Lone Watie

It was a tough decision for me concerning using isolator or not. Lots of reading here and on CF mention the problems with isolators going out, and the inaccuracy, then again, there's probably a lot of folks who've used one with no problem. My reasoning, which may not be the most sensible, is with something mechanical, I'd simply rather mitigate the risk of a leak using a tougher line, and minimizing the curvature/stress of where the line is placed, hence the dash cubby. I also figure that if I'm going to use something that doesn't have a direct mech. link to the gauge, I would be better off using an electrical gauge. A leak is a leak to me, just a matter of whether I want antifreeze v. diesel leaking. As for accidents, well I have no come back for that, because anything can happen. It's a calculated risk decision with me. I figure that if I'm in an accident which would cause my fuel line to rupture from its placement on my filter then its routing into the cab (center mounted on the dash) I probably have a lot more to worry about than a few drops of leaking diesel, i.e. my front end will probably be crushed in pretty good at that point. Your points are excellent points, hence the manufacturers recommendation to use an isolator. The jury is still out, as I haven't mounted anything yet, and my ss braided line may not work the way I envision and I might have to rethink my plan. I will be using a needle valve as recommended here to minimize the amount of fuel going into the gauge, though.

It was 2 sided rhino grip tape, which cost more than regular carpet tape, and I'm hoping because it cost more, it will be stronger. The duct tape backing had been holding up pretty good that I put on last week, and several trips to work and back (120 mi R/T). That's the key to keeping them in place. Without the duct tape on the grill to give the 2 sided tape a firm base, I don't think any kind of tape would hold up to well. We'll see, and I'll let you all know after our storms next week.

There's an idea also, I just figured the cup holder would be easier as there's only 2 wires going into it as opposed to other things which have many more, i.e. less chance for a screw up (I'm not the smartest one around). I lost track of my maintenance when I was overseas for 4 years. Got a new lift pump and VP44 during that time courtesy of a relative who was watching my truck who accidentally filled it with gas, got back from overseas and had lots going on my last couple years in the military, but now am getting my mind right boss, and getting back into taking care of my girl. By the way, the SGII looks like it might be putting out some more credible numbers today. We'll see.

It's galvanized sheet metal from the hvac department of Home Depot. Was surprisingly easy to trim, don't know the thickness, but it's not very thick, and very flexible. I think the tape will hold up as well. While I was at it, I cut 4 more (1 sheet of the sheet metal will make 2 sets), just in case they fall off. Don't know how to weld yet (what's wrong with me), but planted a seed with my brother to go together on a machine and learn.

Thanks for all the help/tips/advice. Ordered a dipricol optix black face/bezel mech. fuel pressure gauge from puredieselpower.com today. Going to try and route it with the braided stainless steel line using the dash mount from geno's. While shopping at geno's picked up a few other things also, vulcan fuel pressure test gauge, filter maintenance kit, the 4-2-1, tranny filter/gasket, banjo bolt and gaskets. Hopefully will see it all some time next week so I can install the gauge on my next week off, week after next, plus do the routine maintenance thing (long overdue, should have my wrist slapped). Will post some pics once I get the gauge installed. Had my instrument cluster bezel and cup holder off yesterday looking for a good place to splice into. I think using the cup holder light wiring will work as it dims with the dimmer and is close to the cubby mount. Was going to get the steering mount, but figured the braided stainless line will probably not like the extreme bend which would be needed, whereas there's plenty of room for flexibility under the dash. Plan on using the firewall plug which is currently unused (the one to the right of the steering wheel), plus a grommet for protection. Again, thanks for the help, and look forward to getting it in, getting some pics posted, and any tips that some other newbie like me might be able to use.Once I absorb the shock of today's order, will be getting the other gauges soon, and working on an aftermarket fueling system (still undecided on which).

Just wanted to show my cheap winter front <$20 1. Thin sheet of sheet metal from Home Depot for $9 (got the one in the ducting department which had cardboard around it (which I used for the template) 2. Duct Tape 3. 2-sided carpet tape Used duct tape on the grill front to provide a good base for the 2-sided carpet tape (by the way, the duct tape by itself probably provides enough barrier, but doesn't look as good). Cut out the sheet metal using some cardboard for a template. Trimmed best I could to fit the openings with the sheet metal shears. Put the 2 sided carpet tape on the back, peeled it and stuck it on. Don't know yet how it will bear in the elements, but will find out next week as Northern AZ is expecting some good snow fall. Only had one mishap on the lower right, accidentally pushed the corner of the grill in too much because the front piece wasn't quite trimmed enough.

