Tomassend

Lots of great ideas and discussion here. After more research on the above, the TIPM is costly and not accepant of non-stock components......much like the HID mentioned. The lights do draw some significant power, the 20" bar pulls 9 amps. The thing is a beast. The game plan from here is to integrate the POD LED's into the existing fog light wiring and wire the bar separately with provided harness. This way the use of highbeams will still be there, but will likely never use it......making it obselete. Thanks for everything above. Dave

I have a 2006 And recently purchased LED light bars which I would like to mount on the front of the vehicle. I will be replacing the two lower stock fog lights with LED pods and adding a 20 inch lightbar under the grill between bumper to use for highbeams. Ideally I would like to utilize the fog light function for the LED pods but leave the pods on when initiating the highbeams. Speaking of the high beams I was hoping to incorporate the 20 inch lightbar into the highbeam switch that's located on the steering column, does anybody see any issues with doing this? To summarize I suppose the total level of effort would be integrating the pods into the current fog light switch and then bypassing the fog light off function when initiating the highbeams; leaving all lights on. As well as including the 20 inch bar to turn on with the highbeams. Any insights you guys had out there are greatly appreciated hope everybody has a great Memorial Day weekend.

Yep, read into that too. You know if your injectors are leaking if you taked the tack up to 3 k (when engine is warm) and watch it come back down. If it doesn't come back smooth and hangs at all.....you got leakers. Otherwise for the injector change, if you keep it in the exrta 40 hp range you don't seem to cross the threshold of more fuel efficient and too much power/fuel consumption.

What install are you referring to?

AH64ID - What mileage are you seeing with your travel trailer?

The overhead was never really accurate from when I purchased the truck. Hand calculation seems to be the most accurate methos of measurement. No leaking injectors, they were all tested and 99% score in relation to one another. I also recently ran a fuel system cleaner through it as well. Truck has 145,000 miles.

What about injector changes.....has anyone out there had good luck with changing out of stock injectors?

Kelly Safari ATR Tires 265/70, 4WD, 4 speed auto. Mopartechnician - What type of benefit can you see by camshaft changes?

Totally understand the speed to fuel economy relationship, as we have performed tests mush like the ones listed above on our trips. Driving habits are huge, will never disagree with you on that. Although I will say, I drove to WY from WA without the Edge Tuner, I got 10 MPG @ 55 mph without overdrive. I don't ever want to drive a stocker 5.9 Cummins ever again, LOL. However, to keep the title of the post relevant to modifications......are there any recommendations to elements which can improve Fuel Economy performance?

Wondering if any of you out there could assist with handling this topic, I am very pleased with the modifications I have done thus far and just trying to finish the upgrades with focus on getting more fuel efficiency out of the vehicle. Vehicle Current State: 2006 Dodge 5.9 2500 Mega Cab Edge CTS Tuner - Low Boost Setting on 1 4" Exhaust from Turbo back with 36" resonator Stock Wheels and Tires Stock Airbox - This should be good to 450 Raw HP Currently we are doing heavy amounts of traveling with a 9.5 foot Cab Over Camper and 4 Place snowmobile trailer through pretty mountainous terrain. All the infrastructure is in place to handle these items from a airbag, tie down, and steering perspective. This allows the truck to remain in good riding height while traveling....which is normally around 70 mph as we are slightly inpatient Current MPG Loaded - 13/14 MPG Any insights you have is appreciated. Dave

Thanks for the advice guys. I'll go with the Spicers.The bike is a Transition Bandit. They have short chain stays and just rally through terrain.Dave

Looks like the issue is in fact the U-joint.I just bought the truck and it has 135,000 miles on it. I have put 5K on it myself with a 2300 lb slide in truck camper in the back AND do all mountain driving living in Washington State.I don't see it being a big deal that it went out, but I will likely replace all 3 since the axle is out and they are all there.Any recommendations on a strong U-joint? The camper lives in the back, it's from 1979 and we use it every weekend to ski, snowmobile, and mountain bike.My GF is actually building up a bike right now, attached is a photo. Dave

