Mystykal

He pass away? Well if others can keep it up to date then his work can keep on. I was posting my recent endeavor with the setup.

Swapped over from my 63mm compressor wheel to the stock 60mm wheel and it feels good but does seem a bit slow till 1400, and still shows-21 drive and boost at all times, any idea what is causing it?

For some reason my screen keeps showing negative boost and drive pressure

My buddy made our two controllers, I'm not to savvy on electronics an electrical stuff.

I ended up returning everything to stock except the slight changes you suggested. It's a bit lazy under 1500-1650, I blame that on the 63mm wheel though.

Hmm, might have to do some thinking and digging on this, I just got my exhaust rebuilt an back on today as a single turbo. When it starts the turbo does its homing setup, which you hear as the brake kicks in, then when i hit the EB button, nothing happens. So i`m wondering whats up. EB shows up on the screen, but the turbo dont do the dance.

when we got the parts for me and my buddies, we only could find the chip an not a board. So he had to soder it up as well, I had to rebuild my turbo to make sure it was good, I think i put the arm back into the place it was supposed to be from last time.

I drove it to work before I left for Mt weekly route and it is much more useful then before, I adjusted the rpm curve some. I had to make the housing settings fairly tight or it let off way to fast, by 60k rpm it would go and open to 9cm or More and jt would barely make anything. Cruise at 72 or so, I run 4psi B/DP and its steady as a rock, egt 700 to 800. At just 20pai of boost on a pull it freight trains with no problem, I wonder if the air filter i have is so small that it js the limit for overall boost? Hitting 35psi and up is a huge choir that takes ages

I rebuilt the turbo, what I mean is i`m not sure it is in the stock location that it should be, which could be throwing it off by not being AT the actual start location, it could be off from there an not allow for proper full rotation.

Yeah sorry, I`m going to take the turbo apart next weekend an make sure i have the arm/VGT ring setup right, im wondering if its not back at proper zero to start with.

Does the size go up or down with the number as in high or low? So 1000 would be *small* and 50 would be *full open*??

The Exhaust brake doesnt seem to work right now either, I`m wondering if it is a bad cable setup, though it might be something on our end. 2K RPM on the engine an up seems to be a bit more snappy, but down between 1K an 2K it feels weak still, I have a smarty touch on the 90HP tune so it has fuel to spare, but Im wondering if I need to change the RPM curve now? It seems like its opening up to soon an letting the drive pressure drop off, the turbine is a HX40 67MM upgrade with a machined out exhaust housing to allow better flow for no drive pressure spikes during towing, i`m wondering if it flows so nicely that its not allowing good drive cause its letting off to soon?

Thanks man! You rock, I had to replace the actuator with one from City diesel an it works nicely, but I believe i`m not getting a vane test thats working right, it does one cycle says done then goes to the data page.

I installed the controller on a 06 Auto with a 63MM comp an a 67MM turbine upgrade, in a compound setup with a 77 an was wondering what you might suggest for changes to make to the VGT tune on the controller? I can`t seem to push past 80K RPM, and it feels like it wants to open up to soon, i`m pretty new to Arduino coding so I`m not to sure what i`d be looking at for changes. Any input would be awesome!