jmerritt

most companys i done business with normaly includes some kind of instruction/assembly manual. when i got this i was disapointed there was no instruction sheet how to install this or something to go by! i know when i bought a intake manifold for my 99 ram 1500 it came with a instruction manual. this was a first for me looked more like a supply parts kit to me. customer service is poor,no email to tell you they recived your order or payment(other than what paypal sends you) took him little over a week just to ship it out. never did get a tracking number from him. - - - Updated - - - this is how i got it right out of the box!

email i got back from him. i dont quite understand what it all means??? email: Please use these instructions: Relay kit component identification: -Wire "bracelet": Fuseholder. Simply snip the wire to give two wire ends (one from each side of the actual fuse receptacle). -Cubical devices with metal pins: Relays. There are three of them. One controls the low beam filaments on the outboard 9007 bulbs, left and right. One controls the high beam filaments on the outboard 9007 bulbs. One controls the high beam filaments on the inboard 9004 bulbs. Each relay has terminals 30 (feed power in), 85 (trigger -), 86 (trigger +), and there are two 87 terminals. The 87 terminals are the feed power out to the lamps, so one 87 feeds the left and one 87 feeds the right. The 30 terminal gets connected, via a fuse, to battery + or alternator output+. The 85 gets connected to the (-) wire from the truck's original headlamp socket. The 86 gets connected to the applicable (+) wire from the truck's original headlamp socket. So your low beam relay gets low beam (+) to 86 and common (-) to 85. One of your high beam relays gets high beam (+) to 86 and common (-) to 85. You run short jumper wires from 85 and 86 on the one high beam relay to 85 and 86 on the other high beam relay. -Metal "chain" : String of terminals for wire ends. Simply twist/bend each terminal off the chain as you need to use it. Install terminals on the ends of all wires that will go to the relays. -Black "hollow" plastic devices with mounting tabs: Relay holder/terminal blocks. After installing the terminals on the wire ends, push each wire end into its correct relay holder slot from below. It will snap lock into place. Then the relay can simply be plugged onto the relay holder. -"9004CM" terminals packaged with hollow plastic shells (when assembled, these parts look like the back end of a bulb): male plugs and terminals. Crimp or crimp/solder the terminals onto the ends of your relay trigger wires, max 14 gauge, push the wires terminal-first into the plastic shells, where they'll snap-lock in place, and then snap the shells onto the vehicle's existing headlamp sockets. This gives you individual wires to work with, to trigger your relays, without cutting off the vehicle's original headlamp sockets. If your kit contains two of these, it is so that one can be used for low beam and common, and the other can be used for high beam and common. -"9004CF" terminals packaged with ceramic blocks (when assembled, these look like the vehicle's factory headlamp sockets): New headlamp sockets. Install terminals same as with male plugs -- max 12ga wire on these -- and snap 'em onto the bulbs. General relay installation instructions and diagrams are at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html Your new lamps use a 9007 for high/low beam, in the outboard position. They use a 9004 for high beam only, in the inboard position. The low beam filament of the inboard 9004 is not used. Both the 9004 and 9007 bulbs take the same socket, but they must be wired up differently. On the 9004, as you look at the base of the bulb with the glass pointing away from you and the flat part of the connector at the top, the pins are: Lower left: Common/ground Upper middle: Low beam feed (not used in new lamps) Lower right: High beam feed On the 9007, as you look at the base of the bulb with the glass pointing away from you and the flat part of the connector at the top, the pins are: Lower left: Low beam feed Upper middle: Common ground Lower right: High beam feed There is only one proper operational setup for these lamps, and that is as follows- Low beam mode: Low beam filament of outboard 9007 bulb on, all other filaments off. High beam mode: High beam filament of outboard 9007 and high beam filament of inboard 9004 on, all other filaments off. The low beam filament of the inboard 9004 is not used -- these lamps do not have optics to focus the light from it. In NO case are the low beam and high beam filaments on together! Two-filament headlight bulbs are pressurized to about 10 atmospheres COLD. They are not designed to handle the heat (or the current on the common filament support lead) of running both filaments at the same time for more than very brief periods during beam changeover or headlight flashing. Doing so carries the very real risk of the bulb grenading inside the headlamp, destroying it. Some people who think they're clever wire it up this way anyhow, and the "Brite Box" people have made a business out of this "clever" (not) modification.

