Lone Watie

Thanks for quick reply. The oil I'm questioning is not a Sam's club brand. The first is Chevron and the second is Mobil, just to avoid any confusion. It just happens that Sam's has them at decent prices. As for intervals, 7500 for changes, all stock, mainly highway miles to/from work 60 miles one way. On off weeks putting around town. Little to no towing. Easy on the pedal. Minimal idling, block heater for couple hours in morning, and then maybe a 5-10 minute warmup after that, if that.

Without stirring up a fuel pump debate, where is best price to find an OEM lift pump? Thanks.Also, can I safely use the following oils from Sam's Club:1. Delo 15W40 API CJ-42. Mobil Delvac 1300 super 15W40 also same API ratingsThanks.

When I install my big line kit from FF to VP, and if I keep my pressure gauge tapped at the fuel filter test port, will the increased fuel line size result in more pressure at the VP inlet that I won't be able to see on my gauge because it's mounted at the fuel filter test port. Just curious. Thanks.

Cummins QSOL wrote me that my engine was made at the Columbus MidRange Engine Plant, located about five miles south of Columbus, Indiana. Don't know if that's good or not. I was hoping for an amigo motor. Guess I just need to get under the old girl and find out for sure if she's a 53 or not.

Thanks for the info, and thanks for the reference for Glacier. I'm curious why more of us not running this pump, is it a performance thing, i.e. doesn't blend well with chips and smartys and higher hp injectors. Just curious. Thanks again, going to read the thread now.

What are your takes on the fuel boss mech. pump from Glacier? Not too much info on them over at CF or DTR, and what is there is positive.

Got a big line kit (FF to VP, orderd the 3/8 as I'm all stock for now) ordered from vulcan today. +1 for vulcan, ordered it and within an hour was already shipped. I'll keep you all posted on my readings once I get it installed. I'm taking the fuel mods slowly as haven't made mind up yet which route to go with. Right now, I'm leaning heavily toward the OEM relocation kit fro geno's to at least make it easier to change if'n it does take a dump on me. Also, monitored my idle pressure today - In Flagstaff at 7700 feet: 15 psi. Where I work in Winslow at 5500 feet, one hour later, almost 16 PSI. Is this the result of altitude change, or having driven an hour to work and truck nice and warmed up. My readings for my ride to work steady state between 65-80 mph were 13.8 to 12.9 psi.

FLMAN - Can you tell where the motor was made (see attached sheet) with the info from the engine data plate? Thanks - WatieISB.pdf

Fortunately, have other things to do on the way to work as well along I-40, such as running the California and NM drivers off the road when they don't get out of the passing lane (kidding).

Thanks, I looked at that, and am coming to conclusion that fuel pressure will be more a factor of accelerator pedal position vs. speed, as when steady state is achieved it seems pressure builds back up. Am I on the right track with this. Finally, I have something I can do on my hour drive to work, monitor my fuel pressure. I got tired of my music mix on my ipod, and open container laws prohibit me from having a beer.

I hooked up the geno's vulcan fuel pressure gauge this afternoon, and am getting 14.5 - 15 psi at idle, with a drop during normal acceleration to around 12-13 psi, and steady state psi at 45 mph (haven't been out on the highway yet) of around 14 psi. Are these numbers good/about what others are seeing with stock setup?Thanks.I'm still waiting on my fuel line for my isspro gauge, and was bored today, so installed the tapped banjo into the outlet port on the filter, connected the vulcan test gauge, zip tied open the needle valve so it wouldn't turn, leaving my test port on the filter for my permanent gauge. Still haven't ordered the big line kit for filter to VP.

Mine is definitely a high line CTM. I still have factory radio/cd (single disc)/cassette in the truck, there were just a lot more wires leading to that, and felt more comfortable with working with 2 wires finding the hot vs. the mess going into the stereo. Could my wiring job, given the above diagrams, be increasing the resistance usually expected by the CTM, which is causing my issue? Thanks for the reply. My learning curve with this goes up every day. By the way, no offense meant on my other thread about tire size. I probably have small **** complex about my tires. My MPG last tank, by the way, changing subject a little was 20.3 (hand calc) SGII spit out upper 19s, but was disconnected for about 10 miles, and therefore not completely accurate. SGII is seemingly more or less calibrated for my truck now, as the numbers are more believable.

Anybody out there on this one? Should I maybe disconnect the lighting for the gauge until this is resolved? Thanks.

A couple assumptions I'm making about my setup.1. I'm assuming that my ground is good, as if it weren't, then I wouldn't be getting the light to turn on with my headlight switch2. I'm also assuming, as mentioned above, that my flasher unit is fineAlso, when it does this, my door jamb switch will not shut the interior lights off. The only way to shut them off is to turn the dimmer all the way down to off.I'm hoping that I didn't fry the CTM, as I'm sure this isn't a cheap thing to replace, and I want to fix my problem before throwing parts at it, especially high dollar parts, which if I haven't found the problem will just fry a replacement CTM. Thanks in advance for any help.

