John 98 Cummins

Hi, Ive had code P0122 so i checked the apps voltage and at idle it was .39 and max was 3.58. So i loosened the two T20 torx on the apps and adjusted it up to .535.. then, i calibrated to the ecm by disconnecting battery for 20 minutes, reconnecting, key on, depress accelerator once, let off and key off.. my new apps range is .53 to 3.54. ive run it but not driven it. seems to run the way it had, which is good. no problem with how it runs. ive had trouble with it shifting, it doesnt want to shift down as quickly as i think it should. and it seems to shift up sooner into the next gear than maybe it should. seems to lock up sooner than it should. I dont recall what rpm it usually goes to lockup. Update: went for a drive. WHAT A HUGE DIFFERENCE. Drives and shifts alot better. maybe not perfect but down shifts better. also, has more acceleration. Would readjusting the apps to 0.35 volts at idle improve it more ? So i cleared all the codes. 0122 didnt come back. BUT i got this code. PO743 Torque converter clutch circuit electrical. It has a new alternator plus a filter on it to filter out any noise from the alternator. What might cause the 0743 and how to trouble shoot that ? Thanks

yes, i was reading another thread on replacing it. looks like the keyed cylinder may be ok. and its the actual ignition assembly. available at Rockauto. any tips on replacement ? Odd though the way the problem started... with tapping the starter to make it go. doesnt make sense. I jumped 12 v to the yellow wire and #85 finally had 12 volts in the relay box, So, i better order the ignition before pulling the lock out. Some of the videos i have watched, show it is the key assembly that has a broken piece to it, as opposed to the ignition assembly.. how do you rekey a new key assembly to my old key? before i ordered an assembly, i checked for continuity on the switch where the yellow and red wire would go, and i got continuity. the yellow wire terminal did look a little corroded, so maybe it was just a bad connection at the yellow wire.. that's odd that it would be corroding.. i wonder what would cause that.

Ok, I just tested the ignition switch.. all the wires seemed to be correct, except the YELLOW one, when i turn the key to start it, the yellow should give 12 volts i believe. I am just about to remove the 3 security torx and look a little bit closer. 2nd gen ignition switch replacement. hmm.

Except, i am not getting power to 86 with key on. 86 gives continuity to ground. I will double check again tomorrow if that is correct.. according to my diagram i made, 86 and 87 both had continuity to ground. 85 had neither voltage nor continuity.. I will see if i can check the ignition switch, see if it is sending out 12 volts. connect #30 to #87 briefly to start.

Dont know. in the relay slot for starter relay, i see 4/5 slots have working electric terminals. one terminal slot is empty. ignition off - one terminal has ( #30) 12v. ignition on,- only #30 has 12 v.. ignition on or off, what appears to be 86 and 87 go to ground. my meter was cold, and i didnt get an accurate resistance. slot 87A appears to be the empty one with no connector. photo below of the electrical box, the slot on the right is the one that the starting relay goes to. as i said earlier, i swapped the relay from the trailer relay spot,, and still had the problem. i am unsure if the trailer relay operates the same functions, though.

Thanks, how do I know which terminals are 85 and 86? are they marked ? I didnt notice. I guess with key on, 2 termanals should be hot, and one should go to ground. the fourth one is neither hot or ground? could be done with process of elimination.

I dont get 12 v to the solenoid with a jumper wire and multi meter when i turn the key to start it. in other words, i ve confirmed the solenoid isnt getting 12v.. Plus, every time, i can hotwire to the starter solenoid and it starts right up. I tested both fuse and relay with the key on and got 12 volts at both. makes me think it is the ignition switch, itself.

Here is the actual. I swapped the starter relay with the Trailer relay and the problem still persisted. I will look over the schematic and diagram sent.

Thanks for the responses. Yes, I thought it was the starter.. it is only a year old and still under warranty. Now I have a wire connected to the starter solenoid up top, and now this is how i start, by hotwiring right to the battery,, starts everytime, i just have to open the hood.. I dont get any voltage down to the starter when i turn the key. what does the middle wire on the reverse/neutral switch do on the transmission? it was odd that it had 9-10 volts to it.. since it did it intermittently at first, and is now a constant situation, i wonder if it was a relay going bad ? any idea which relay it would be that turns the juice on to the starter? The starter relay and fuse ? I have the top of the box that shows the locations.. I'll see if i can send a pic in of it so i make sure i am checking the right one.

Hi, new member here. I am diagnosing a no crank problem for the last few months. Turn the key and nada, no clickity click, nothin. the first 19 times, i tapped the starter with a steel bar and it'd start then start normally for a week or so. . I dont think tapping actually had any effect now, i did think it was the starter. but starter works great. maybe a relay going bad and a few seconds to reset ? the 20th time, i had to hotwire the starter solenoid and it fired right up, then it worked a few more times like normal. now, after the 21st time,, i have to hotwire the solenoid each time i go to start. I checked the voltage at the reverse/neutral switch on the starter. 3 wires on that plug. Brn/grn stripe had 12 volts, blk/wht had 10 volts which i dont understand that. and purp/grn had 0 volts. jump the Brn to Purp and the reverse lights come on. Jump the Brn to Blk does nothing as far as starting or getting juice up to the starter. Codes are P0122 , APPS, its been there for a long time. P1693, this one i havent seen this code before this problem. it is Trq converter solenoid.. ? what do i troubleshoot next ? the ignition switch ?