i just got my kit today from daniel stern. kit rik-ram. has anyone installed this kit on there truck yet? i need some help with it. here is the link he emailed me how to in stall it-http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html i looked at the link on how to install it. but in the diagram it shows 2 relays??????????? but in the kit i got it has 3 fuses and 3 relays???????????? where does the 3rd relay and fuse go???????????? i did not get any kind of instruction sheet how to install this for this type of truck?(Dodge ram)

got my package from him today. i got the $79 kit because i was low on money at the time. he also has option for $161 all made up as well. only problem my kit did not have any instructions how to install it. in his email he sent me a link how to install it. his diagram shows 2 relays. but the kit i got has 3 relays? so now i have to figure out how to install his kit? - - - Updated - - - i just got my kit today from daniel stern. kit rik-ram. has anyone installed this kit on there truck yet? i need some help with it. here is the link he emailed me how to in stall it-http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html i looked at the link on how to install it. but in the diagram it shows to relays??????????? but in the kit i got it has 3 fuses and 3 relays???????????? where does the 3rd relay and fuse go???????????? i did not get any kind of instruction sheet how to install this for this type of truck?(Dodge ram)

your welcom. thats what i'm working on with him right now. - - - Updated - - - just paid for my order with him through paypal. so will see how it go's

here is the reply i got. Hi, there. Thanks for your persistence -- either your first mail didn't reach me, or I overlooked it. Didn't mean to seem as though ignoring you! Ordering info follows technical info: Put in a set of the '99-'01 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport headlamps, which are *much* better than the lamps all non-Sport '94-'02 style Rams got. The Sport lamps use two bulbs per side (a 9007 high/low and a 9004 high-only) and produce much more effective, longer and wider, better focused beam patterns. They physically fit right in, but require some wiring adaptation, which is just as well since the factory wiring tends to starve the bulbs. You need: -a set (left and right) of the '99-'01 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport headlamps. Get the real ones from the dealer or www.chryslerpartsdirect.com , not the Taiwanese knockoffs from eBay or elsewhere on the internet; the low price of the aftermarket units is attractive, of course, but despite "OEM quality" and "DOT/SAE approved" claims, they are junk (more info below). Factory part numbers are as follows: Headlamp, left: 55077 025AC Headlamp, right: 55077 024AC Park/turn lamp, left: 55077 033AC Park/turn lamp, right: 55077 032AC The original park/turn lamps can be used with the new headlamps; I've listed the Sport type park/turn units because their clear-lens design matches that of the Sport headlamps. Also note that the above numbers may from time to time be updated or superseded as noted when you do a part number search on chryslerpartsdirect.com or realmopar.com - go ahead and buy whatever the latest part number is. -A Dodge Ram conversion wiring and relay installation package RIK-RAM, $79 here. The installation package includes all necessary plugs, sockets, terminals, fused fuseholders, relays, relay brackets, terminal blocks, etc. -- everything except actual wire -- to install the new headlamps _and_ eliminate the voltage drop present in the factory-type wiring. You supply your own wire and use the parts from the kit to build up your own wiring harness. Specific instructions are provided, and the concept is explained at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html .Parts are specially made premium-grade items (e.g. ceramic headlamp sockets) that accept large-gauge wire; this is not the "consumer grade" junk you can find at the parts store. Or, I can have my harness builder custom build you a ready-to-install harness assembly using the same components. Cost for this option is $161.44 (including parts and labour - you pick _either_ the relay kit _or_ the custom-built harness. It costs more than the chintzy and unreliable $30 to $50 Chinese prefab harnesses because it is not a Chinese prefab harness). Either way, the in-cab switches continue working normally, and you will not need to cut or otherwise disturb any of the vehicle's original wires. And either method will work fine on a dual-battery Ram. -A set (two 9007 and two 9004) of ultra high efficacy bulbs. The best 9007 bulbs presently on the market are the Philips Xtreme Power items: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00480N16S/ or the GE Night Hawk Platinums: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UX7I9G The best 9004 bulbs presently on the market are the GE Night Hawk Platnium 9004NHP: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UX7I9G Do not buy blue or "extra white" bulbs (Silver Star, Crystal Vision, TruView, Hoen, PIAA, etc.); despite the heavy advertising push and claims of "brighter and whiter" light, they actually produce _less_ light due to the blue glass they use. More info on original vs. aftermarket lamps: All of the aftermarket lamps, whether they're original-looking or restyled, are trash. The low price is attractive, but the quality, performance, and durability are all substantially and dangerously inferior to the genuine items. This goes for all the many brands of aftermarket lamp—TYC, Genera, Depo, DJAuto, ScanTech, and many other brands (and unbrands) of original-looking and restyled lamps, not to mention the newest wave of trash coming in from China under names like Helix and Sonar (projector headlamp conversions, clear-lens conversions, angel eyes, LED lines, etc...every bit of it dangerously badly made). There is no optical engineering behind any of these; they are headlamp-shaped toys made from physical copies of the originals, which is not even close to adequate. One