ISX - do you have that ss fuel line going all the way to gauge? Are the fittings for the ss line 1/8? Did you have to reduce the ss fitting down to 1/8 anywhere in the line? Is that a 90 degree elbow coming out of the port? Did you use a tapped banjo bolt? Thanks for the picture and help.

Mike - once again, thanks, here is a pic of the fuel filter housing, do you mean the port on the left?

Thanks for quick reply, still a little confused about which port - when you say inner most port, do you mean the port with the fuel line going to the VP44 or one of the ports which is just capped off. As for the braided line, I plan on probably going with the steering pod so I can keep the a pillar free for the other 3 gauges down the road. Do you think the braided line will be flexible enough to route under dash up to steering mount pod? Also, I noticed you just use the nylon tubing - are you pretty happy with that set up? Only reason was considering braided line was for durability, plus looks good. What are your thoughts on the braided line? Mike you are a true Cummins Diesel renaissance man, by the way, and your guidance is appreciated. Did you happen to read my latest post concerning the SGII? My mpg numbers still are all over the place, and not sure I can justify keeping this thing. Just did a fill up yesterday from 1/4 tank like book says, but still getting a lot of jumping around on dynamic mpg. The only time the dynamic/real time mpg seems to be accurate is when I accelerate - it calms it down to the upper teens to mid 20s only then, but it's driving the average up to an unreal number. I'm backing my calculations up by hand, by the way, and pulling almost 19 from last fill up to now. Also, had to make a major adjustment to the amount the SGII thinks I put in the tank, around 13 gallons or so if remember correctly. It just doesn't seem to want to give my any accuracy. I like the idea of it, and am really giving this thing a fair shake, but it's not looking too good for keeping it, as the main reason I want to use it is for mpg. Thanks again.

For 99 owners, where did you tap for your fuel line to gauge. My filter housing doesn't have anything on bottom to tap into like Mike's does. All I have on filter housing is the inline from the lift pump and the out line to the IP, both are on top of the filter housing. Also there are 2 capped ports on top, sorry no pics right now. Is the out line to the IP where I would thread in my tapped banjo bolt for the fuel line. Also, is it okay to run braided line all the way to mech. gauge, don't want isolator. Plan on doing the needle valve setup. Will braided line go into the gauge, i.e. will it thread into the port on the gauge itself, or do I have to do the nylon tubing kit. Thanks.

I made up my x-gauges for the average mpg, etc, and one for horsepower, and I'm still seeing some pretty crazy numbers coming off the dynamic and average mpg, as in the dynamic is jumping all over the place, it seems to go in a circuit of anywhere from down in the single digits all the way up to over 1000mpg, and then back down. Anyway, this is effecting the average mpg, which is spitting out a number in the mid 30's, which in turn is telling me I can drive over 1000 miles on a tank (I wish). Also, my horsepower numbers aren't anywhere near yours (Mopar1973Man, that is), they are down in the teens. Do you think there's something wrong with this unit, or is my ECM just putting garbage out to it? My overhead computer is more in line with actual calculations, even with the larger diameter tire on her (265/75/16). I'm trying to determine whether I should give my buddy from work $100 for this thing or not. The IAT, Water temp, and RPM numbers are all in line with what I'm seeing on the dash (except for the IAT, which tonight on way to work with temp around 32 F my IAT was at 85 F, even with my makeshift duct tape on the grill winter front until I can fabricate my sheet metal this week for a more permanent front. Just looking to see if this thing will work with my truck is all. Maybe 99's ECMs don't keep up with the data demands from the scan gauge as well as later models.Also, as a side note concerning the mpg issue, my gph is way down there in the 2-3 gph range, which is totally incorrect. Any thoughts appreciated, especially anyone running one of these ScanGauges on a 99 stock motor.\ThanksOne more thing, my TPS on the scangauge is reading anywhere from 12-18 cruising between 65-75mph, does this number seem correct? Could it be my APPS is out or range and might need recalibrated?Also question Mike - is there a reason you used the gasoline horsepower x-gauge command v. the diesel? Maybe that's why my HP is not correct.

Disregard... found the entire thread on yours and others' winter fronts. Good stuff...

Thanks for the info - I'll play around a little tomorrow with making a today for my drive to work tomorrow night. My biggest problem right now is wanting to fill up after every 120mi round trip to work, I guess I have to let it get on down to 1/4 tank like the manual says. On a positive note, doing a hand calc of mpg last night, having been using some 2 cycle, I got a 19.3 average, using 2 trips to work and back (120 mi), one at 75mph, and the second at 65. My goal is to get a 20 - we'll see. I'm keeping more data tracked on my iphone and paper than I ever did as a blackhawk helicopter maintenance test pilot. Something to do on my long haul to work and back, I guess. Thanks again.

