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2nd Generation Dodge 12 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1994 to 1998 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L 12 Valve Cummins Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
514 topics in this forum
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Boy there is a lot of Cummins floating around with lot of miles! WARNING: Foul language is used... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=x64Ay8EnOhU
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Last night I pulled a powerstroke (imagine that ) on a trailer and I came up with 8000lbs for total load. Now I don't know if anyone notices when they are pulling, but I hit an "EGT wall" at 900F when maintaining speed. Keeping 60mph going up a few steep hills and such the max I saw was 15psi/900F. However on the return trip (with just the trailer), same max, 15psi/900F. Seems with any load at all I just rise to 900F and it just stops. So at what EGT do you guy's hit this "wall"? Don't take this the wrong way and think I mean flooring it up a hill, but just maintaining speed with a trailer what do you all hit?
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I finally figured out how to get the grids on a switch. By utilizing the positive wires that energize the grid heater relays, you are able to take control of when the relays energize. To do this, all you need to do is put a switch somewhere between those wires so that you are able to close or open the connection and therefore keep the relay from energizing. The two wires you will need are the orange and black one, and the yellow and black one. The other 2 wires are green and are the ground. You can switch either one, the ground or the positives. I chose the positives because I only used one switch. Having 4 batteries, I do not see the need to only be using one grid…
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Decided to make a movie on my way here of this one longg hill. You can tell how long it is from how long it was at 7psi.. Cruise was set at 55mph and stuff just like I show at the end of the movie. This is just proof of how going 55 gets you mileage. 7psi and 800f is normal 80mph specs (compared to going 80mph up this hill at probably 20psi 1000F).. You can see before the hill it was running around 500F 2psi, that was on flat kinda uphill ground. This hill is an absolute killer for gassers. They keep up for maybe 5 seconds then they lose all their momentum and can go from my bumper to about 20 car lengths+ back. Anyways, I found it kinda neat, thought I'd share it…
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I know the 98+ trucks are idiot gauges and the 97- trucks are supposed to have "real" readings but what exactly are your alls gauges saying? And for those of you with mechanical gauges, what do they say in comparison to stock gauge? I started my truck up and got 90psi at around 800rpm, and 35F engine block. As it warmed up I was seeing lower numbers and after running a few minutes was down in the 70's. As you can see, the gauge in the cab hardly moved, and of course is no where near actual pressures..
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question, does ur eng harness have the tps plug, just hanging? think its a 3 pin....
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Recently bought my 2nd 97 12v. Currently has a long warmup cycle 20 miles + and was going to replace the thermostat (with a big block per Michaels suggestion) Turns out I have a small amount of oil in my coolant :sad4:. both the thermostat and oil cooler have formagasket and the heater core was recently replaced. I am suspecting that the oil cooler was recently checked or replaced and perhaps the form in place gasket is not so good. Question is what year make and model thermostat do you suggest? Secondly does the oil cooler break down and leak with age like the heater core? I do not seem to have coolant in the oil and am hoping it's a problem that replacing the gas…
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Got bored and went out and stared at the beast, being 16F out and nowhere to go I decided to get a little curious. Took the intake off and measured just how hot the grids actually got. Topped out around 500F.