might as well make a mould of your eyeglasses lenses and expect to be able to cast new working eyeglass lenses from the mould. The level of shape precision required to accurately focus the beam can only be achieved with optical engineering _from scratch_. Copies don't even begin to get in the ballpark. Light distribution is way, way out of line with what it should be. Usually the DOT and/or ECE safety approval or certification marks are fraudulent or counterfeit. "Perfect OE fit and performance" is often promised in the ads for the copycat lamps. This is an out-and-out lie. Take a look at http://www.capacertified.org/press/CAPALighting3.pdf , which is the report on a large government-sponsored test of OE vs. TYC and Depo versions of simple, cheap American-vehicle headlamps. Even though TYC is widely regarded as the least-awful of a pathetic bunch, still a complete failure by the TYC & Depo units (see page 21 and 30 if you don't have time to read the whole report). There is only one proper operational setup for the Sport lamps, and that is as follows: Low beam mode: Low beam filament of outboard 9007 bulb on, all other filaments off. High beam mode: High beam filament of outboard 9007 and high beam filament of inboard 9004 on, all other filaments off. The low beam filament of the inboard 9004 is not used -- these lamps do not have optics to focus the light from it. In NO case are the low beam and high beam filaments on together! Two-filament headlight bulbs are pressurized to about 10 atmospheres COLD. They are not designed to handle the heat (or the current on the common filament support lead) of running both filaments at the same time for more than very brief periods during beam changeover or headlight flashing. Doing so carries the very real risk of the bulb grenading inside the headlamp, destroying it (and holding the beam selector switch to run both at the same time will cook your wiring and switches). Some people who think they're clever wire it up this way anyhow, and the "Brite Box" people have made a business out of this "clever" (not) modification. Daytime running lights: If yours is a Canadian-spec truck (either by original manufacture or by private importation), or you're not in Canada but have had the Daytime Running Light function enabled, you will need to rework the daytime running lamps. The stock DRL configuration runs the high beam circuit at reduced duty cycle. This is not compatible with any kind of relay installation. http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html#Dodge has info. Once you have installed the new headlamps, you need to re-enable the DRLs. Daytime running lights do significantly reduce your risk of being in a crash during the daytime, and are required on all '90 and newer vehicles in Canada. There are many ways to implement them, each with various drawbacks and benefits. If you want (or need) to have (or keep, after you install headlamp relays) a daytime running light function on your vehicle, the best (most beneficial, least detrimental) implementation is the steady-burning operation of the front directional signals. They produce a light distribution with a wide view angle, are generally well located for DRL service at the outboard edges of the front of the vehicle, consume considerably less power than any headlamp-based DRL implementation, use light sources of generally much longer life than any headlamp bulb, do not encourage improper nighttime use of lights, and do not require additional lighting devices to be added. Most recent Cadillacs, Chevrolet/GMC large vans and minivans, Corvettes since 1997 in the US and since 1990 in Canada, some Toyota and Lexus models, certain new Lincolns and Chryslers and assorted other vehicles use this implementation. It is steady-lit operation of the bright amber turn signals (except when they are flashing to signal a turn), not operation of the dim parking lamps; parking lights are not bright enough and don't have the right view angles to serve the daytime running light function. Turn signal DRLs comply with US and Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standards #108 and are approved in all states, provinces, and territories. You can easily enable this functionality in your vehicle using a DRL-1 module ($42); see http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/DRL/DRL1.html for instructions and http://www.allpar.com/fix/electrical/DRLs.html for an example installation. HOW TO ORDER: Orders may be sent via e-mail to: dastern@torque.net You may also voicemail or fax your order toll-free on 1-866-861-8668. Please note this is a recorded orderline only. If you wish to speak to me in person, please use 303-835-1300. PLEASE INDICATE: The quantity of each item you wish The address to which you want the items shipped, if it differs from the billing address All items are warehoused in the USA. Please state the type of shipping you wish -- DHL, FedEx, or UPS ground shipping is standard on shipments within the US; all other service levels are available on request. Shipments to Canada go via Postal EMS unless otherwise specified. If you have an account with one of the carriers I use, I'll be happy to ship on your account; just provide the details with your order. Please also state whether the delivery driver has permission to leave the parcel at your doorstep if you are not available to accept and sign for it in person. CREDIT CARDS: I accept Visa and Mastercard. Orders are processed securely and customer card info is not retained after processing your order. The following information is required in order to process a credit card order: Card type Card number Expiry date CVV code (last group of 3 or 4 digits on back of card) Your name as it appears on the card Billing address Phone number PAYPAL: I accept PayPal. If this is how you wish to pay, please send your shopping list and I will send you a PayPal invoice from which to pay. Please _do not attempt_ to pay by PayPal until you have received a PayPal invoice for your order. I look forward to hearing from you. Highest Regards, Daniel Stern

