99ramguy

Yes that was not my doing that was the wire tap I was talking About in my post which seems to have been done to correct the grounding issue inside the ecm and keeps the truck from idling at WOT. I agree they are not great for the wire and it is not going back on. I’m doing a splice off that wire to ground until I can get the ecm repaired.

Those rusty nuts were sanded at the contact surface before reinstalled don’t worry lol I agree I’m sure I’ll be sending it to auto computer specialists in the near future AKA Whenever I can go without my truck for a couple weeksWhenever I can go without my truck for a couple weeks and thanks I try to take a little bit of extra time, when the military style terminals and lugs get here it will be better

Yeah for sure haha! I will say on the bright side, everything regarding the wt mod and pcm protection is working great.

Well you won’t believe it.. re tapping the blk/blu wire into the APPS fixed it…it makes me wonder if the ecm isn’t pushing the ground to the wire…but it’s weird because the coolant sensor which shares the circuit shows 5v …then again it may be getting ground from the block so..I’m at a loss my thoughts: previous owner had an issue with it running, took it to shop, rather than replacing ecm they cheated it by ground tapping the sensor to block ground

Yes yes I would. I hope it’s not the ecm..it was fine before so idk why out would be ..but it would be my luck

Yes using the service manual I verified continuity from all six wires at the apps plug to the ECM. black/blu would be the master ground from pin 1 to pin11 on ecm..that’s the one that was tapped to ground.

No, no issue. I’m gonna unplug the ecm and check continuity on all 6 wires coming from APPS to ecm. I will say the apps plug is RIDICULOUSLY hard to unplug and this time one of the pins was pulled out a little so I’m wondering if it’s misaligning when plugging it back in Well looks like all six wires from the apps plug to the ecm are good black/yellow and blu/blk has .2 ohms and the rest were zero or .1.. its looking more like ecm issue, unless I’m just not getting the apps plugged in right. That’s the only thing I messed without outside of the WT mod. I’m about to put that stupid ground tap that was on there back on and see if it goes away

Ok, for some background, I’ve got 11 years working as a heavy wheel mechanic for the army and I’ve taught basic electrical, so I’m not a complete Mo-Ron at least when it comes to this stuff. I completed the WT mod as well as the PCM protection fuse … before the mod WTS would come on after about 5-6 second (I know) and truck would start right up no problem. Would do the trans lock unlock deal other wise run fine. During the mod I noticed some real janky wiring on the APPS harness (see pics) I repaired the broken and damaged wires and tested good continuity. Also noticed someone tapped a ground to the blk/blu wire on the apps harness so I took that off. after completing the mod I go to start it and the WTS comes on but doesn’t shut off and when I crank the key it starts right up but jumps straight to 2k RPM and just hangs there. I have traced the blk/blu wire all the way to the ecm and it is good, I have checked for 5v to the apps (good), I unplugged my quadzilla and to my surprise the WTS light did it’s normal deal Where it comes on after 5 secs, cycles the fuel pump, and shuts off..I go to turn it on and it still jumps up to 1800 rpm immediately…all the grounds are connected..everything is plugged in, I’ve done the apps reset…to no avail… p.s. I know the battery connections aren’t ideal I have military style lugs and terminals on the way, but it’s been running with these connection since I got it 2 months ago. please help I need an adult.