DRGABE

Hello. Checking to see if anyone has also experienced this. With engine running, attempt to turn headlights on and engine dies, as if it were a kill switch, and will not start. Some research suggested to remove park lamp fuse. It worked, but now no running lights except headlights. Brakes and hazards do work, but my concern is with tail/marker/license plate and front ambers. Can this be as easy as a bad ground or am I looking at a full ECM replacement again? Thanks , DRG

The suggested test light method worked. After a few hours of cleaning ground and some deductive reasoning a factory buggered splice was found to be the cause.ba I knew it had to be something basic. Thanks again, for the patience and direction, and I''m learning to not yell so much

Thank You. I was hoping there was a fuse block not shown in the FSM. Much appreciated.

Sorry about all caps, default setting on keypad. I'm not changing anything from stock. One marker bulb was knocked off by brush, and I simply replaced it, now none of the four ID/clearance and the tailgate bar work. The wires and plugs all appear to be in good condition. What I can't figure out is where the circuit is broken, pretty simple blk/yl to all the lighting from the headlight switch, with no fuse between. Everything else, including the roof clearance lights work.

HAS ANYONE HAD THE SIDE CLEARANCE/IDENTIFICATION LIGHTS, INCLUDING TAILGATE STRIP, JUST STOP WORKING? TRIED TO DO THE RIGHT THING AND REPLACE ONE AND NOW NONE OF THEM LIGHT. CANNOT FIND ANY REFERENCE TO A FUSED CIRCUIT FOR THE LITTLE GUYS IN THE FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL. ALL OTHER LIGHTS WORK AS INTENDED, ROOF MARKERS, FRONT AND REAR RUNNING AND HAZARDS. I'M AT A LOSS HERE.

No worries. I do appreciate all of the information from you guys.

Thank you. Not what I was hoping to hear, but the arrangements will have to be made.

Okay, I assume it can be tested on the truck. no need to pull and ship across country.

Okay, new batteries, cleaner connections, starts and runs fine. A few days went by and the WOT occurred again during mild weather and half warm engine (something keeps nagging at me about the fuel choice too, I don't know why). Did the ground mod the day after and figured I'd do the PCM blue wire next week, all better, around 2 hours work like Mike stated, not rushing anything. Thought I'd go a step further and add the 150a breaker on the alternator charge wire ......and trip....trip several times. Did I read right, that is and indication the diodes are shot? Before that addition all seemed right. Haven't quite figured out how to test the ac noise properly yet, but learning slowly.

I'll let him know, and definitely do the ground mod upon return. Thanks for all the tips and advice.

Batteries are from 2016. Truck was towed to the shop, charged up and it started/idled normally. He's running diagnostics with scanner and checking for shorts etc.

WOT immediately upon start, no pattern yet, and I don't let it run a course. I can't bring myself to peg the tachometer indefinitely. This condition just began. 5 attempts to start were made, coolant temp was maybe up to 160 or 170, outside temp in the 30's and humid. I did let it sit over night where it stood, and the batteries were drained enough that it wouldn't turn over. Batteries were just cleaned and load tested within the last week, all was fine.

Are you suggesting that any one of these three could be the cause of the WOT condition? Or they are modifications I should perform as prevention.

Correct, and alternator was new in 2019. Wouldn't know about noise issues. Not familiar with the former.

Been having issues with the WTS lamp. Longer delays, sometimes never lighting. Haven't disabled the comp box. As far as the rest, I don't have a live data tool available until Monday or so. I did install the high idle switch years ago as well.