i emailed him last night and got a reply from him last night as well.

has anyone use this company before? http://www.danielsternlighting.com i'm thinking of useing this one.

i made my own wiring harness from the diagram in this tech artical. i would think when you dimm down 2 bulbs are spose to go off? i had a suvlights wiring harness on a truck i used to have and it was a big difference. this truck is not even close as bright as that one was. all i know is something is not quite right. i made this wiring harness from this post. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3311-The-moment-you-ve-all-been-waiting-for-quot-SPORT-QUAD-HEADLIGHT-CONVERSION-quot

ok i got both headlight wiring harness on the truck. it all dims ok. but one question it just might be me. but to me looks like when you hit the dimmer switch for high beem. the headlights just blink?? it looks the same as low beem other then high beem is slightly brighter?? and its in the same spot on the road as the low beem? i do have new sport headlights on the truck as well?? shouldnt the high beem when its on be out further on the road then the low beem?? am i missing somthing????????????? Thanks

i have factory fog lights on mine with silverstars in them. they are not to bad. but yes the fog lights are nice to have when you need them. also works pretty good as a back up. about 6 mothes ago i was comming home from deluth,mn pulling a trailer with a load on it at night. when all of sudden my headlights went out on me. thank god i had the fog lights as a back up. it sucked driving with just the foglights but it was better then nothing. turned out it was the headlight switch that went bad on me. the truck now has a newish headlight switch and turn signal switch.

i had there headlight wiring harness conversion on 2000 ram before i went through bankrupcy back in 2009-2010. now i got another truck. i went to there website to order another one. and there website seems to be down?? been checking back for few monthes and still no change. please forgive if this is not the right spot to post but not sure where to post it. whats the deal with www.suvlights.com ???? also anyone have a wiring harness from suv lights that i could buy used????

ok i got both headlight wiring harness on the truck now. it all dims ok now. but one question it just might be me.but to me looks like when you hit the dimmer switch for high beem. the headlights just blink?? it looks the same as low beem other then high beem is slightly brighter?? and its in the same spot on the road as the low beem? i do have new sport headlights on the truck as well?? shouldnt the high beem when its on be out further on the road then the low beem?? am i missing somthing?????????????

