JoeMcCaz

I've also "never heard" of anyone being denied warranty for using 2 stroke oil, just sharing what I was told by Thoroughbred... I agree its stupid and maybe, for whatever reason, the guy just wanted to tell a tale? Who knows? I've used Hot Shotz Secret EDT, Winter Anti-gel, Diesel Extreme (only as directed) and had to use 911 only once about 2 years back. Forgot to put anti-gel in after fill up and truck sat 4 days in less than 20°, started fine, let warm up and 10 minutes later going down the PA Tpk truck just lost power, slowed to like 10mph. Hobbled home, idling rough, put about 1 pint in, ran rough for a minute or two then all of the sudden just started idling normally, off I went. From then on I keep a quart with the truck. Got me out of a jam.

Terry, not saying bad advice, or not to try 2 cycle oil. I was told by Thoroughbred Diesel not to use 2 cycle oil only because if the VP fails it voids warranty and, not sure how, but was also told they can tell and have had failed VPs returned under warranty which they denied because. Like I said initially not saying bad, or not to use, just relaying what I was told. Check around 1st. I'm sure there's folks that may challenge above, just relaying what I was told. For my 1k and time swapping a VP I'll stick to anti-gel.

Hopefully I'll never need to talk with a trans guy again...

The DTT was built to hold 500 as long as not launched boosted in 4wd. Unfortunately the DTT had seen it's days after I'm guessing after 18 years and also unfortunately DTT is not longer in business. The new trans, built by the guy who built the DTT will hold a bit more than the 525/1,000 I'm making at the wheels, this time I went with billet input shaft, triple-loc torque converter and billet flywheel. I should be good for the rest of it's/my life now.

Hey Terry, you are a fortunate man to have grandchildren that, 1- wear you out and more importantly 2- help keep you young. My only child, daughter turned 30 earlier this month, told me when she married (3 years back) she "never" wants children? Anyhow, that's her decision and you never know... Glad you figured a work around on you state's fuel situation change summer/winter. In my area (N/NE PA) we get #2 year round. My stalling problem began immediately upon installation of refreshed Mach5s (200hp add), I had same injectors since about 09 and never ever had issue. After they sent newly built set, to eliminate possibility of injectors as problem, it still stalled. Then after testing with new, not remaned, cheapo God only knows where they were made - perhaps the moon - RV275S no stalling. After I sent the newly built 5s back and they lowered tha BAR pop no more problems. And since all this took place in warmer weather, knowing we have #2 year round, my stalling issues were not fuel related, definitely injector related. I could have just left the RV275S in but wasn't willing to give up 150hp, got spoiled over the years, you know.

So been a little bit since any update. Got Duster to new place all went well with truck. Got trailer and loaded all boxed items moved to new place, all good with truck. Old house "finally" closed 5/25. Truck has been fine, until...went to visit old Navy buddy we went for a ride and out of nowhere at a stop I'd started out in 2nd, shift into L and trans went to 1st. Didn't do this again for a while, then it would, intermittently. Called Tim, said he gets together occasionally with friends who also build performance diesel transmissions and he explained my intermittent 2nd gear starts. One guy shared a customer had same issue and he (builder) pulled the trans relay in engine compartment and saw green on pins, cleaned fuse panel connections, put new relay in and no more problems. I checked no corrosion, but swapped in one of the spare relays and been driving daily for 3-4 days and no more 2nd starts. Have to call Tim tell him about relay swap results and bust his chops about not sending me new transducer and solenoid yet. Hope I don't have to do anymore updates here, well problem related anyway. Thanks to all who've followed along and offered suggestions and help. Off topic, but imagine if our government could help each other (left/right) instead of conflicting, how great our country could return to... Thanks again

