joecool911

Napa had the fittings and filter. But nobody in town had the ball valves in stock. Home depoe will have them and at a better price too.

Your front calipers are doing what my rears were doing before I rebuilt mine. I suppose re-man calipers could be not operating properly. But you were so close to rebuilding your own. Just making sure pistons fall into the bores on their own weight without the seal in the bore The time to flush the brakes was before new or rebuilt calipers were installed.

I've got the Vulcan big line hoses. Should I order some fittings from them or can I get something off the shelf? 1/2 barb x male pipe thread.

Most of the ball valves are kinda hard to move. Don't see a problem with them opening on their own.

I'll get more info on the motor type when I see him next.

Yeah, I was close to an O'Riely's so went there. He looked at me cross eyed when I asked for 1/2".

I'll have to go to a more industrial parts house. 3/8" was as big as one auto parts had. Don't want to introduce a restriction.

I thought most all of the old metal fuel filters that were used with an engine actuated mechanical fuel pump were suction filters?

Have a friend who works on a dredge on the Columbia river. Says the motor for the dredge pump runs a 3' steel line. Says the injectors are 3' long. He's going to get me one of the throw aways. They are now doing major retrofitting. I'll try to get more info on the motor they are comin out of.

100 miles today and brake calipers were cold when I got home. So the rebuild was a success and no more dragging. What I learned was that it's pretty easy to do and there is no reason to omit regular caliper rebuilding. For the cost of pads and rotors, $4 a caliper for parts is cheap and smart as it will improve reliability. Fronts next. Probably no write up or comments as it would be more of the same old broken record.

I've noticed that since I installed a Raptor 100 and have 14+ psi consistently, after the first filter change the filter is going a lot longer than it used to. I bet that before the new pump I was returning little or no fuel to the tank. Pressure was too low. I've noticed that the first stock fuel filter change was very black. Now I can go 10,000 miles and the filter is still white. I think that first filter scrubbed all of the built up junk out of the system. I am still getting some crud on the inlet filter of the raptor. My intention is to install a simple metal inline filter on the suction side Of the fuel pump. I am thinking of installing a couple of isolation ball valves on both ends of the filter to make changing the filter easy and not loosing much fuel or introducing much air into the fuel line. I think this should be a cheap way to keep the raptor happy and keep the inlet screen clear of debris. With the isolation valves changing the in line filter should take 5 minutes and be cheap.

Ok, all done. Lubed slider pins really well. Everything would have gone great with the install of the calipers, except for the banjo washers I lost that to on the underside of the brake line connection to the caliper. Had to run and get 2 new ones so I got 4 new ones. Will not seal without the inside washers which I did not see at any point of the removal or rebuild of the calipers. But if you look at the sealing surfaces of the brake line, it is recessed. So no way for them to seal without those banjo washers. Live n learn. The power bleeder is awesome! Pumped it up to 10psi. Not sure what it should be, but the instructions said to not exceed 20psi and consult your repair manual. Could find no specs, but 10 worked great. If you had 4 hunks of clear tubing, one for each wheel it would be even faster. Just crack, check pressure in bleeder, tip tubing so that the natural curve is up and wait for clear fluid without bubbles. Tighten bleeder screw and move to the next. Repeat procedure. Awesome! Took about 10 minutes to do all 4 calipers without an assistant. Only thing remains is what to clean the power bleeder with. Not supposed to store the fluid in it. Wondering about acetone? I'd highly recommend the Motive power bleeder to anyone. I got the single vehicle application. Fits most Mopar and jeep products. You can order new caps for other vehicles separately or order the whole Mary Ann as a kit. We've got 3 Mopar rigs, so thTs all I really need for now. If a friend wants his brakes done, I'll have him order his own reservoir cap/adapter.

Ok. The rebuild went well. Hardest part is getting the dust boot to seat. I used a short piece of 2" PVC pipe schedule 40. Electrical conduit in 2" would work also. Then set a 1x2 across the pvc and another 1x2 set vertically. This enabled me to pound the dust boot into the groove and seat it. I don't think you could get it in with a punch or something. When you hit the high side the low side pops out. The pistons were really tight in the bores. Got them to drop under their own weight as directed. There really is nt much to go wrong with these calipers. This should be able to be repeated as many times as needed. Thanks guys. Going to slap them on tomorrow. Fortunately the recently new pads didn't take too much punishment due to dragging.

I have it and am about to use it for the first time. I'll let you know in a little bit how I like it. A bleeder tube came with the power bleeder. So I am good there. Although I just pulled the brake line off the caliper to bleed. Fluid in master cylinder very dark. Here we go!!!

Should we be looking at Audi's too?

Excellent!

I gotta get some clear tubing to bleed brakes. Anyone know the size?

Thanks. Makes sense. Just didn't think of it.

I bet my calipers are original. 180,000 miles. Will let you guys know how it comes out. Starting on it soon here. Gives me a chance to us my Motive power brake bleeder. I'll flush the back brakes too.

Bunch of namby pambies. Lol. I understand, but they are like new. The spare still had the sticker on the tread. Already switched that one over to my utility trailer. I always carry a spare, so might as well get my monies worth.

Come to think of it, problem could have existed when I toasted my last pads and rotors. But I had no idea as to its history. So I'm thinking that the calipers are not releasing and prematurely wearing the pads. Left side was a lot hotter, appears that the new pads are more worn and that's the side that ate the rotor down to about 1/8" of metal left before it got into the cooling recesses of the rotor.

Thanks Tom. That makes sense and easy to do. Which side gets bled first? I've heard that the isolation valve will keep me from needing to bleed the front if I'm only working on the rear.

Yeah, I'll tear them off tomorrow and try to rebuild. I already have the seals, boots and slide pin boots. Too bad I wore out a set if pads and kinda scored the new rotors. Live and learn.

I find it strange that both of my rear calipers are dragging. I smelled brakes and stopped to check them out. Both rear hot. Parking brake not on. Recently replaced pads and rotors. Sounds like caliper problems, but both at the same time? Got home but the calipers were so hot that they'ed sizzle when you spit on them. Smoking. More left than right but both hot and dragging. Would this be calipers of portioner valve?

I have very large hands. Many xl gloves won't go on my hands.