6.7L Ram Cummins EGR Delete
This article is written for offroad use and/or track racing. EGR deletes are illegal for highway use in the US.
- The first step you'll have to do is disconnect the battery grounds and drain the coolant from the radiator. You only need to drain about 1/2 the coolant out since you are only working on the top part of the engine. Batteries being disconnected just ensures safety and nothing being shorted out.
- You want to remove the plastic decorative engine cover. There are four 10mm head bolts holding the cover on. Make sure to pull the engine oil dipstick out before removal.
Now on the front of the engine, you want to remove the cross over EGR tube. There are 2 V-band clamps holding the tube. Also, there is one 10mm head bolt tucked up under the tube bolted to the front of the head.
- Now unhook the plug on the EGR valve. This requires using a screwdriver and pulling the red tab outwards to unlock the pull then squeeze the tab as usual to unplug.
- Unbolt the EGR valve from the intake horn. There are 10mm head bolts mounting it to the intake horn.
This point you want to clean any old gasket material and excessive carbon up. I used a shop vacuum to pull a vacuum near the port and loosen the carbon up with my finger. As for the gasket, the same was hold the shop vacuum near the port as you scrap the old material off.
- While at the intake horn the throttle valve is just below the EGR valve. Make sure to unplug the throttle valve and leave it unplugged. You could install a throttle valve delete as well to improve performance but not required!
Now install the block off plate to the intake horn. I used the Sinister EGR delete kit. On the back side of the plate is a groove for the o-ring. Just careful press the o-rings into place with your fingers. The groove is tight enough to hold the o-ring for you.
- Here is where things get a bit more fun. EGR bypass on the passenger side has a set of heat shields. you have to remove them. There are two 8mm head bolts and three 10mm nuts. ew of them are kind of hidden so make sure you find them all.
- After the heat shield is removed out of the way. Now you can remove the four 10mm bolts holding the exhaust bypass in place. Don't remove at this point leave in place. Just remove the bolts.
- Now unbolt the stepper motor. It mounted in place with four 10mm head bolts. Leave it in place for right now. Make sure to unplug any electrical on the servo.
Now you can remove the bypass valve and the stepper motor together as a unit.
- Now you have to make a bit of room for the EGR cooler removal. Remove the crankcase vent hose. Also, while your right there remove the two coolant hoses running over the EGR cooler.
- Now unbolt the two 15mm head bolts mounting the EGR cooler to the manifold. This is a pain in the tail end. The 2 nuts are at the rear of the EGR cooler which are rather difficult to access and see. Take your time. Make sure to fish both nuts before lifting the cooler off. Really would suck to drop a nut into the exhaust manifold and ruin a turbo.
- Remove the V-band clamp from the exhaust cross over elbow and the EGR cooler.
Now you can lift the EGR cooler out. There is a stud that the rear of the cooler mount on. This makes rather difficult and tight quarters lifting the cooler up and attempt to slide out of the mounting bracket.
- Now the removal of the EGR cooler mounting. There are two 14mm head bolts running from the fender toward the head.They are below the edge of the mounting.
Now you can install the block off plates for the exhaust manifold. One plate will have a plug in the center. This one goes to the rear of the manifold. The other block off plate without the port is installed in the front port of the exhaust. You'll be reusing the exhaust gaskets from the old hardware.
- Now you can reinstall the crankcase vent hose.
Using the new coolant hose from the Sinister EGR Delete Kit now connect the two coolant port that went to the EGR cooler.
- Now in the kit, there is a metal bracket provided to attach the transmission dipstick and coolant tube. The bracket is bolted to the head using the old hardware and its location is directly behind the coolant port on the head. Attach your dipstick tube and coolant tube to this bracket.
- Refill with coolant. Make sure to open the air bleed port on the coolant line. Check for leaks!
- (Optional) Install the plastic engine cover. You'll find it rather floppy and not worth installing.