Blue Pine, So sorry for your loss. As you can tell by what these 2nd gens are going for, it was indeed a loss. A bit of a story here but relevant to your fight with the insurance company... In Oct. 95 I bought an F150, XLT, Lariat, std cab, LB, 4X4, auto, 5.0L, green metallic, tan center. It was a low mileage (48k) trade in. Beautiful truck. The dealership was asking 13,500, I walked 3 times, waiting a day or so each time, till they came down to their "if you leave after this don't bother returning" price of 11,250. In June 96 I lost it in a flood, water up to the ignition switch on the column, when I lifted the hood the water line was ½" below the top of the plastic EFI inlet cover, pulled the dipstick out and water came out. Insurance company said 8k and they'd come and remove it that day,I still owed 9 on it and told them it could sit where it was forever before I'd accept that. I told them I wouldn't accept anything less than 12. So, I called to chat with the adjuster every day, we became friendly, telling him the things I'd done that increased value over stock, fiberglass contoured steps painted body color, lighted visor also body color and the list went on. For 2 weeks I'd call daily. Finally he told me he'd call a dealer friend of his and see if the things I did were considered value add or reduced the value. In a nice way I made myself a pest to the point where they just wanted to get done with me. I ended up getting 10,750. I removed the wheels & tires and put $5 junkyards on it before they came to get it. In essence they want to wear you down to the point where you're ready to take whatever they offer. Wear them down, reverse psychology, let them know each thing you've done, like that $1,000+ front bumper. They work "for" you, your continued premium payments pay their salaries. Like buying or selling a used vehicle it's a game of sorts. Tell them a higher number than your willing to accept and settle, after wearing them down, and don't stop until they've offered what you can live with. Hope this helps you, or someone in the future.

Installed M5s popped @ 280BAR yesterday, no more stalling finally "had" my truck back. Yes "HAD". Took for a run with Edge on 1-3, ran great, let egts cool down, comp on 5-5, ran great. Yee has! Late 1130 last night went for leisurely drive up along the Delaware, 45mph cruise on, life is good, right... I hit a few little bumps and seemed like trans went into N. Tapped the go pedal slightly rpms increased slightly put I N tapped go pedal a little, put back in D, hit resume and all seemed well. I'm like WTF was that all about? Caught light on Jersey side at Washington's Crossing put in N, long *** light. Turns green, put in D, right away something seemed odd, no real bump like usual when put in D, ease down on go pedal and seemed like it was in 3rd, no not 2nd, I put shifter in L and it only hit 2nd. F-ing great right? NOT! Remember my DTT trans needed to be done again? Since DTT had closed shop years back I took truck back to guy that built DTT in 04 or 05, Tim Barber TRE Diesel Performance, all new latest technology friction materials, electronics (transducer, solenoids, new wire harnesses etc.) I also upgraded the torque converter to triple loc (stall built 200 lower than usual on the bottom end), billet input shaft and flex plate. Trans has less than 1,000 miles on it. Now that the engine is no longer stalling, or almost stalling and back to normal my new $5,000.00 trans is going crazy!?!? I'd take it right back to Tim, but that's a 6 hour drive... Was on TDR around 1AM this morning search for 2nd gear start out. Hit a recent (mid-April, 2021) thread same title, because I had experienced 2nd gear start off with DTT years ago I expected the usual posts about gov solenoid, and "since you're there do the transducer too", BUT one guy told of his trans shop finding the trans relay in the PDC was bad and new relay did the trick. I'm hoping since I'm sure my trans relay is original that I get lucky...I ain't doing anything till I speak with Tim. Unbelievable right! Especially since my present home goes to closing 5/13 and I need my truck to haul my totally disassembled 73, 340 Duster 2.5 hours to new place with a friend's trailer I'm borrowing this Thursday and was hopeful to get car moved this weekend, then next week have rest of the house contents moved. When I say "totally disassembled" the only thing left in it is the rear glass = no k member, rear springs just the bare shell. HELP! Update, Tuesday 5/4. New transducer, solenoid, filter, check/set bands and new fluid. All good. Electronic parts are what they are I guess. Regardless Tim called this morning to see how I made out. Asked him to call his parts manufacturer and tell them he has an irate customer that just spent 5k for a trans build and in under 1,000 miles their parts failed, customer is asking for new parts, no charge, to be shipped to him. Tim is going to forward email he's sending them and their reply to me. Hopefully, not that it hasn't been fun, this will be my last post on this thread Have a great remainder of your week folks.

