D-LUX

Update to this!! All fixed Alright after driving the truck for a couple months while still having the no start issue on and off I finally figured it out... the fuse block inside the truck is a two piece design that tends to come apart causing a bad connection to the fuses... my dash lights and no start issue were resolved after fussing with the connections until they were right.... hope this helps

To both posts... Was under the recommended Hp level... Have driven manual my whole life so no I don't rest my foot on the clutch as I know that will kill it.. When driving it I usually started in second by just letting out on the clutch with little to no throttle input... I don't believe my driving style had anything to do with the short life span, the 35's and the tall gear ratio was the killer to that clutch... To the OP, if you ever plan on going past anything more than a box style tuner/chip I'd recommend a dual disk, they're rebuildable and can handle way more power with less plate load and are not as loud as some believe... I daily drive a southbend street D/D 3250 with NO issues... It will chatter when trying to slip it in second which is expected with that style..but to the doubters it is just as quite as the single... The newer style doesn't have the old rattle that they used to

Save up for a dual disk and never look back... Went through a single disk OFE with just a tuner within 30,000 miles... Never raced or hooked up to a sled but I do drive it hard from time to time

where are all of the dash ground located?

little update... the truck is now running... I took the ecm down to cummins southern plains to be tested, it checked out fine so we took it back to the house, installed it and the truck now all of a sudden fired up.. did some more poking around and have come to find out that there is a short somewhere in the harness inside the cab that caused my issue.... the dash lights will come on and off randomly when i wiggle the harness under the dash next to the firewall plug going to take a day off tomorrow and dive into the wiring to find the short thanks for the help yall

thanks for the welcome and ya ive run the scanner and picked up nothing another wierd issue is that i cannot read the codes through the odometer any more. - - - Updated - - - new issue is i no longer have any dash lights.. is this leaning towards a pcm or an ecm - - - Updated - - - alright yall ive narrowed down to the ecm, the cel light, wts light, abs light, and fuel light were flasing on and off at will, the lift pump would run every few seconds and my scanner would not pull codes while this was going on... could i just have the ecm reflashed or do I need to replace it

to start this off ill give yall a little back ground info on the truck its a 2001 5 speed with 124,000 miles has the usual mods dual disk airdog 150 new injection pump as of 25,000 ago afe intake 5 inch exhaust the truck has had a no start issue in the past but sort of comes and goes intermittently. The symptoms include, when you turn the key on the is a 3 second or more delay until the liftpump comes on, the wait to start light only comes on for about 2 seconds and the truck will not start Also with the key in the run position you cannout hear or feel the asd relay click, ive checked the relay and confrimed that it is working..the truck will roll over for days but wont get going today it started doing again after i attempted to install an edge comp box I got in on trade for some other parts. I will admit that i had to wire in the 2001 map sensor adapters and may have gotten them wired wrong, but when i take the edge harness off and go back to just the boost fooler it still wont start. my question is could I have fried my pcm/ecm by wiring the map sensor up incorrectly? has anyone else had these no start issues? thanks for any help Scott*