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I was warned on a few forum sites that I shouldn't do the NAPA replacement master and slave cylinders for the clutch system. I was also told that they are nearly impossible to bleed out the air in the system. Well... I figured out a way of doing it and it was very easy to do! Now there is no more need for expensive dealer units or high performance units. You can purchase the parts at your local NAPA auto parts store for about $150 buck and replace both units.

First thing first remove all you old system plumbing and all in piece...

Mopar's Notes: This is a requirement and can't be skipped. You must remove the entire hydraulic system.

There is two spots that have clips holding the tubing. One is under the cowling and the other is just above the transmission on a seam in the body metal. It will take a little working it but you can feed the whole system up through the top...

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Now take the cotter pins out and then take a small rod and punch out the roll pins holding the tubing to both the master and slave cylinders. Remove the tubing from both units.

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Now take the new slave cylinder and hold it upright with the plumbing hole upwards and fill the slave cylinder till full. Insert the new seal and install the tubing to the slave cylinder with it roll pin. Don't forget the cotter pin too. Now install the master cylinder with its roll pin and cotter pin to the plumbing and hook up the reservoir. This is the important part must should you hang the system so the plumbing is up and down.

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Fill the reservoir with brake fluid. Here is the bleeding part. The slave cylinder has two band holding the pin inward. Release the tabs by twisting them out of the slots. Now slowly release and push the pin. Allow it to make full cycles inward and outwards. Watch the fluid level for it to rise and fall on every cycle also watch for air bubbles. Once the air bubbles quit rising into the reservoir you done bleeding. Push the pin in again Fill the reservoir one last time and close the lid.

Mopar's Notes: Make sure to keep the reservoir up-right at all time and don't push on the master cylinder or clutch pedal during the install.

Now carefully feed the slave cylinder back down to the bell housing using the original routing of the tubing. Remember to install the tubing clips back under the cowling and down by the transmission. Install the slave cylinder first. Leave the tabs hooked on the slave cylinder during install. Now install the master cylinder you'll have to get a second person or a object to hold the master cylinder in place so you can get the nuts on the studs. Don't forget the foam and the washer that goes on the pedal shaft.

Now on first application of the clutch pedal the tab on the slave cylinder will tear automatically.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F24EkNLuG9w

 

 

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JDHudsn

Unpaid Member

@Mopar1973Man if my clutch feels spongy should I bleed and see if that’s a remedy? Upgrade and get a new one since I upgraded to the dual disk? Thinking I need an adjustable one since I have to burry the clutch in the floor to disengage. This video helped a lot!!!

(edited)
  • Owner
2 hours ago, JDHudsn said:

if my clutch feels spongy should I bleed and see if that’s a remedy?

 

A spongy clutch pedal is a sign of air in the system. You have to pull the entire system out ot bleed it. There is a large loop that is above the reservoir height so it common for air bubbles to hang in that loop. The only way to get them out is to remove it, hang the system, then bleed it. 

2 hours ago, JDHudsn said:

Upgrade and get a new one since I upgraded to the dual disk? Thinking I need an adjustable one since I have to burry the clutch in the floor to disengage.

 

Highly suggest against the upgrade. Way too many people play with the adjust and hyperextend the throwout bearing past the pressure plate fingers trying to make up for poorly bleed clutch system with air. 

Edited by Mopar1973Man