Installed M5s popped @ 280BAR yesterday, no more stalling finally "had" my truck back. Yes "HAD". Took for a run with Edge on 1-3, ran great, let egts cool down, comp on 5-5, ran great. Yee has! Late 1130 last night went for leisurely drive up along the Delaware, 45mph cruise on, life is good, right... I hit a few little bumps and seemed like trans went into N. Tapped the go pedal slightly rpms increased slightly put I N tapped go pedal a little, put back in D, hit resume and all seemed well. I'm like WTF was that all about? Caught light on Jersey side at Washington's Crossing put in N, long *** light. Turns green, put in D, right away something seemed odd, no real bump like usual when put in D, ease down on go pedal and seemed like it was in 3rd, no not 2nd, I put shifter in L and it only hit 2nd. F-ing great right? NOT! Remember my DTT trans needed to be done again? Since DTT had closed shop years back I took truck back to guy that built DTT in 04 or 05, Tim Barber TRE Diesel Performance, all new latest technology friction materials, electronics (transducer, solenoids, new wire harnesses etc.) I also upgraded the torque converter to triple loc (stall built 200 lower than usual on the bottom end), billet input shaft and flex plate. Trans has less than 1,000 miles on it. Now that the engine is no longer stalling, or almost stalling and back to normal my new $5,000.00 trans is going crazy!?!? I'd take it right back to Tim, but that's a 6 hour drive... Was on TDR around 1AM this morning search for 2nd gear start out. Hit a recent (mid-April, 2021) thread same title, because I had experienced 2nd gear start off with DTT years ago I expected the usual posts about gov solenoid, and "since you're there do the transducer too", BUT one guy told of his trans shop finding the trans relay in the PDC was bad and new relay did the trick. I'm hoping since I'm sure my trans relay is original that I get lucky...I ain't doing anything till I speak with Tim. Unbelievable right! Especially since my present home goes to closing 5/13 and I need my truck to haul my totally disassembled 73, 340 Duster 2.5 hours to new place with a friend's trailer I'm borrowing this Thursday and was hopeful to get car moved this weekend, then next week have rest of the house contents moved. When I say "totally disassembled" the only thing left in it is the rear glass = no k member, rear springs just the bare shell. HELP!

All good info and appreciate folks sharing (a little hijacking just adds to the thread and good info as well). Now back on topic. Latest is Flux shipped injectors, popped at 280BAR and per tracking number they're slated to arrive "before 7PM" tomorrow=Saturday. Not sure if I'll get to replace them tomorrow, but hope so. Lot's going on with planning to clear out garage, car with no suspension, tool boxes, lighting, air compressor and lines etc. to move to new place... Oh, and the contents of the house too, all before closing on 5/13. Wish me luck

Right

Appreciate the offer. It takes me about the same so I'll go for it. My ribs are still sore from leaning on the rad support, even tho I had like 3 blankets rolled up on top of it.

M73M, thanks. So in your opinion what Flux is proposing makes sense. I do believe their nozzles have more orifices than typical. I'll take them up on their proposal and hope it works. Kinda sucks when you're used to a certain power level for almost 2 decades and then all of a sudden you're down 150hp & 300tq. I got spoiled for sure. Getting a bit tired of changing injectors, but if this works, at my 62 years young, I'll never need to do it again, if it needs injectors at some point later I'll have someone do it for me. Thanks all. Will update.

Here's the reply from Flux. "My apologies Joe, I was suppose to forward this to you from Don last week: We checked the opening pressure on the inj returned from Joe. Basically 295 bar on all 6. I suggest we lower that to 280 across all 6 and send those to him. I believe this is the last step we can take to increase the idle quantity and to help prevent stalling." What they're suggesting is opposite of what you've experienced? Not questioning you for sure. From prior communication with Fulx (after sending chart you provided, with pop off and leak down BAR info) they said due to method they use making tips they can't set BAR to stock? Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Got the RV275, cheapo, god knows what planet they were made on, "TEST" injectors installed Saturday. Ain't saying a word other than the video links below tell the tale. https://youtu.be/E2QJYMGLgxw https://youtu.be/TUeDafx6jSY https://youtu.be/tw6YB0ehHuE Will keep all posted as to reply from Flux.

Thanks M73M, appreciate your continued replies and support. All, I know this thread and those on other forums are long and even I have to think about info I've included and check to see if I left anything out. In this (note on torque converter) I think I failed to mention a few things; 1- after I recieved my Mach 5's from being refreshed by Flux and stalling started immediately after installing, I sent truck to guy that built trans and Flux sent him a newly built set of Mach 5's, which after installing truck still stalled. Builder too though old torque converter was cause, "even though no problem pre-install of refreshed injectors there were no stalling issues. He pulled pan, valve body and R band down to metal. I had my DTT trans (originally built circa 03-ish and about 140k ago) totally rebuilt late Feb early Mar this year. Included in trans build - triple loc converter (builder said he had converter stall set 200 rpm less on the bottom end), billet flex plate & input shaft, all new friction materials, etc. as well as electronics and wiring. Still stalled. 2- new VP. No problem with the 12 year old previous VP but original went after 10 years old with about 130k miles so he installed new Standard Output VP that I bought from Thoroughbred and had shipped to him. All above being done and said, I'm hoping the new (allegedly not remanufactured) RV275s arrive today and as soon as i can R&R the present stalling/almost stalling is no longer present. Hopefully this works, then I go back to Fulx for their analysis... Wish me luck...

