 1,2,4 injection lines. Now remove 1,2,4 injection lines as a group. Using a 3/4" wrench remove the overflow valve banjo and remove your supply line (may differ from mine being a big line kit) Now remove the crankcase vent. Just unscrews normal right hand threads. Do not pry on the nipple. Use an oil filter wrench or a strap wrench to loosen stubborn vent covers. Now remove the pump shaft nut with a 1 1/16 inch socket. Be careful removing the nut and lock washer that you don't drop them down into the gear case. A stubby Phillips screwdriver and a magnet is handy you can slide it off the shaft onto the Phillips screwdriver. Using a 23mm socket roll the alternator towards the coolant bottle to bring the keyway on the pump gear to TDC position and then install your gear puller and pull the gear loose on the shaft. Now loosen the 3,5,6 lines but you do not have to remove the injection line set. Now you want to loosen the 2 bolts on the rear bracket with a 13mm socket. Now remove the 4 nuts holding the pump to the gear case. Now careful kick the 3,5,6 lines out there nipples towards the block. Now lightly pry the VP44 injection pump away from the case and remove. Check for the key in the shaft make sure its present. This is what you should have after removal... View full Cummins article
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Anyone know the timing advance on so and ho vp 44 pumps and the hot rod pumps Want to tune a quad adr thanx
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Since I kept seeing a on/off P0216 that would come and go, I came across a great deal on a new VP-44 rebuild. Do I have to have my codes cleared or will they clear up on their own? If I dont clear the codes, will my truck not operate as normal??BYW, there is an excellent Youtube guide on how to remove and install a VP-44 pump.
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Trucks been throwing the 1689 code. I started to test the truck to see how often it throws the cel. 1689 every time. It will cut the power for a few seconds EVERY time it hits 2500ish rpms, it only happens at 2500rpm's. why would it be doing it at a specific rpm? I thought for a while it was only doing it under hard acceleration but its cutting out at 2500?????? Any ideas???
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Hello. I was wondering if anybody can answer me this one just to satisfy my curiosity. Theres a guy over on CF who's Raptor 100 quit due to dirt in the gears. He got a P0230 which makes sense and also a p1689 code. How can lift pump trouble cause a 1689? The last time I got one the VP was done. What really baffles me is he said once the lift pump was fixed it cleared all the codes. What am I missing?
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Hi guys! Two days ago I had my Airdog100 installed at a shop local to the area I live. That night I went and picked it up and I had 22 miles to drive home. It idled fine when I left the shop, partway home it kinda sputtered alittle like there was a dead pedal for a couple seconds. Parked in garage and next day went to go get kids and it did it again with the pedal. I got it home and looked it over. Two hours later went to go pick kids up and it wouldnt start at first. I could hear the pump engage and then I left key on for about 30 sec just in case it needed that time to build pressure. It did finally start and rpm's were from 800 down to 500 jumping back and forth. It idled for about two minutes and it died and would not start. When installing the pump they broke the fuel pressure sending unit but I had them put a gauge on there and they said it was jumping between 15-20. So, I towed it back to the shop. Yesterday they looked at it and called them last night and they said it wasn't sucking enough fuel from the tank so they put a drawstraw in. Kinda worries me they didn't know what they were doing. My main question is if they said all of that was caused by not enough fuel getting sucked out of the tank and starving the pump I assume that means low pressure as well which is weird cuz they told me 15-20. Would this incident have caused any damage to the VP44? I guess being that it's crucial to have good fuel pressure I guess it ran for about 40 minutes or so on I would imagine low or no pressure according to them. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!
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First new to site. I have another vp44 question (sorry). I replaced my vp44 back in oct 2011 and also added the raptor frrp pump and i made a big line from fuel filter to vp pump. both were purchased form thoroughbred diesel. At the time i was working out of town and wife was driving it when it did not restarting in the wendys drive through. so i had her tow it to a diesel shop to be looked at. them came back with needing a new vp44 pump. so i order the parts and installed them, got the truck running and drove it 20 miles or so. Got home it sat for 30min and went to start it and it took way longer then normal. So i thought the pump might be making to much pressure so i unplugged the cable to the raptor and the truck fired right up. plugged the cable back in and it hard starts. Crank pressure is 11-12. idle is 16-17 and wot 14-15. so i let the problem go as the truck manly sets and when I do drive it I let it run never turning it off, so today I drove it, turn it off and lets just say she got towed home will not restart. crank psi 12. Not sure but i think the vp44 has gone bad. have no codes. What do you guys think. Thanks for the help.