So it sounds to me like were considering the squeaking noise to be a bearing inside the front wheels or you joint problem?In regards to the vibration question, I do notice a little bit of vibration among taking off getting into the 10 to 20 mile-per-hour speeds. But after about 20 mph the vibration seems to stop or not stop but go unnoticeable.The vibration is in the can of the truck and applying the brakes really doesn't do much except's bring the squeaking back when it starts getting into the lower speeds back in the 15's intense.With wheel bearing and I know the vibration does transfer into the steering wheel but I'm not seeing that type of experience while driving especially on slowing down it's only one speeding up.

I have noticed the noise is it's loudest at lower speeds. If placed in drive (auto) and not accelerating the noise is it's loudest. There are times that a mild clinking noise is also heard.......When putting it in reverse and creeping backward the noise is also very prominent. This is another reason I feel the u joint is the culprit.One up to speed the noise is reduced substantially and cannot really be detected. It can be picked up if you're by a median on the roadway at higher speeds but it's subtle.I don't think it's a bearing, it is not a rotational wobbly grinding noise,,.... Which is a lower grunty noise in my past experience.Let me know if I am missing anything,Dave

So I'm driving down the road today, and noticed a rotational squeak. So I get gas and the noise kind of goes away once I get up to speed you don't like 30 miles an hour on back roads but then next to like cement wall I can hear it if I give some more gas. If I'm at a stop sign and I make a left turn and get gas through the left turn this week gets louder as I'm going to the turn.I recently had the exhaust done but I don't think it's the exhaust. I thought maybe the pipe was squeaking or something weird like that, but based on what I'm encountering I think the initial signs point to u-joint but I'm okay with being talked out of that assumption.As always all your input and help is appreciated, 2006 space Dodge ram 2500 diesel.Thank you,Dave Tomassen

Reset the Edge CTS codes and then ran the diagnostics, no codes. Looks like that did it, sweetness.Baffles - That wasn't you? Oh well, I removed them anyways. It was super simple and even though there aren't any real gains but heard you can hear the turbo more. I figured it was like blowing the baffles out of a motorcycle pipe or something. It's good to just take things apart and get more comfortable with digging in the truck as a whole.I will get the Airaid MIT for sure. I did see the directional vanes and figured not to fiddle.

Airad MIT OR http://psmdiesel.com/cool_hose_dpp_3rd.php Leaving pumpkin, keeping it simple and cheaper by eliminating muffler only. Besides I have a Modular Intake tube to buy. HAHAHA

Rogan - 850......don't quote me on that. I think that was a typo on my part, sorry for that. I just tried to remember and 850 came up.......newbie with a diesel, lol.AH64ID - I just caught wind in the performance forum that you blew the baffles out of your intake hose.....I just followed suit on that this afternoon. I did it about 10 minutes after Dorkweed mentioned it to me as I am on my way to tuning up the exhaust and intake zone of the truck.I replaced the solenoid this afternoon, it's just held by a couple torx bit screws and mounted to the side of the airbox. I started the truck and the volts climbed on the dash, no check gauges, no check engine.I definitely see where you are coming from with the battery cable thing. When removing it the thing was mega tight, so unfortunately it was not the issue. I spend a lot of time driving on the weekends with the camper, so the security of having the solenoid replaced was worth it. I will clear the codes on the Edge CTS and then re-run to see if I pick up anymore, fingers crossed.Thanks for your replies, great to meet you all as well.Dave

Wild and Free - Are you at all concerned with that pipe allowing water to suck into the airbox? I guess I ask cause every other air intake I have seen always goes up. Now I don't have plans to mud the truck, but sometimes you never know where you end up going.......I drive a lot of dirt roads too, so dust will be a large and in charge. Your thoughts.I see the cool hose, definitely makes sense. Will pull trigger on that for sure.Flagmanruss - I have the resonator (30") on order and making my custom turn down pipe from a 15" Elbow. I see the muffler (it's HUGE) but there's this Pumpkin looking thing right after the turbo....is that a catalytic converter? Don't I wanna remove that too?Dorkweed - Baffles removed.Gunna be RAD when it's done.,Dave