M73M voltage low in video was due to grid heater just cycling off, present set of batteries were new in fall 2020 and volt at 12.8 after sitting for days before starting (always replaced both at the same time over the years) after starting and running a bit the grid heaters off the volt gauge returns to normal (typically displays over 14v). Not questioning or challenging you, just sharing information not provided verbally in the video. As for the alternator, I will do the test mentioned in previous replies at some point, crazy time right now as I have a decent amount of work to do moving to new house and getting things at old place ready for closing on May 13th, so at this point I can drive the truck unfortunately as it is, but I have to keep priorities towards the houses as I move thru each step. As for using a live data tool, I don't have one, however trans builder, who is 6 hours away from me, did have one and used it after he installed the newly built injectors (he has Chrysler software - whatever they'd use in dealer shops and keeps current updates maintained) and it still stalled, but didn't have the before intermittent funky start (funky start not mentioned in this thread until now as after install of newly built units it didn't happen anymore. So, funky start was happening maybe every 1 in 5 starts or so, it would "intermittently" start up like just after you've installed a new set of injectors and there was a bit of air in the pump to injector lines - it would "rump, rump, rump" until you hit the go pedal to increase rpms then smooth right out) so after using live data device he reported to me that all sensors where good and to his surprise even when it would stall looking at live data nothing appeared? NOTE: -The "newly built" Mach 5 injectors supplied by Flux were intended to eliminate the previously refreshed Mach 5's I installed as the reason for stalling immediately after installing the refreshed Mach 5's. -I know with long threads things tend to get a bit hazy so let's remember that I bought my original Mach 5's 15 years and 140k or so ago from Flux - at the time known as Formula 1 Injectors - and never had any problems over the years. So at this point right now I've been online for too much time and need to get my focus back to the house stuff. I will add that I had totally forgotten about the whole You Tube account thing and will try to post up link the time I can take away from house stuff. All - Thank you for your efforts to help me resolve the issue and I'm confident at some point it'll get resolved and we'll all (hopefully) know the what's and why's. Here are links to You Tube videos should be clickable... My head is spinning and at least I think it all worked. Hopefully these videos will better describe the situations all of these were from yesterday and the times in the titles. I must apologize for cursing in some of the videos, you can sense the frustration. Enjoy. 1st - 2nd - 3rd - 4th - 5th - 6th - 7th - 8th - 9th -

Yea, stupid indicator marks for sure. ½ way between 500 and 1000 is 750. Now that I think about it, and with you picture that is where it idled...before i sent my Mach 5s for refresh (and Flux sending me newly built ones) mess. Hope the new RV275s (test injectors) make it idle like it should. If so then I'll be talking with Flux. If not I'll be more bald than I am now as I continue scratching my head trying to resolve stalling...

Sorry if I missed the W-T ground wire mod and the PCM protection fuse you mention. Can you PM so as not to clog this thread, unless you think it'll help someone else down the line - the links to the two (W-T & PCM fuse) mods. Thanks for side note on drag and drop I tried and realized the file was in excess of 100 MB was why I couldn't attach. But I've take some shorter videos, will make sure they're less than 100MB and post up, if need be in several posts within this thread of course. Thanks so much for your help thru this mess Going to attach some videos over the next several posts - assuming you can drag drop multiples as long as total is under 100MB - here goes... Appears to have worked this should be videos posted 1 of 4 1st below @ 7:53 AM, 2nd below @ 7.57, last below @ 759. 753 AM idle fluctuate tach.mp4 757 AM idle fluctuate exhaust.mp4 759 AM cold rpm change into gear.mp4 2 of 4 NOT!!! NOTE: I tried this immediately after above (1 of 4) but for some reason first 2 of 3 videos failed to load not sure why as they all totaled under 100MB? I closed site and now opening to try same (sequential time wise) 3 video that failed prior. Here goes... Well that didn't work out either Message that came up. Sorry, an unknown server error occurred when uploading this file. (Error code: You can only upload a total of 21.84 MB.) Going to have to try to trim the 23.8mb file down. Interestingly in videos within post 1 of 4 (above) the first file size is like 29.1 and it took just fine???? Will have to jump off a bit and come back later today or tonight, got outside work to get house ready for closing to do. You know "priorities of what must be done" take precedence over those "you want to get done". A little thing called life. Hope I can figure out and get back later

