Caleb Hardy

👍🏻Thank you!

👍🏻 Good deal! I’d imagine I would see immediate results so no need to run it for a long period of time, right?

That’s right. I was talking with my uncle about dropping the transmission and torque converter. He was wondering if it would cause any stress on the crank when it was running with no counter weight (torque converter/clutch) since it will still have the dampener on? Also if the flex plate would be ok not being backed by the torque converter? He or myself have never done this and didn’t want to run into a surprise. And maybe we are over thinking it.

That is how I read it as well. But I failed 4 years of English in high school hahaha

Update 9/22/22. I had the injectors and injection pump tested. They reported the injection pump failed 4 out 7 fuel capacity test(?????). The injectors were pop tested and ranged from 270-290BAR. I had them rebuild the injection pump and set the injectors back to 320BAR. After install same issues as before. Still idles at 750rpm, engine load and EGT’s still high. I’m at a loss.

My truck idles at 750rpm as well. Have you had any luck figuring out why it does not idle at 800rpm?

The reason I went 4.10’s is there is a large difference between dodge transmission ratios and Allison. 4.10’s and tires that small get me closest to the optimal RPM range. If I had the choice 4.39 gears would have been perfect. The transmission ratio is .61 on the Allison and in dodges there is a range of .69-.74. (Or round about) so for every .61 engine rpm your output shaft rotated 1. After calculating an average of the stock transmissions and ratios that gear set gets me the closest. And after doing all that and drinking the kool-aid of optimal rpm range I should have left them alone. (3.55) truck was quieter and egts +-75. Lots of money for little gain. I kept all the gears so they might just go back in the truck. Hahahaha. So with all that said I think that’s when I really started looking at the engine load.

👍🏻 I believe the gasket I bought had them separated…..I can see why you remove at that point much easier to get the pan out…..that was my first one hahahahaha I wish I could have read this before I did mine…..damn near had the engine all the way out hahaha

I was able to remove my pan without removing the pick up. I was wondering if there was something I should have replaced while it was removed. Thanks!

I tried something on the way to the hotel today. I maxed out timing on every slider and went all the way to 8.0 on light throttle advanced timing. I kept the rpms under 1700 on the highway. I did not notice any bucking or change in the way the engine sounded at level 0 or level 2 on the quad. On flat ground my oil temperature was 140-150 degrees. I do notice when timing retards pulling a slight hill my oil temperature goes up. I don’t know if that is normal, sounds right though. I’m hoping this might shed some light in the direction I need to go. I’m not to sure what impact it did on engine load difference at cruising speed. Truck does not have head studs and a little hesitant at higher rpms with such high timing. (And I might have that backwards and did more harm) Thoughts on what to try next

Is removing the pick up necessary? Or did you do it so you didn’t have to lift the engine as high? I hope it was just for clearance. I did mine last year and would not be looking forward to doing it again if it’s necessary. Hahahaha

I’m in Bakersfield (when I’m home hahaha) my email address is calebhardywelding@me.com This usually works for me.

So am I!!! Hahaha I had to save the tune as a file on my iPhone. Once it saved as a file go to your files when you pull it up it should have a box with an arrow towards the top in the one of the upper corners. Select that and if you have quad on your phone it should pop up once you hit the box arrow looking button. Select quadzilla and it should pull it up.

Dang…..I guess I’ll pull the pump and injectors to have them tested.

Anyway of adjusting duration with the quadzilla? Or just pull the pump and injectors and have them test everything?

It’s on my I pad that does not have a service plan on it. Once I get to the hotel I will post them. Or if one of the guys at work can figure something out I’ll do it sooner. Got it figured out! Hahaha iQuad-tune.json

👍🏻Thank you!!!!! Hahaha I’m a little slow hahahahaha

What I’m not understanding is that the engine load doesn’t change when cruising when timing is adjusted. Even if I run the quad at 0 engine load is the same (25-30). No cetane boosters. In warmer weather is cetane higher or lower? Could it be something in the injection pump? Thinking it’s calibrated one way but it’s actually the other way? If that even makes sense.

4.10 gears 245/75r16 tires and Allison 68MPH 6th gear- 1950 RPM +- 5th gear- 2250 RPM +- EGT’s still 750-850 at that speed in 6th gear. Down shift to 5th gear difference of 30+- degrees difference. Same as before with 3.55 when I kept it from going into 6th gear. (In my situation) I believe the Allison 2000 has ratio closer to what you wanting. Down side is that they have straight cut gears which are very noisy.(second hand information) I apologize for not knowing how to add the comments in relation to what I had just wrote.

I don’t quite understand. 🤦🏻‍♂️

👍🏻Thank you!! I didn’t realize that the ratios between 5spd and 6spd were so close.

I’m wondering with higher pop pressure I can afford to go even more with light throttle timing as long as the oil temp stays where it should. The transmission locks the TC in 2nd gear and stays locked through 6th. And haven’t had any bucking issues. I’ll try adding a little at a time and see what happens. Thank you!

I never did understand how tire size would effect the final drive ratio. Does it matter if it is a 30” or 60” tire? 3.55:1 means the drive line turns 3.55 times for one complete axle rotation right? So no matter what size tire the drive line spins “x” amount and the axle spins “x” amount. Tire should not affect final ratio. It does change the effective ratio. Meaning if that truck came from the factory with 265/75R16 and 3.55:1 gears and you changed your tire size your truck now performs like it came from the factory with the different gear ratio (effective ratio). It does not change a gear ratio just the effective ratio. A true final ratio would be, depending on what gear your in, let’s just say 6th gear and the transmission ratio in 6th gear is .71 and your running 3.55:1 gears your final drive would be 2.5205:1. Meaning your engine rotates 2.5205 times and your axle rotates 1. No matter how big the tire is it will still rotate 1 time. Unless ratio’s work different on trucks.

Fuel pressure is 15-18psi. Fuel filters (CAT 175-2949 CAT 1R-0750) are changed every 5k during truck service. Lift pump is a fuel boss (mechanical). The fuel tank sending unit was recently removed and cleaned when I replaced the stock 35 gallon tank with a 60 gallon. I have thought about putting the stock injectors in just to see if it is the injectors causing the issue but it is quite a bit of work just to see. Same with idea of pulling out the transmission. (Working out of town, home 1.5 days week, little family time hahaha) I just know I threw a lot of money at this truck trying to get my EGT’s in the ballpark to what other guys are reporting. The one I thought would be the cure all turned out to be the biggest costly mistake with no gain, re gearing. But you live and learn. Makes me wonder about engine load percentages and how the ecm calculates it. Do you have bigger than stock tires? Thanks for chiming in!

So given your higher engine load percentages at cruising speed your EGT’s I’m assuming are still low (500-650). If it is I’m going down a rabbit hole that leads to nowhere. I even went overboard with cruise timing 23* with oil temp varying between 150-165 degrees. I guess the “high engine load” I think I have is not the cause of the elevated EGT’s. Forgot to mention I don’t think it matters after reading about EGT’s towing I have around 2000lbs-2400lbs in the bed of the truck. (Welding equipment) but it might.