Don't know if this will help, but when my left front bearing was going out, it was rubbing on the ABS sensor causing the ABS and Brake light to flash intermittently, especially above 55-60mpg.

How did you make the template for cutting your air blocker in your grill? I plan on trying to use some leftover laminate I have, but want to cut a template for it first so I don't waste too much of it. Also, how did you secure the metal road sign pieces to the grill. It looks like the pieces are on the front of the grill. Is this correct? Thanks.

I cleaned my IAT Sensor this morning, wasn't that dirty, and plan on doing the MAP tomorrow morning (didn't have a 1 1/16 socket). This morning I checked the resistance on the IAT sensor, at approx. 43-47 degree F. I was getting 28.60 Ohms. Interpolating from Mopar1973Man's supplied temp/ohm chart, this sounds about correct. Anyone think that's incorrect?I also put a temporary air blocker in behind the grill this afternoon, as I noticed yesterday while driving to work 60 miles at a temp of around 27 F. that my IAT from my scan gauge was around 73 F. which seems a bit low. From the reading I've done here, the higher the better (up to a certain point I'm sure). Tonight went on a little test drive at an ambient OAT (outside air temp) of around 34 F. and my IAT is around 85 F. Does this seem right, or should I still see a higher IAT, i.e. is it possible my IAT needs replaced? I'm pretty sure the IAT gauge on the scangaugeII is correct, as this morning with the truck cold it pretty much matched the ambient temp outside. Any thoughts/suggestions? Thanks.

Well, it would have helped had I read the manual completely, than I wouldn't have been so lost with this. Created a few x-gauges for average, distance, fuel used, and total cost, just went on a quick ride to check them out. Thanks for steering me in the right direction. Now I have couple other questions for you:My average seems a bit high 27.8 so far, and I still see the dynamic mpg jumping all over the place. Should I build an x-gauge for today's mpg, rather than use the dynamic mpg already supplied, or rather than use the tank average? What would be best? Thanks.

Thanks much for the explanation; it's all starting to make a little more sense now. If have time before work I'll set up an x-gauge for the avg and tfc, and see how it goes. I hate to pass up on paying my buddy from work $100 for this as he's only had it a few months, got a new car, and doesn't use it anymore (30 mpg on his outback). Again, thanks, and look forward to participating here on your forum.

Anyone out there that can help a brother out with this? Just trying to determine if this thing is working correctly is all. Thanks.

Very nice looking install, clean, professional, I don't suppose you wrote down any of the dimensions for the bracket you fabricated for us non-welding types that would have to take it somewhere for someone to weld? Or will it be pretty much self-explanatory. Just planning ahead, thanks, and again, nice install and pics.

I think my question might be confusing a little - basically I want to see the average mpg gauge (avg mpg) and the total fuel cost gauge (TFC) but cannot find them when I press the gauge button and cycle through the different gauges. The only way I can see the AVG MPG is to get at it through the trip functions. I filled up last night, completed the second fill up function, and it did seem to read/calculate my correct fuel addition fairly close. Any help is always appreciated.Thanks.

Thanks for the reply - I cannot seem to get to the avg gauge, the pic in the SGII quick start guide shows the avg mpg stacked on top of the mpg gauge, but no matter which order I put the gauges in, I cannot see/find an avg mpg gauge or a total fuel cost gauge/tfc. I'm sure there's something simple, and was hoping to get it working before my 60 mile drive to work tonight. Thanks again, and look forward to taking part in discussions here.

Hello, just joined the other day but member of CF also; my first post here.A buddy of mine at work is offering to sell me his SGII for $100. So far most of the functions seem to work. I have all the correct engine and fuel data, etc. set up. Completed 2 fillups. The SGII website recommends to set up the gauges to read the following for monitoring fuel economy: XX.XAVG X.X GPHXX.XMPG X.XX TFCI cannot seem to get to the avg mpg or tfc gauge while in the gauge section...Also, when in the mpg gauge, I just watched the MPG jump around from 16 on up to 350 mpg (I wish). I double checked my settings to verify, all was correct. Is the SGII itself faulty, or am I doing something wrong?Should I reset all the settings to default and start from scratch, or should I just do something different than what I'm doing now? Thanks in advance for any tips/help, etc.WatieI just saw need to edit my sig for my truck, but for time being it's a1999 2500 4X4, all stock, 2nd lift/VP44, 265 75/16 tiresQuad Cab, Short Wheel Base