Well unfortunately I can't upload a video (guess it's too big?) so I'll have to explain, gads... Over the past few days, since I stupid misread a post on another site and disconnected the batteries with the truck running and it stalled BTW now I know 2 things 1-don't disconnect the batteries with the truck running and 2-don't disconnect the batteries with the truck running... Since the alternator was out, I took it to have it bench test and was ok, I decided to pull the harness from the alt side to the vp side and inspect. I methodically removed the tape and spring loom on wire (mess) harness bit by bit, inspecting wires then re-taping each section as I went. All was good. Since I had wires revealed I decided to do the wrap in foil, wrap in insulating tape and then regular e-tape over the large lead from the alt I've heard about for years - even though I've had the DTT noise suppressor thing from the time the original (1st built) trans was done - you know "just because I was there". Oh, decided to do the same (foil, insulation tape, regular e-tape) to the 2 wires from the APPS to as far down the harness as I was willing to go. I was concerned that I screwed the ECM or PCM or both up with the disconnect batteries while running thing and wanted to make sure at least the wiring was good, before I reinstalled the alt. Which everything looked to be sold, no fried wires, insulation solid etc. Reinstalled the alt, connected the batteries and went for it = this would have been better if I was able to load a video here... Turned key to on, transfer pump normal psi, wait to start out, turn key and she fired right up "Thank God" apparently I didn't fry anything. A bit colder today so after grid heater went off I put in R to see if it would stall, didn't stall but (as been the whole thing since installing refreshed injectors etc., etc. had been if it didn't stall) the idle abruptly dropped and then just as abruptly rose and settled in. BTW I noticed the idle is actually closer to 800 than I originally stated at 850. But it is still fluctuating rpms about 5-10 up and down while idling be it in or out of gear. Awaiting the new "test" injectors from Dale's to arrive and then we should be able to tell if the stall/almost stall deal is or isn't related to the Flux injectors... Stay tuned...

I was surprised at the cost and free delivery too. Just hope they are good for testing to see if truck still stalls. At this point, and I hate to say this as I've always tried to buy the best & made in America, "I don't give a rat's anal orifice if they were made on the moon out of the rat's teeth as long as they work for testing"

Got tire of all the...stuff??? Ordered a "new" set of RV275's from Dale's Super Store (https://dalessuperstore.com/i-23916207-5-9-cummins-rv275hp-injector-set-432193635-1998-5-2002-dodge-cummins-5-9l.html), confirmed new not reman, they gave me a promo code for $10 off, free shipping, 3 day delivery, and no core to return, $305.00 to my door. We'll see what this yields, hopefully no stall and the idle at wherever it is supposed to be. I'm believing Mopar1973man's reply WTE "All ISB engines idle at 800 +/- 10 rpms. Just want to be able to drive without stalling at this point. Still awaiting reply from Flux on difference in the nozzles they build versus stock. Keep your fingers and toes crossed ladies and gents... More to come...

At this point I'm asking friend (previously mentioned having engine built but not yet run) that got RV275's if he still has OE injectors to give them a try. If not I'm thinking about acquiring a set of stock or RV275's just to test against Mach 5's. Just sent email to Flux: Please thank Don for his reply. I seem to recall a difference from Don's nozzles compared to OEM, but I could be confused? Without getting too technical what are the differences relative to Fulx's nozzle design as compared to OEM; more holes, different material or? Just trying to understand. Thanks And the plot thickens.... So worn out over this....

Reply from Flux to my pop-off psi question... Thoughts... From Don We use an opening (pop) pressure of 285 to 290 bar. The nozzle is designed for this. Actually the used ones drop to the 260 and below range often. This lower pressure has never been an issue for us, but the higher pressure settings have. Anything over about 305 has caused a few trucks to run rough at idle.

Appreciate you sharing the information dripley.