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In short, yes. Though we will not have devastating results from not using it like the next generation cummins, it does help the lift pump and all parts of the fuel system. I noticed a ticking in my lift pump one day, dumped in some 2-stroke and it fixed it right up. Another thing I noticed was it does not smoke as much in the morning with the 2-stroke. Having the timing up, the beast hates the cold and smokes like a freight train until the EGT's are over 400, but the other day, I started it and couple minutes later went back over and said uhhh, wheres the smoke! All I saw was a blue haze instead of a white cloud. I am not exactly sure how 2-stroke can have such an i…
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- 10 replies
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I know there are a lot of people wondering about where the "sweet" spot is on the cummins for mileage and I am here to tell you that there is no sweet spot. Speed kills. I have ran numerous tests and proven that every 5mph gain costs you 2mpg. A while back I was testing this theory and on a 70mph trip I got 21mpg, on a 60mph trip I got 25mpg, at 55mph I was at 26.6mpg. So I theorized that doing 65 on this 700 mile trip would yield 23, and I was exactly right. I got exactly 23mpg. Less RPM=less injections per minute. Less speed=less wind to push out of the way. It's simple, and it works. I know some people out their are claiming 26mpg at 70mph or something crazy l…
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a buddy of mine swears straight veggie is perfectly fine to run through the p pump. i had problems with it on my idi with the stanadyne db2 pump , pumps would go bad after a few months. i was just wanting to stir the pot a bit and see what you guys thoughts are.
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i just picked up a low mileage 95 12v 6bt engine at a slavage yard for next to nothing. its missing a few small parts but is pretty much complete. i am missing the belt tensioner, which i found on ebay. im also missing the idler/fan pulley pulley and bracket. will the 24v pulley/bracket be a direct bolt on replacement. the reason i ask is that there are a few on ebay right now and i was hoping to grab one. that or if anybody has one to sell that would be sweet.
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Heres what I got done so far. Bout 3 hours worth. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=98 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=99 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=100 Those damn timing cover bolts were finger tight. I have seen that out of a lot of 12v's so if you ever get in there, lock tite the hell out of those bolts!
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I've got some oil leaks and such and it's built up into grit and grime and I've never had a chance to tear things apart and fix them until now. I have an entire week that I have nothing to do and won't be needing my truck. So I was wondering what the best thing is that will melt all the greasy residue off of everything. Let me know what other tips you have for making it spotless are.
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Using Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) 1. Ensure battery is fully charged. Turn ignition on and note operation of MIL. When ignition is first turned on, MIL should come on and remain on for 3 seconds to verify bulb and circuit operation, and then go off. 2. Attempt to start engine. Turn ignition off. Without starting engine, turn ignition on, off, on, off and on within 5 seconds. Record 2-digit DTCs as displayed by flashing MIL. 3. For example, DTC 24 will be displayed by 2 flashes, short pause, and then 4 more flashes. A short pause will exist between first and second digits on DTC. If more than one DTC is stored, after first DTC is displayed, there …
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I know several people have asked about grid heater times and when it starts... Well here you go... GRID HEATERS Above 59*F ........................ 0 Seconds ............................ No Post Heating 15*F to 59*F ...................... 10 Seconds .......................... Post Heating 0*F to 15*F ........................ 15 Seconds ......................... Post Heating Below 0*F ........................... 30 Seconds ......................... Post Heating Remember block heaters tend to offset the intake air temp so be aware that block heater will do this. Also be aware that there is 2 grid heaters and during the pre-heating both element…
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Here you go gang 12V layout of both sides of the engine... :thumbsup: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68&stc=1&d=1260576366 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69&stc=1&d=1260576366 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70&stc=1&d=1260576366
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Wow! ISX... So far you got my attention that really good and killer right write for the 12V's... I know taz had looked at it and been reading it a bunch. Keep going... I might have to steal this and add it to the static page write ups. Then I might to cut and paste chunks of this for the 24V side too...
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New here, but not new to Cummins engines. I have searched so if I missed something my apologies. Does anyone have data concerning adding 30wt Non-detergent oil vs. 2 cycle oil to diesel fuel? I have read & read about 2 cycle oil in diesel fuel, but not much info on 30wt. I am wondering if 30wt has similiar benifits other than pump lubrication etc... I have always run a quart of 30wt non-detergent at every fill up. Injectors are clean, truck runs great & quiet (223,500 miles...12V NOT stock since 15K :biggrin:). Anyway... I know back in the day 30wt was used as premix, but things have improved... I like the 30wt b/c it's cheap per qt ($1.27) & easy to bu…
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