Kotta390

Thanks! I just bought a new cobalt bit. Examples would be?

What does the UDC do? Also I think the rv275s are the way to go IMO for my setup. I am not looking to get insane amount of power but a little increase wouldn't hurt and the fact if the fuel mileage goes up is the bang for buck I am looking for. Right now with the Smarty I have been averaging 17mpg 75city/25hwy driving. It has increased it almost 2mpg more than factory. Then again that's also with the AD150 before i hand calculated fuel mileage. I am sure that helped some by itself. I am going to attempt to hook up my EGT after work. Anyone know about how long it will take? I already have the gauge hooked up and wired, I just need to take the rest of it and wire up to hot and ground and then drill my manifold and insert probe.

Same here. Straight pipe with the BHAF works well and the turbo whistle is loud but I try to keep the whistle down for better MPG lol. That and how much i stab the throttle in low rpms. I honestly feel like the truck is a bit loud and a resonator is in my future

Supposedly in the REVO tunes, there is a way to adjust the lower the fueling process on lighter throttle, I just haven't messed with it yet. I really need to go and try out some of the settings. So the rv275s give about a 40hp increase while giving better fuel mileage. Are there any other injectors that do the same with more performance?

I want to keep the smarty because of the serious low end gains and the mileage went up as well. I just want to know what the best bang for buck is on injectors and I just keep hearing about how great the rv275s are. We spoke on the phone awhile back and you have a set yourself and seem to be happy with them. I do like extra power but only if the increase in fuel mileage is also a result. I do need to tweak the smarty though. It is set on 5 and I love it except when I need to stab the throttle quickly to go and see lots of black smoke (fuel wasted) in the process in my acceleration.

So I've been searching the forums and ran into a few topics about some aftermarket injectors will not only give more hp/tq but also increase fuel mileage. One of these injectors are the rv275s. I see they are good for about +40hp/80tq over stock injectors and somehow get better fuel mileage? Are there any other injectors that do the same and how does an injector which can supply more fuel give better MPGs? I am a little lost on the theory of this. If the engine requires "X" amount of fuel at the rpm and load..how does a different injector give better fuel mileage when it is producing the same "X"?? Is it the spray pattern? School me please

Mechanical and I'm running a needle valve. Now that it is warming up it is a rock solid 18psi and doesn't fluctuate at all. The buzzing was not fuel I can promise you. I could feel it in the steering and the brakes I thought lol.

I will look into this. The only things I need to remove are the battery, turbo, intake and downpipe for the most part.

Currently I am running a BG stop leak. It has slowed the leak down from 1.25 gallons a day to a half a gallon a week! It's temporary I know but for the mean time I just don't have the funds to even consider a block or engine swap.

I notice the same thing with my fuel pressures!! That's weird they do that but it makes me feel better that I am not the only one with this issue. As long as it stays above a constant 14psi, I'm Ok. As far as the power steering fluid, what kind should I get? I have no problems with steering but sometimes my brakes are extremely touchy in the morning or until I get some heat into the brakes...they tend to lock up quickly but after a little driving all seems well.

Edit* Double Post

No leaks and also heater grid has been disconnected. I can change the fluid if that will help but the fuel pressure thing is mind blowing.

It has been awhile since I posted about my cracked 55 block. I have that band-aided for now and it mostly holding up. I have however been experiencing some strange phenomenon with my fuel pressure. When It is cold outside <35F, my fuel pressure is around 15.5-16.5psi at idle and when I drive the truck a good ways, it will creep up to around 17-18 at idle which is fine. The other end of the spectrum is when it is warm outside. >75F, the fuel pressure will be around 18.5-20psi at idle but never really goes above that. I have the AD150 and full big line kit along with a needle valve. Sometimes the fuel pressure fluctuates a little but it is slow and the gauge doesn't go crazy, it is a very clear and slow movement. Any ideas? Second issue is when it is less than <35F, the hydraulics or what sounds like my power steering and braking system has a loud buzzing noise when first cranked up and the warmer the weather gets or the harder i drive it in the cold, the buzzing goes away and I never notice it anymore. The breaks and power steering are not affected by any means but it is loud on cold mornings. What is going on here? Thanks for all of your help.

Thanks guys for all the advice. I pray something will band aid for now until I can get a replacement block

Thats true.

Me too, I am feeling like I am going to have a nervous break down here lately with all the bills stacking against me and now this....Makes me want to say **** everything and just move to a deserted island.

Where do I start looking for a used block then? Which blocks do I need to get that will not run into this problem again?

I can't tell exactly either. It does look like someone has messed with it before. Hard to tell but I am thinking about getting some oven cleaner and trying to clean the block off and seeing if I can find out what has been done to this thing. I am pretty sure the last guy that sold me this truck knew about this ****...If I find him again I will break his ******* nose.

I am looking for a band aid at this point. I just can't afford to buy another block unless I can get one for super cheap. Either way I will still need a new bearing and ring kit with all new gaskets. Trust me I am looking into Liquid Glass right now and if it seals up for a little while then I will go ahead and continue on saving money for a block or sell the truck as is.

This is my best chance, or I am selling the truck as is. I just cannot put the amount of money in this truck for what I have to offer. I am aboput to throw the **** up...

55 Block

Once you remove the manifold, turbo, exhaust and the intake, it looks like it's pretty easy to get in there and weld. Surely the block can't be doomed over this!!

You have to be shitting me?? The block is trashed?? There is no way to weld this up somehow or any fix?? I cant believe this is it I literally do not have the money or time to fix this by replacing the engine....

I had it for a couple months. I don't understand I thought the 53 blocks did this?? I have a 55 block though...What do I do to fix this?

Holy **** bad news!!!! I went home to look for leaks and couldn't find any in the traditional spots, so I started looking elsewhere. When I had the pressure gauge at 16psi it held there for over 5 minutes before it showed any signs of leakdown. Well I found where it was leaking and I think it has been leaking there for quite some time... This is before I topped it off and had the pressure gauge on for about 10 minutes. After I topped it off again with over a half of a gallon of antifreeze and drove home on a 15 minute drive, I popped the hood again and found this... Now after trying to find the casting number of the block, I swear it has a 55 block, so I dont know how this block is cracked or what caused it??