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- fuel pressure
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Hi new to site and I have a question about the code that came up on my truck it is a 2002. 2500 , 24 valve 5.9 and the code is 1693 what does that mean? I have no idea myself .Thanks for any heip you can give me
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Hello, all. Was out enjoying the day with the kids after work. Drove to the park. Went to go home truck started fine, drove away half way home truck died. Lost power, dead pedal and pulled off the road. I had 15-16 pound of fuel pressure, called my dad he brought out my snap on modus and recieved the gift of the P-1688 code. I tried to restart the truck after a min or two after pulled over. it wanted to start but didn't. I could here the airdog pump running when the key was cycled. Truck had been running fine. When i was home I varied fuel at the inlet of the VP. tried cracking injectors 1,3,5. but nothing. I trust the knowledge of Mike and the others on here the most. Not to bash the other sites. Now here's the question. Yes, I searched this out on the forums. Who do you guys in your honest opinion's would be the best vendor to get one from? I'm not running anything crazy, just a Edge EZ. I thank you guys for the help.John
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just bought my truck about 2 weeks ago and today when i started it ,i got out on the road and it would not run over 1200 rpm i had to pull over and turn the truck off and then start it back up then it went on no problem the rest of the day. The codes i pulled on truck was PO122 and P1693 on the PCU and P0216 and P1693 on the ECU. Could somebody help on what is the problem. Thanks
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My injection pump went out last week on my 2000 5.9L Dodge. It had been running just fine, about 20mpg.I got an error code of P1688. So I went to the vendor list here and ordered one from Diesel Auto Power.So far everything has worked out with replacing the pump. Except when I pulled the old pump out the keyway stayed in the gear instead of coming out with the pump. I was able to grab the keyway with a pair of vise grip's and pull it out. :pray:I think I didn't move the gear but if it has been moved do I have to remove the cover and check for TDC on the gears? I hate working out in the snow, ice and wind.Is there anyway to tell if the timing has moved without removing the cover on the front of the engine?Thanks Jim
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Ok first of let me vent here a second... (You've been warned!) I got a phone call from a gent this evening upset at his truck because of hard starting and P1689 error code randomily coming. He admits he's got a Raptor fuel pump, Edge Juice and 100 HP injectors. That fine... But the admits he's selling it because he's tired of all the VP44 failures and problem. WHOA! Stop the train... This is where I'm getting really tired of people giving the VP44 a bad name now pay attention. Now I asked him of his source of fuel. His response is he's running red dye fuel from a farm tank because its free. Then ask him of the the fuel filter he's running. His response is a cheap wix/napa filter. So now whining about VP44 failures but he's feeding it dirty watered down fuel and using cheap filters and wonder why the VP44 are not lasting. VP44 injection pump are a great pump and work very very well only if you feed them right... [*]Fuel lubricity of <450 HFRR (He admits in using 2 cycle oil ) [*]Fuel pressure of >14 PSI (Raptor pump and no lower than 16 PSI ) [*]Filters of <10 Microns [*]Little to no water (We all know farm fuels get water from time to time from sitting in the weather ) So what I'm finding out is people are abusing the pumps by cheating and then blame the pump for the poor quality of fuel and filters used. I'm really getting sick and tired of all the VP44 bashing...
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Here is my deal, My truck was running fine then just died sort of felt like it jumped out of gear but that could of been the loss of power. Refire run really rough only idle no foot feet response. Now doesn't start at all. So what I have learned so far is pump must of went.So my truck is a 99 but I have a pump on a 2001 motor is it the same? I sort of want to be sure I'm 600 miles from the 01 pump and don't want to rent a car and drive that far if it might not work. Thanks
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- fuel system
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