I have an Edge CTS programmable tuner.My setup has a slide in 9.5 foot camper in it, Western Wilderness 1979.I have been playing with the settings and find that driving and changing settings based on terrain has been my best mpg ranges. I live in WA state, so when I am in the flats I cruise on 1, rollings hills 2, passes, 3.....watching my EGT's and load % when in overdrive. However, the biggest gains I have seen is when reducing the low boost fueling level to 2....thinking maybe even 1.I had low boost fueling at level 3 and even though the truck ran like an ape, my mileage was about 12 mpg (with the camper) doing 5 over the speed limit 65-75 mph. What can I say, I am 32 years old and got places to be, hahahahah.However I changed the setting to low boost fueling level 2 and saw 15 mpg without changing driving habits. Was there a change in throttle guts/response? Absolutely, but 3X30 is 90 extra miles and even though I may seem eager to get somewhere, I don't have anything to prove.Side Note: I have been on this forum for 3 days, and really stoked to be here. You guys are awesome and thank you for all the great replies and spurring even more enthusiasm with everything.Cheers.Dave

Can you send pics of the elbow airbox or a link? I would be willing to do that! How do you pull baffles out? I like me a good whistle! Going for a long resonator. Grabbing eggs. DT Resonator: Bueno? http://www.amazon.com/OBX-Long-Universal-Straight-Resonator/dp/B008O8SY0I/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1368733825&sr=8-27&keywords=exhaust+resonator+4%22 Down turn tip: Can't find a black down turn tip, so I am going to buy a straight steel down turn, powder coat it, and weld it on. I'll be stopping the ceramic coat 2 inches short of the end for weld, and coating the downward cut up into the pipe 3 inches for the nice rolled look.

I see your recommendations and taking them.Any good down pipes you recommend?I clean my truck when it rains, PS.Dave

Thank you.I just remember I had an old Ford Explorer ( I prefer not to talk about it) and I had an exhaust leak close to the headers.....it actually kept my car from coasting freely.Was it a huge notice? No, not at all, but it was happening and even though no one else could tell I knew what was happening cause it was my problem child.From what I hear, you recommend the short resonator to give it the throaty sound it deserves. Guess I'll save the CAI for when I replace injectors which will happen at some point, when it's needed. Right? For now I was running a Wicks Air filter....what filter do you recommend?I have the 2500 Mega cab.

I like two strokes. I will leave the back pressure to the sleds.Zero back pressure - Will I encounter reverse exhaust and engine braking when off the accelerator? Like Jake braking??? So the truck won't coast freely??? This may be a dumb question :duh:If I can keep the cab relatively quiet, lets go for throaty.....I mean it's a Cummins power house, let it out right? What kind of sound would a free flow muffler deliver?Fueling mods, I do have a Edge Programmer that is delivering some low boost fueling, so I can play little bit, would a CAI be worth it now?Dave

Truck: 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 CumminsOkay, so I was at the truck shop and they have indicated that a S&B intake and an exhaust would give my truck some much added love. However I have been researching the upgrade and have some questions.Goal: Squeak out some better MPG's and if it looks cooler too, sweet!From my research, the 2006 comes with a 4" pipe form the turbo back, hit a muffler, and exits. So at this point since it's all 4 " I am not going to buy a whole new exhaust kit and throw a freeflow muffler (Magnaflow) on there, and down pipe it cause I don't want soot on the back of my camper or camper tie downs.This is the time to offer alternatives, run a resonator only (to get enough back pressure) use a different freeflow muffler........I can definitely be persuaded in different directions. This includes where to terminate the down pipe, or even what down pipe to get. What can I say, I like opinions :)However, I want to ensure that this extra work will actually increase efficiency of the vehicle. Has anyone seen MPG increases with an upgrade like this?Thanks guys, Dave