got mine completly done. other then maybe adjusting the headlight lens as they are new. can't tell where the low and high beem pattern spose to be? they look same too me just blinks. other that high beem is little brighter?i have another question if one wanted one set of bulbs for the low(9004) and the other one for high beem(9007)another words so there not on at the same time. like the suv lights were since you can't buy them anymore. how would one modify the wiring harness??

got the driver side done then ran out of time. so will finish the passenger side tomarrow. just the one side is much better the the standard headlights. and wile i was at it i done the fog light mod as well.

nevermind got it figured out. 2 wires were backwards. fixed now.

yes i did use the pdf diagram. i must of misread one of the wires somwhere so i will go check and do what you told me to check. just small minor problem still pretty good for someone like me that done it for first time. i will say with just with one harness in the light output is much better then the factory lighting was. - - - Updated - - - ok i just came in from outside. looks like that is what i did i got the yellow and the green wire reversed instead of the way its spose to be on the wiring diagram. thaks for the help rogan.

ok i did this thead the way it said to do it. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3311-The-moment-you-ve-all-been-waiting-for-quot-SPORT-QUAD-HEADLIGHT-CONVERSION-quot i got the driver side done and went to test it on my 99 ram 1500 4x4. i was told on another fourm the 1500 and 2500 lighting conversion was the same. anyway i ran into a small problem. the harness works ok. only small problem is the dimming switch is backwards. when the blue high beem indacator is on the dash its on low beem. and when the high beem indactor is off its on high beem. can someone tell me what i did wrong and how i can fix it?

question? i got the driver side harness done. so i went and plugged it in to test it. it dimms up and down ok. but only problem is it is backwards of what it is spose to be? basicly when the blue high beem indecator is on in the dash its on low beem. and when the indecator is off its on high beem? what do i need to check?

yes you need to order 2 male cp9004cm connectors. one for each side. as for the relays be advised. you can use those relays in the parts list. only place i found them was amazon. but fair warnning they are expensive they are $40 each! and you need 4 of them witch comes out to $160 + shipping. and thats just for the relays nothing else! here is the link for the relays i used and are only $8 each. and were about $32 instead. http://www.rallylights.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=hl87118

well i got the driver side done so far other then putting on wire loom conduit. but now i have to order another male connector since i busted one of the pins. my fault never done one before. but by the second one had it figured out.so now have to wait for the second male connector to come. but i'm getting there. not as hard as i thought it would be. i hate automotive wiring lol.

thanks rogan i did not know there was a differance between a spdt and spst relay. i learned somthing. i think i will go that route to make things easyer. as my wiring skills are limited. looks pretty simple enough just the relays were little confusing to me till you explained it. thanks for the help.

don't think i understand for this dummy. me being the dummy. still waiting for the sockets to show up from rallylights.com. been week and a half so far. they have not shipped it out no tracking number????? may call them to see whats up. can you make a wiring diagram for these relays? otherwise may just buy those other relays i'm not good with wiring. other option pay you to make up a wiring harness for me???? - - - Updated - - - how about this one then? http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=948

that is why i have not bought that one. i did find a 30 amp duel 87 pin relay at the local oreilly auto parts for like $5.00 each. witch i can live with. i got the inline fuse and the wiring and ordered the rest of the special wiring componets last night. please forgive me as i have never done any wiring like this before. i'm still learning. but i will check out that link you gave me. thanks - - - Updated - - - thanks for that link. i just looked at it and thats just what i was looking for and bought a set. has the duel 87 pin even. i can live with $14 that includes 5 relays with relay plug ins. that sure beats the other relays that were $40 each. now all i have to do is wait till all the parts to show up so i can start putiing the wiring harness togather.

ok i found the relay at amazon i typed in IMPERIAL 87453 relay. they are expensive at $40 each. does anyone else know if there is any other kind of relay that i can use in this relays place?