I'm still waiting on my ss braided fuel line for my Isspro mechanical fp gauge, but decided to wire up the lights the other day. I tapped into the ash tray light as recommended by geno's garage. Now, I'm getting an intermittent condition of the dome and courtesy lights turning on while I'm driving, and today was inside the store shopping only to leave the store and come outside and hear my factory alarm honking going off. Then 5 minutes later while driving, the flasher unit started making that sound like the relay was opening and closing. My wiring is like this: Ash tray ground line is orange/black. I didn't use this, I used a ground underneath the steering wheel. Spliced into the hot wire (tested with a volt meter/fluke 88v), reading on the source wire was 12v + so knew it was the hot, tested with the ground and got -12v. It did this the other day when I originally used the cup holder light, which made me promptly rewire the hot to the ash tray (as recommended by Geno's). Now doing it again, and scratching my head at it. I'm having a hard time believing that the flasher unit all of a sudden decided to go out coincidentally after I did some wiring. I also know this, all of those wires go like this: 1. From fuse block to the Central Timer Module (located to the right of the steering wheel, left of the ash tray, back side of the dash. See attached diagrams 2. From the CTM to Joint Connector No. 5 3. From Joint Connector No. 5 to Ground 201 and the cup holder and the ash tray lights. This CTM controls lots of things, for example, audio warnings and the factory alarm system, turning the interior lights off after a certain time, etc. My goal is to have the gauge lights dim with the dimming control, so any other suggestions are appreciated. I'm just looking for the closest source for the hot, and maybe I did the ground wrong.

Thanks for all the replies and advice. I am thinking of ordering from tirerack and didn't want to find out the hard way they wouldn't fit. I've used tirerack before with some Kumho's which I've really liked, I just didn't rotate them properly and now need some new. I'll have to buy 5 (1 for the spare). Not sure which brand yet, because wasn't sure about the size. I just know I'm tired of seeing these wimpy looking shoes on my truck, and looking for a compromise between too large/mpg/handling, etc.

Thanks for the reply. My rims are the factory rims, and don't have mud flaps. What do you mean by the back spacing, i.e. what would you use for that? Thanks again. I still can't believe the stock tires on this truck from the factory were 245s. I went to 265s and they still look small. Buddy at work has 275s which are a little more like it in terms of aesthetics.

What's the biggest size tire I can put on a 16" rim?Right now I'm running 265/75/16s but am thinking of either 275s or 285s, will they work or hit the wheel well or anything else? All is stock on m truck, no lift kits or anything like that.Thanks in advance.I think I should have put this in non-powertrain - apologies.

Thank you much.

While waiting for a big line kit, I just want to know if the bolt holding the out line to the VP is the same size as the tapped banjo bolt, i.e. already have the tapped banjo, plus 2 crush washers. As for the reply about test ports. The 99's test ports are on the filter housing canister, one on the dirty side, one on the clean. If there's another one on the VP I haven't found it yet, but there probably is, just need to look harder. thanks for the replies.

Is the banjo bolt on the clean side of the filter (left side in the picture) holding the line to the VP44 the same size as the tapped banjo bolts geno's garage sells? I want to replace it with a tapped banjo bolt so that I have an access point to test my fuel pressure once my permanent gauge is installed. In other words, I'll be using the capped port on the clean side of the filter for my permanent gauge going into the cab, but want to be able to hook up my test gauge to test the accuracy of the Isspro I'm installing (mech) using the line out going to the VP with a tapped banjo bolt, but don't want to take that bolt out if it's not the same size. Thanks. Lastly, is this a good idea to do if the bolt sizes are the same, or is it best to leave that line alone?

So how did you install gauge without isolator? Did you just connect both ends, and it gets enough fluid in the line to give an accurate pressure reading? It seems to me that with the gauge end of the fuel line closed off that fuel would not be able to get to the gauge needle resulting in an inaccurate pressure reading. I've never done this before, so don't know how it all plays out. Thanks.

Lots of good points here to consider not using an isolator, and I'm not at all discounting all the concerns, as they are definitely warranted. As for installing without isolator, for those who don't use an isolator, what steps need to be taken? I was reading over on CF about having to bleed the line at the gauge. Any tips on best way to do this. Is this the order I would install this gauge:1. Tap into filter with needle valve closed2. Run/route my line into the cab3. Install into the gauge4. Bleed the line at the gauge?4. Make my lighting connectionsThanks.

We went from Flagstaff at 7500 down to Sedona at 5500 today, total temp change was 45 or so in Flag up to 60 in Sedona. My IAT went up to 100-110, WT up to 186. Back up hill again this evening stayed around 100 all the way into Flag with temps down in low 40s. This was first test of my sheet metal. Next test will be how she holds up in the weather come Monday.

I've been struggling to get 90 degrees on the IAT with outside temps from the teens up to 32, am hoping this front will help out. We'll see, haven't taken her out yet with low temps. My coolant temp is hovering around 183 for now once she's warmed up. She gets up to 190, then I see my thermostat open and she drops back down to the lower 180s.